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drater

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    Omak Rocks Access Update

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    I feel as if I should give a heads-up and inform all those interested in the current access situation with the Omak Rocks. If you are unaware of the historical access problems refer to the following link: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/04/issue1.html

     

    New local climber Rich and I had heard through the grapevine that the individual who had caused the most recent access anguish had moved out of the area. We were told by (names withheld to protect the innocent) both an Omak climber and a landowner near the rocks that climbing was once again possible on both the Hide-Out and Reservation Rocks. Eager to show Rich some beautiful gems of Okanogan gneiss we went out yesterday. At first it looked like the only access problems would be similar to what I’ve experienced during the last 20 years: a gardener snake on a ledge and swifts flying in and out of a jam crack. But while finishing pitch number 4 on the Hide-Out we noticed a resident of a trailer below driving about in his pick-up. By the way the individual was driving back and forth, first to the old parking spot, then to where we discretely parked Rich’s car, then up to the above landowner’s place, then back to the trailer to watch us no doubt through some sort of scope, we could tell that access was once again a question.

     

    Both being trained in quick assessments of human behavior we agreed that we should change our plans of going next to Reservation Rock (closer and more in the resident’s face) and instead we did the long hike to the White Block where to our understanding access is well established and permitted. And certainly the area is more remote.

     

    After spending a beautiful afternoon, we hiked out laughing at the possible confrontation scenarios we were anticipating: would there be a “car chase” when the above resident chased us down? Where guns going to be involved? Was there going to be a road block or simply a note on Rich’s car? To our surprise when we go to the car there was a Tribal Police rig parked there. Here we met a friendly enough officer who then called in another officer. This officer informs us that they have been having problems with climbers going out to the cliffs this spring. We offered the information that we had spent most of the day up at the White Block where we understood climbing was permitted. The second officer then dropped a bomb shell when he stated that all climbing on any type of land falling under the Colville Indian reservation jurisdiction was forbidden. When asked why he stated that it was a liability issue. If they had to call 911 it would take to long to get to the climber. I kindly pointed out that in the mountains the same problem exists but the National Park Service doesn’t seem to have a liability problem. He stated that Reservation land was different. That it is.

     

    After taking our names and numbers for some sort of “future action by his Sergeant” we were permitted to leave. We expressed apologize for wasting their time and our humble respect for Native American land and the wishes of the Native American people.

     

    So we left, the afternoon glow on those beautiful golden rocks disappearing as another chapter in the access struggle closed.

     

     

    Shame they didn't give you a piss test....

     

     

    Seriously tho, that sux. Too bad there's no good non rez rock around.

    Best rock climber

    in Spray

    Posted

    totally makes me look like some kind of mom from the 70's or some shit.

     

    No shit, this one time (not at band camp!), when I was 19, I was rolling thru Ewash in my pimpin 86 Dodge Van, all styled out for dirtbagging in and I stopped in Wilbur for a chocolate shake at this one fast food place that made these killer chocolate shakes, and even tho the sign on the door said "No shirt, No shoes, No Service" I went in shirtless and barefoot cuz I was ripped and chicks dug my 8 pack, anyway this kinda fugly soccer mom working the cash register says, "you can't come in here dressed like that" and I'm all, "wtf, i don't want to walk back across the parking lot barefoot, i just want a chocolate shake to go" and the hot girl working the fryolater says, "i'll bring it out to you" so i pay and leave and she comes out and gives me my shake and says "i have an hour lunch break in 15 minutes" so i hang out and we drive up behind the golf course on some road she knows and i hit in the back of my van on the bed and she never took off her visor or her skirt, which were both part of her uniform.

     

    then i dropped her off and went boldering.

    Best rock climber

    in Spray

    Posted

    Hey, visors are set to make a big comeback. You should get on the front end of the curve and start printing some up with clever lingo for the youth.

     

    Just looked em up, I can get blank 12 packs for $10...want one with a NAMBLA logo?

    Best rock climber

    in Spray

    Posted

     

    Holy shit.....your kidding right? 5.9 used to be the limit in the grading scale.....who knew?

     

     

    Generally people who think old school 10b's should be 11a don't know this.

     

    FYI.

    Best rock climber

    in Spray

    Posted

    The crux is the 15' boulder problem to get established in the crack

     

    Super soft V1 to old school 5.9 thuggery.

     

     

    <3 that route!

     

     

     

    Kev, 5.9 used to be the upper limit of the grading scale, so 10c had to be burl to not get called 5.9. That's why today's gym faags think it's 11a.

    Eastern Washington Boldering

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted · Edited by Blowboarder

    Marty-two other thoughts:

     

    Evans Quarry?

     

     

    Arden beta'd me up on some limestone bolders N or colville that didn't look worth hiking up to after three days off pulling down at the circuit. Above this was a pimp looking wall, which I took no photo's even tho my camera was in the car, with some nice overhangs. Swede's something or other....two canyons away on the drive in and back I scoped, back in the distance, a rather large looking wall. Large like that wall in that hanging valley behind Northport. Dead Medicine looked like the access. Checked em out?

     

    Third thought, how's the kid?

    Eastern Washington Boldering

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    Any of those other drainages up there hold any promise?

     

     

    I've scoped teh rock in C-Fork from the river, it just might be good. And it just might be the suxxor. It does not, definately, have any tufa's. There are, definately, a couple of cool looking limestone towers. Think monkey face, only not udder choss.

    Eastern Washington Boldering

    in Central/Eastern Washington

    Posted

    Maybe by Clark Fork?

     

    We both f'n wish!

     

    Aus10.

     

    I'm looking for this a few river valley's east...

     

    I'm gonna go hike the creekbeds that feed the northern Pend Oreille, like the one that dumps over Z Canyon Falls. That hit may be too hard to tufa out but the inside corners of creeks and drainages in karst formations are usually da bomb.

     

    At least that's what I keep telling myself.

     

     

    Slayer

    in Spray

    Posted

    Cowboys From Hell

     

    CFH is good but does not compare with Vulgar Display of Power. IMO

     

     

    Cowboys From Hell

    Primal Concrete Sledge

    Psycho Holiday

    Heresy

    Cemetary Gates

    Domination

    Shattered

    Clash With Reality

    Medicine Man

    Message In Blood

     

     

    Vulgar is fucking rad too. Maybe Exhibit 1 and 1a in this instance.

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