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esugi

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Everything posted by esugi

  1. So the "ankle buster" was planning on heading down that Monday evening? Lukic and I ended up calling 911 and Bellingham SAR to let them know of the situation. I figured they would not get any rescue going till Tuesday morning... So that raises a question, rescue via helicopter is FREE? Out of about 10 people helping this guy that day, nobody knew exactly what the financial remification would be of a rescue/ride out. Especially for a Canadian without US insurance.
  2. Beautiful Day...8 hours camp to summit. On the way down, we ran into a rescue in progress...a guy broke his ankle on a glissading accident somewhere on the C-D route. Helped drag him down to camp. Hope they made it out ok.... Coleman Glacier conditions Lukic looking confident Me leading P1 Above crux ice...on ridge Looking down on the ridge...second team coming up Slogging on the ridge....very tiring! Coming up to the huge body of seracs...our route through the "secret passage" Me approaching the "secret passage" Looking across the summit plateau...second team almost topping out. Beautiful Shuksan from the summit Cheasy (sp?) summit shot.
  3. Trip: Mt. Baker - North Ridge Date: 8/4/2008 Trip Report: Looking to do some alpine ice, I headed back to Baker again to do the North Ridge for the second time. This time with Lukic. We camped on the bare rock area just above and to the climbers left above "Hogsback". Left camp at 4:30am and navigated through the Coleman without too much difficulty. There's a good boot track. Glacier is still in good shape. Direct approach (right entrance gully approach) below the icefall did not look good. There's two gaping bergschrunds to contend with at the bottom and also bare rock that spans the entire slope at the top of this steep gully. So, we contoured around the base of the ridge proper (climbers left) and used the left ramp approach. Couple of steep slopes to get onto the ridge proper but they were nice neve ice. The actual crux was in good shape though it was becoming little mushy once the sun hit....and higher up, we used the "secret passage" through the huge body of seracs to gain the summit plateau. The route should still be in good shape for little longer. I'll post pics a little later.
  4. That's a great TR and pics. I've been wanting to do the route for some time. Thanks for great beta. Do you have any pics looking across the Coleman? Interested in looking at the glacier conditions. For NR, do you recommend crossing lower or higher on the Coleman?
  5. Looks like we just missed you LisaD. Did the car-to-car West Ridge up and NE Ledge descent on Sunday. I won't go into all the details about the ascent as there's many beta already. The descent for us was not too fast and at times frustrating. In hindsight, the West Ridge descent may have been easier... =) As the Selected Climbs Cascade Vol I shows, you make 5 rappels (single) from the horn just to the east of the summit block (existing rap station) to find the ledge system and traverse across 5 ribs on class 3/4 ledge system. The ledge system was not too obvious so we questioned ourselves few times while rapping. Once we found the start, there was no question we were on the right ledge. There are cairns at almost each rib as you're traversing. We found the exit couloir (there's a cairn at the top of the couloir), climb up 90 feet and you top out...back on the south side. Fun glissading on the snow!
  6. Super cool. I want to do this route this summer to familiarize myself with Fisher-Chimneys route for the descent (up NF, down Fisher-Chimneys). From the pictures and all the snow, I'll wait few more weeks though! Looking for partners...any interest from anyone?
  7. Jarek, sent you PM. Not doing LR this weekend.
  8. Wow, what a TR. Glad Peter was ok and awesome effort! Last time I slid on a patch of snow/ice, I went feet first into a rock outcropping and broke my ankle. That was 4 years ago. Looking forward to the pics.
  9. Still looking. Any takers? I'm leaning more towards Lava Glacier Headwall at this time.... or if you want to make a suggestion, I'm listening!
  10. Would like to go do Liberty Ridge on July 11, 12, and 13. As alternative, Lava Glacier Headwall on Adams. We can share cost of gas. Must have own gear. If interested, PM me and we can compare experience.
