esugi

Trip: Mount Stuart - SGC Date: 5/29/2007 Trip Report: My partner and I did SGC yesterday. We hiked in Sunday and left camp at 3:00am. Complete report to come tomorrow but just wanted to let you all know that there was plenty of ice in the couloir (making for some fun climbing of moderate difficulty!) We did get lost on the summit pyramid though. Eventually needing 9 pitches and losing some 3-4 hours of valuable time and furstration factor . We didn't get back to camp until 5pm or so (but had fun glissading the lower part of Sherpa Glacier). Pictures coming too. So here's couple questions on approach. Once crossing the river (from the standard trail) and onto the climbing trail, do you drop down towards the other stream or do you continue contouring around prominant peak and through the boulder field? We found cairns through the boulder so that's the way we went on approach. But hiking out, we ended up lower and practically hiking next to the creek before cutting up and finding the crossing??? We didn't even hit the boulder field hiking out.

""Not sure if I would recommend SGC to anyone as a solo *unless* they have done the route before... way easy to get off route on the ridge"" Yes, I can attest to getting off route on the ridge. We did and ended up with 9 pitches (instead of 6 per Nelson's book) and lost valuable time.

Colin, great pics ... appreciate you sharing your story with the rest of us. Will never forget that adventurous Greyhound Bus ride back from PDX. Eiji

4/9/07 - Lost Camp tiburon ice tool on the descent somewhere between Colchuck Lake and the trail head. Did not realize until I sat down at the TH for last rest before powering down the Mountaineers road to the car. Left some information on the registrar at the TH. If someone finds it, could you kindly carry it out and contact me? thanks a bunch. Eiji (206-226-6900)

Great job on your TR. Awesome pics of you guys climbing. Maybe you were the ones we saw from the road on Saturday? If anyone wants to climb Hubba Hubba, seems like time is now with low avalanche danger.

Great job on your TR. Awesome pics of you guys climbing. Maybe you were the ones we saw from the road on Saturday? If anyone wants to climb Hubba Hubba, seems like time is now with low avalanche danger.

Trip: Dragontail Peak - Triple Couloirs Date: 2/5/2007 Trip Report: Not sure if this is helpful but since we did all the work hiking into Colchuck Lake, I thought I'd post it anyway. Kevin and I hiked all the way into Colchuck Lake (actually, spent the first night just past the junction) to find out that Triple Couloirs looked sketchy. The below photo (sorry its not that good since it was just barely daylight) shows the "ice runnels" to be very thin. Sunday turned out to be very frustrating as we were post-holing all over the place. Gear Notes: Snowshoes would have been helpful. Stashed skiis near the trail head and enjoyed the ride down (though I was snow-plowing a lot for fear of going off the side of the road - little icy) Approach Notes: Mountaineers Creek Road is actually very good. Little icy to ski but I managed to snow-plow a lot. The trail itself up to the first river crossing was packed down pretty good. Beyond the second river crossing (past the junction), we were post-holing all over. But again, the temps were very high and FL was 8000 ft or so Saturday evening into Sunday.

Kevin and I went to check out the Triple Couloirs this past weekend. While walking up the Mountaineers Creek Road, we noticed that Hubba Hubba seems to be in form. Another pic of Hubba Hubba At about 1.5 miles up the Mountaineers Creek road, the more ice on the other side of the hill comes into view. Don't know the names but some look very spicy. We saw couple climbers at the base of this one.

