drater
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Posts posted by drater
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Stone Hill on the eastern shore of Lake Koocanusa (NW Montanta) has an unbelievable amount of high quality quartzite (bullet hard, edgy climbing). Grades range from 5.5 to 5.13+ (don't know if it's been sent or is still project). Mostly single pitch, trad & sport climbing, although the hardness of rock makes drilling holes a bitch, so the sport climbs definately feel "sporty"! Also, bouldering everywhere. Killer camping and awesome windsurfing/kiteboarding on the lake.
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You live in a small town in North Central Washington and...
-You don't tell anyone about your"secret" crag cause you don't want anyone sending the prime lines while you try to get strong
-You have your own guidebook w/ ratings for all the different mountain routes over the border with a backpack full of "cabbage"
-The thought of anyone bolting at your crag sends you into an anxiety attack
-You get bit by a snake while bouldering 5.3
-You have the DNR called on you (4 times) while "prescribe burning" your private crag to open up new routes
-You and your 4 climbing buddies recycle girlfriends often
-You spend your winters in the tropics pulling down on overrated limestone sport climbs trying to bag chicks that don't speak english
-You spend two years trying to link 5 overhanging traverses into a 165' super steep pump fest, then finally send it after giving up on it
-You have gotten in a fistfight with someone you caught chipping holds on a boulder problem
-You're still reading this
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sorry for my outlash.
that boulder is not in E wash, it is in Bishop, CA
Distel32
Yeah, had my feelings that was the case but wanted to see where you were headed with it. Still had a lot less chalk on it last time I saw it (1995?). If you want to check out some comparable bouldering that is in E. WA, get a hold of me sometime.
Don't apologize for outlash, it's good to vent!
Blowboarder
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Just wondering if anybody has any info about boulders & routes at Manresa Grotto? It is an area in the Pend Oreille River Valley just north of Cusick. I've been bouldering there for a few years now & was wondering about history, grades, guidebooks, ect. Also, found a few bolted climbs, bolts look kinda sketchy, like they have been there for quite some time. Anybody got info?
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I'm sorry to inform you that the boulder boy cannot be wanked, have you seen this yet blowjobgiver??? It's in the omak region, one of the best boulders in E WA for sure
Distel32, yo bro, check your spelling there. It's a kiteboarding reference, not some homoerotic misnomer practiced by sailers and catholic priests.
Have seen that boulder before, looked a little different with all that white stuff on there. Agree that it is one of best boulders in E. Wash area. However, can think of quite a few comparable quality. Without naming names or giving directions, what do you think 5 best boulders in E. Wash (or more specifically, the 'Nogan) are. Or maybe 5 best boulder problems? Or maybe nothing.Do cliff bands count too?
I was wondering who Vance was, as I thought that was photo of me. Glad to see there are other ugly, skinny legged, weak-sister-boulder-lovin' fiends out there.
Enervate, don't hate.
Blowboarder
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Who's Vance? Where is that? Do all those holds fall off when you pull on them?
wtf?
wtf? what? Just wanking you? I'm very aware of location, just wondering who vance was, as I thought photo was of someone else.
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Who's Vance? Where is that? Do all those holds fall off when you pull on them?
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Move along. Nothing to see here...]
Who's that gaper? That place looks like it sucks!!!
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Matt, no one in the 'nogan bolted a sport area & tried to keep it secret. The guy that came along after the initial development (trad climbs & hard sport climbs) wanted to be a"rock star" and bolted up a shitload of routes. This pissed off the Tribe who owned the land & have a lot more respect for nature than this jerkoff. All so he could write a guidebook with a bunch of FA in front of his name.
The Tribe consequently closed the area to climbing. Sincere efforts over the years by dedicated locals have improved relations. So it's not a matter of a private crag, but a tenous access issue formed through friendship. Locals fear noteriety will result in visitors in-sensitive or unaware of situation whose behavior might jeopardize present access.
As for the posts regarding private bouldering, once again the issue isn't about privatizing it but the fact is the semi-arid desert ecosystem it sits in is extremely fragile & beautiful. Use by a handful of locals over the last 20+ years has led to erosion problems. I can only imagine what a couple hundred more climbing days a summer would do.
This being said, if you get in touch with the owners, I'm sure they would love to show you their playground.
And whoever said the bouldering wasn't that great, they must not enjoy V5's & up.
Just respect the property & wishes of property owners in the 'nogan, there are loads of great spots around.
And for those people talking about the slabs N of Omak, large loose rock abounds. Helmets for sure, consider cleaning on rappell first, then let your buddy go for the onsight.
And snakes, lots of snakes.
That's it, no more beta
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Yeah, & it''s cool to kiss your cousin + lots of budweiser!
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Some teenage kid named Jonnie from Spokane sent the sitdown start to Wajigigi and called it V10 or V11 in the Okanogan in '99 or '00. He had established numerous other hard boulder problems in the Minnehaha area around that time.
Lots of other sick, hard stuff being sent in the 'nogan for years. Definately a slew of problems V-Hard up there.
Marty, I'm sure Fred Nicole and other short-rock hardmen have their own opinion on "bouldering only training for climbing"
Best Bouldering in Washington State?
in Climber's Board
Posted
I remember reading John Sherman's book, Stone Crusade, and in it he stated "the best bouldering in Washington lies far to the East in Spokane at Minnehaha." This statement always pissed me off because I knew of a dozen spots better than Minny. I wanted to tell him as much, but knew the fukkker would probably put it in a guidebook if he knew.
So, I'm wondering, what does the forum think the best bouldering in Washington State is? Don't feel obligated to give up all the beta if it's a secret spot, just wondering what peoples feeling on the subject is.
Also, does anyone know what the hardest boulder problem in WA is?
Locations, rock type, FA's, ect would be appreciated.
Blowboarder