gabiot

Indeed, if what we see is really a rock slide, it's really hudge!!! from the map it should be approx 500m long... I can't believe such an enormous rockfall happened. But I can't either see what else it could be??? It's sure it wasn't here 2 years ago as I was in view several days of Hubert Glacier. sharp eye fairweather!

Hello Xtiesue, I usually use for glacier travel a 150ft half double rope (that is half a classical rappel), but maybe a shorter one could be used by experienced climbers (I would say 90 ft would be a minimum for a two person party, you need to keep free rope for crevass rescue, so it leaves only 30 ft between the two climbers, a little short maybe). That 90 ft rope would give a 45ft rappel that is sufficient for the rappel I mentionned on the East side ("only a short rappel"). on the NW side there's also another rocks with slings, from which you can do a longer rappel. There a 150ft rope (giving a 75ft rappel) would be a little short I think, but probably give access to easy down climbing... Last time I used it, there was another roped party on the summit, and we used both our ropes for a longer rappel to the snow. So as I said, you don't really need extra gear, only glacier travel gear. Hope it helps, and hope you'll have a nice climb! Post about the glacier condition when you'll be back... Best regards, Laurent.

Hello John, Nice report, looks like you had some fun there!

There are many ways to climb the summit block. Most experienced climbers do not need even to rope up, as you can find rather easy way up, but rope is advisable, at least for the descent which is nice in rappel. The easiest part to climb up I found (I may have overlook something else)is by going up the steep snow (coming from five fingers), and traversing the east side to the south, slighly ascending (a rather obvious ledge). Then there is an easy ascent leading to a big flake (maybe 3m high?, short at least), and it's the only real climbing. I did use simply a sling for protection here (not a great pro, but it was more psychological, the move is easy). You'll arrive on a small ledge where a big rock is slinged for rappeling down the way back (only a short rappel, no need for a long rope). From there you are almost at the summit, climbing is done. I think this is the end of the route 1 described in the "Climbers guide to the Olympic Mountains" (the flake being "climbing a crack on the E side"). So you don't need more than your glacier travel stuff. Of course you can climb a more difficult area, but I can't tell what would be really advisable. Rock is not very good, but it could be worst... I Hope you'll have a nice weather! Laurent

hello, it is true that the access to Cream lake has no trail, and might goes below the tree line, but then that's part of the fun! It is a "historical" part of the Bailey range, and very typical of the Olympics. So I would not declare it unpleasant at all. apart from that, about the traverse of Olympus connected to the Bailey range, there is a weight issue for the technical gear: you absolutly need it: (ice axe, crampoon, rope, harness, rescue gear for glacier travel), but it will depends on how much you can carry. If you think you'll have a too heavy backpack, then goes for light equipment: you can save a lot of weight with light ice axe (air tech racing grivel), crampoon (camp XLC470), rope(light 50m 8.1mm rope for two, a 30m could go maybe), harness (XLH130 camp), and the usual backpacking light stuff. But usual equipment works also, it really depends on one capacity to carry a big backpack...

Hello, I did it a few times, and would be glad to give you some informations. What do you mean by 4/5 days? on the bailey range only? including on trail approach/exit? including transportation to trailhead? count between 2 or 4 days between Cat Walk and Queets Basin, depending on how fast you go, and how precise you are at route finding (fog might be more challenging). Then half a day to go down the Elwah snow finger (again, route finding and bushwaking might delay you). But don't forget to add the on trail stuff! (I can't calculate it because there's so much possibilities). You can make it shorter using the Dodger Point entrance (or exit..). For alpine gear, I would recommend an ice axe and it's use knowledge for the crossing between Mount Ferry and Queets basin, and the Elwah snow finger of course (can be tricky depending on the snow condition). Crampoons are advisable too, but if you are very experienced at snow travel, and feel you could do without, it's possible, but again you should be very used to travel on steep hard snow with a big backpack without crampons. (I don't know your mountaineering skills, so...) No rope needed. Compass, maps, and you can add an altimeter, in case of fog it could be helpful. Be prepared to some delay in case of route finding problem (fog, etc...) (extra day of food) For the rest the usual cross country backpacking gear, as light as possible. don't hesitate to ask if you need more details. Best regards, Laurent.

I saw the picture you posted: was it taken up on the Kilkelly creek and is the visible peak Braggi? (the little col look like the one just east of Braggi. I remenber following a Mountain Goat up to that col, and looking down to see it go down in the direction you probably took the picture.). How much time from the trail head is the place where you took the picture? (a day and a half?) Laurent

Thanks for the great post, Tht's one of the traverse I'd be happy to do!

Little late response, but if you are still interrested in the subject, PM me Laurent.

Hello Blackej, Nice project you have here! I would not be able to give you advice for the east part of your trip, but if you plan to summit your peak list, it will be something. For the west part, if you like glacier travel, I would suggest a route I've taken with a good friend (and exellent mountain man) two years ago (only we did it the other way round: w to E): roughly: from the bailey range (queets basin), do the well known olympus traverse, when arrived at west peak, find a route down to Hubert glacier, then up the ridge connecting the Valhallas, then from the Valhallas drop down to the south fork hoh river. That with the Bailey range is one of the longuest above the tree traverse of the olympics, (with a nice forest traverse too!) but for very experienced personn only (you may be so?). Avoid it if you don't feel totally confident with route finding and physical hardship. that traverse (with the bailey range added) is the best I ever had there. Best regards, Laurent.