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drater

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Posts posted by drater

  1. I'm not following you here, Blowboarder. Was there a guidebook to climbs on the Reservation - or was the idea that one was about to be published a contributory factor in the Tribe's decision or that of any of the individual landowners involved? I know the climbers over there were largely secretive for twenty years or more and some feared what might come with publicity.

     

    I'll let Sargent_Rock answer this if he will, I was 15 when some of this shit went down and probably don't have all the story straight. I was heckling one person in particular who made climbing at Omak a much more public endeavor. And yes, there was a guide published.

  2. I don't have a copy anymore either but Thad's new guidebook to North Idaho is supposedly hitting the shelves end of June, looked for a link but couldn't find one, I'll look in the magazine article (non-climbing rag) I read and post up any info on it.

     

     

    F'n guidebooks, routes are going to go from completely empty to seeing a few climbers a month....how will I cope?

  3. That'd be granite point, out across the lake from Talache. You need a good boat (4-5 foot waves not uncommon out there, next point from granite is aptly named windy point) since the feds decided to rake up the high drive for "caribou habitat protection". Mostly single pitch stuff, lots of loose rock, doesn't see much traffic from what I can tell, would be really good if it cleaned up, there's a super classic crack I can't remember the name of worth doing.

     

    Around the corner in the Green Monarchs there is 8-10 pitch potential on quartzite ridges, I think the right side (slabby) would be uber easy, like 5.2 hiking and the left side (super steep) would need to be bolt protected and probably in the 5.13 range. I'm sure you could find something in between, possibly right on the arete.

     

    The fact that I'm sharing this info signals the end of my era as an intrepid first ascentionist.

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