Hey, if its on the Kautz route...dropped from bivy site around 11K underneath the Kautz icefall, its my friend Rod's. We dropped it on 8/6 as we were milling around to get prepared for our summit climb. Around 1am. Should be in a silver stuff sack. Perfectly round as it rolled long ways down. Please get in touch with me eiji_sugi@tmo.blackberry.net (253) 315-4287. Rod can probably tell you exactly the type of sleeping bag. I'm thinking it was MH or NF. He'll be psyched to find out someone picked it up as he was really bumbed that morning. Thanks, Eiji

Roger, congrats on a good climb. I climbed the Kautz a weeke before you and did the carry-over as well. It's a fun route isn't it? How are you and Bill doing? I returned from Bolivia in early July but have not done much climbing since (one failed attempt on Adams Glacier and successful climb of Kautz). Looking to go out this weekend though... Bill, drop me a line and let me know what you have been up to. eiji_sugi@tmo.blackberry.net

Great pics...I just came back from spending 3 weeks in Bolivia. Climbed Piramide Blanca, Pequeno, Huayna, and Illimani. All great climbs. I agree with you dalius, Bolivia is a great place to climb. Blue skies every day!! Very stable weather during their "winter" climbing season. On Illimani, we had the entire mountain to ourselves on summit day! It was fantastic. Bolivia is cheap and plenty of things to do. Only thing is its pretty cold around the city and colder in the mountains.

Roger, great climbing with you, Bill, and Laura. We will have to climb together again soon. Something in Washington this time. Possibly Rainier first weekend in June? Hope your "boys" are doing good. I ended up going up to Baker (instead of Rainier). We tried one day ascent (+2 extra miles just to get to the summer TH) of Northridge but due to time and route finding problems, we bailed at about 10K. Oh well, it was still fun....especially 1 day after doing Leuthold with you guys. Tired today..... Later

Doing the route tomorrow. Any recent beta? I'll post a TR upon my return.

Adam, sent you e-mail. Let's talk

No offense taken. Yea, Chalcataya is not a climb but its well worth location for accli. We'll go up to the top nontheless. If we had more time, we would climb other routes in the Condoriri but we only have 21 days. So, for our first time there, we chose the typical "most climbed mountain by guide service" mountains. It'll be a great experience just to go into the Condoriri...hear its an awesome place. Thanks for the pics. If you have any more, I'd sure like to see them. Did you do H.P.? If so, what route? We're thinking of via de los franceses. Any idea what I can expect? Man, so many questions...... Thanks again.

Looking for 1 or 2 people to join Jeff and I on a summer trip to Bolivia. We are going for 21 days 6/16 - 7/6. Our objectives inclue Chalcataya, Pequeno Alpamayo, Huayna Potosi (via de los Franceses), Illimani (normal route), and Sajama. Plus tourist stuff too. Can't go for 21 days? Open to joining us for 10 days (leave after Potosi) or 16 days (leave after Illimani). Previous glacier experience is a must and previous high altitude experience a plus (Mexico, Ecuador, etc...). PM me or call 253-315-4287. Alternatively, e-mail: eiji_sugi@tmo.blackberry.net Thanks, Eiji

Did you ever get out to Colchuck or Stuart this past weekend? I think the board would welcome any beta on the approach/climb. Thanks

Is the mountaineers creek road drivable right now or is the road still closed from icicle creek?

Just sent you PM eiji_sugi@tmo.blackberry.net

I second that GPS coordinates for the couloir. I too have not done it but would like to soon. It would be reassuring, if you have it.

Did you ever get out on Leuthold? If not, I'm looking to do that as one day ascent (leave around midnight?) this Sunday, if the weather conditions don't turn too radical from now until then. Looks like chances of snow for next few days but tapering off Friday and possibly partly sunny on Saturday and Sunday??? Any interest? I have good ice/snow experience. Eiji

Sorry I didn't get your guys' post until now. Due to my dinner plans tomorrow night with my wife, I'm electing to keep it a two person team. Let's hook up for something else later.

sent you IM. Yes, definately car to car. Get early start as possible since I have to be back in town by 5pm (so back to the car no later then 4pm).

My plans fell through this Monday. Looking for someone to climb NF or NE Buttress of Chair. I have ice gear but limited rock. Anyone?

Thanks for the passport info and I found a partner for the weekend. With latest information on hand, we'll probably hit Junkyard and Grotto Falls in Canmore, maybe run over to Cascade Falls if we have time. Any latest beta on Cascade Falls?