  11. Any specific picture of Lava Glacier Headwall or Stormy ? thanks for posting! This is great.
  12. Anybody been up or know of the conditions on Reid Headwall? With so much snow this winter, would this route still be in?
  13. Climbed South Face on Fathers Day. Very easy romp on a beautiful day. Can approach via winter route still. We did not take flotation but we did not post-hole as much on way out. Everyone we passed had skiis though... got home early enough to take a nap...then enjoy my fathers day dinner.
  14. Ran into these two Japanese climbers on Ruth Glacier. TAT dropped us off in front of their basecamp. Chatted with them in Japanese for a brief period as they were packing up their camp. They told me they were going to do West Buttress for accli and then to Cassin. Then, they hopped on the same plane that dropped us off...and they were off to Kahiltna.... Sad news indeed.
  15. Did you go up? Any chance you took a look at Reid HW? On my to do list...looking to get'er done in next couple of weeks. Thanks, Eiji
  16. Climbed it in January of 2007. Back then, the crux pitches were thin. This year, I'm sure its full of snow. Might be a good time to go check it out once the avi conditions go down from this recent (and current) snow cycle. I did post some pics on summitpost.org from my trip (sorry, no TR on this website). http://www.summitpost.org/route/157894/devil-s-kitchen-headwall.html
  17. Descent was down the way we came up. Lots of snow and not being too familiar with the terrain, rapping down the route seemed to be the safest choice. Lots of rap stations already on route.
  18. Trip: CA Rockies - Shooting Gallery Date: 3/23/2008 Trip Report: Made a quick trip to CA Rockies this past weekend. Met up with David (Avitripp) who was up there few days before me gettin' some ice (He ended up getting off of his couch long enough to run up Carlsberg and Louise ). I wanted to do some alpine so I talked David into checking out Shooting Gallery on Andromeda. Forecast was for overcast and temps well below freezing. We left Canmore at 4:30am and got to Columbia Icefields at 6:30am. Very cold and windy! We were not sure what we would encounter on route so we had assortment of cams, nuts, screws, pins. Got to the base of the route in 2 hours. We slogged up the lower portion of the couloir...still hoping we would find some alpine ice conditions further up. It was not meant to be. Except for the crux ice pitch (which was thin and rotten), the entire route was snow slogging. Up higher, we encountered sugar snow over slabby rock. Snowed the entire time we were on route and spindrift was constant. Wish I had my goggles. Approach. Route is the obvious couloir in the middle Dude, are we having fun yet? Slogging up lower portion of the couloir Spindrift! David thinking it over at the crux ice pitch. Very thin and marginal ice. David styling and having fun while I was freezing my ass off at the belay...how is this fair? It was fun overall just to get out but I would recommend you wait till late spring or early summer before attempting this route. Too much snow! Good training for my Ruth trip in few weeks though.... Dane went up this route couple weeks (?) before us...you have any pics to share? Gear Notes: We took the whole house but only ended up using (2) stubbys, (2) 13cm screws, ONE nut... (2) 60m rope for full length rappel (2) tools each Approach Notes: No floatation devices necessary.
  19. Thanks Kurt. Enjoyed reading your TR from last year on C-H route. Kevin and I have this one on our radar but we will wait a little while. Eiji
  20. Anyone been up on Coleman Glacier lately? Where does the snow start on the road? Probably a long shot but any recent pics of Colfax Peak by any chance? Cosley-Houston Route is what I'm mostly interested in. Or alternatively Coleman Headwall? Thanks
  21. No flotation required from trailhead to lake. Pretty well packed down. Only from the lake on did we break trail.
  22. Actually, the top half was just steep enough to get us going and test out my skiing skills (which is not much) and Kevin's ability to ride faky on a snowboard that he has never been on before. He just used his poles to push, like you would on skiis. He had to get off a couple of times on the flat areas though. Corn snow made for good conditions. By the end, we were cruising. Persistence pays off!
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