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jfmctlaw

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Everything posted by jfmctlaw

  1. Another accident on Hood

    good news........ Just mins ago http://blog.oregonlive.com/breakingnews/2007/02/searchers_reach_climbers_repor.html
  2. Another accident on Hood

    Ketch, That's an awesome pic.
  3. GPS

    What good is a map/compass in a white out? Yes, it's nice to know your heading but it's pretty hard to know where you are without some landmarks or sightings....agree?
  4. Climber's Banned from Climbing

    Where the hell were you? Not sure what your point is. Are you saying Kim got helos and telcos and multiple SARs all working together? Did you read the research piece on Oregonian about the SNAFUs? http://www.oregonlive.com/search/index.ssf?/base/news/11663313078330.xml?oregonian?lctop&coll=7
  5. MT Hood Continued

    Telektr, nice thoughts. I hope everyone had a chance to read Jerry's TR from Rainier (with pics) last year. It's a great report and lesson all in one. I will never forget his closing words as he spoke about his gear prior to the fall into the crevasse: "Yes I felt like a nerd walking from Schurman to the flats with all that stuff rigged. No I will never feel like a nerd again." http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/481405/page/7#Post481405
  6. MT Hood Continued

    So how come cellphones can stay on for 100-200 hours and track GPS whenever it's on, as you claim, whereas GPS devices only last 10-20 hours? And why can't I pay Verizon $100 extra up front (or $1 per use) for me to grab my cell's own GPS coords? They're always looking for itemized ways to make money. What's your qualifications for talking about this? The power drain for your handheld gps type devices is mostly the display. Verizon and Sprint do offer GPS services on some of their phones. Search for Verizon VZ Navigator. I'm pretty sure Verizon also has a neat little phone you can give to your kid and you can track your kid on the 'net' using the GPS technology.
  7. MT Hood Continued

    I don't think most cellphones have a GPS... I thought they calculate the triangulations of the celltowers themselves to get coords, instead of having the celltowers compute it? Many cell phones for sale since early 2002 are 'E911' capable. That means GPS info can be transmitted. I agree the system is not mature or uniform within the US. Check your manual if you aren't sure. The phone is embedded with a Global Positioning System chip, which can calculate your coordinates to within a few yards by receiving signals from satellites. In the E911-capable phone, the GPS chip does not wait until it senses danger, it's switched on whenever your handset is powered up and is always ready to transmit your location data back to a wireless carrier's computers. Ok, enough cell phone stuff for me.
  8. MT Hood Continued

    I agree accuracy can vary and certainly be less than what I quoted, but the accuracy has nothing to do with cell towers on a 911 call. It has to do with how many GPS satellites your phone can receive. (Yes, you have a tiny GPS receiver inside your phone) The more sky, usually the better accuracy, so above tree line is usually very good. Now if you can't hit a cell tower from the mnt then you are SOL b/c you can't transmit that fine GPS coords from your phone.
  9. MT Hood Continued

    Pinging or making a routine call does not give accurate location info to the Telco. At worst it says you are 'near' some tower. A 911 call transmits the GPS info and they know where you are usually withing +/- 2 meters.
  10. MT Hood Continued

    That is a long subject, dependent on many variables (hydration, exertion, air or water temp, wind chill, wet or dry clothing, time of last meal, blood loss from trauma). If we are talking hypothermia only the speed of demise primarily depends on the temperature differential the person is experiencing on their skin. You can become hypothermic by swimming in a lake in July if the water is cool enough, there is a nice breeze and you stay in for some time. I don't want to say much more for fear of being 'spanked' for being off topic. I already got spanked yesterday.
  11. MT Hood Continued

    Pinging is nothing more than a handshake btwx the cell tower and cell phone. Something like Tower: "Hello, anyone there?" Phone: "Yep, phone No. 123 reporting in" or the phone says: Any Towers out there? Tower: Yep, tower 2 right here.
  12. MT Hood Continued

    Hyponatremia is another medical condition occurring from an imbalance of electrolytes (extreme exertion is one path to this condition). Impaired judgment and disorientation are likely symptoms. Fluid intake consisting of water alone exacerbates the condition. You must receive some salt to alleviate this condition. The autopsy tomorrow may shed some light on whether Kelly suffered any traumatic head injury.
  13. MT Hood Continued

    It appears the photos depict what gear they carried with them on the ascent, and possibly what gear they did not have.
  14. MT Hood Continued

    I've treated many dislocated shoulders. The pain can be excruetiating and the PT can only move slowly and carefully. One could barely hike a moderate trail to safety, never mind climb or descend a steep slope. You also lose the use of both arms for balance as you usually use your good arm to cradle/protect the injured limb. If it happened before the summit, I think that Brian and Nikko would have to literally haul Kelly up that mountain.
  15. MT Hood Continued

    The gullies are a little harder to see. The left gully is right below the red dot and filled with snow. It's like a valley only standing up on its end. The right gully is just to the right of the left gully and parallel to it. Both run straight up the mountain.
  16. MT Hood Continued

    The spur is easy to see in the above pic. It's the ridge running down and out of the left side of the pic.
  17. MT Hood Continued

    That's a great pic for showing how treacherous the area was. However (I may have missed it) can you tell us why you put the red dot where you did? Were you up there?
  18. MT Hood Continued

    Although Kelly James has passed, he is home now. I am hoping that Brian and Nikko come home too.
  19. MT Hood Continued

    i do not want to sound crass. i have nothing but sympathy for the climbers and their loved ones. but dude, have you read the news. they are not alive. the news that i just watched had part of a news conference with one of the climbers family members. he said that the James Kelly said that he always felt closest to god when he was climbing. perhaps the comment is that these men were doing what they love(d) to do. some people go to church to pray and some of us climb or hike something to have a conversation with god. this is absolutely a tragedy, but let us not forget that climbers (all of us) CHOSE to climb. Why don't you spank Muffy?
  20. MT Hood Continued

    Geez, I wasn't going to transcribe it.... I was just letting people know. You guys are going overboard here.
  21. Climber's Banned from Climbing

    It's not just climbing that the media gets 'wrong'. They get it 'wrong' everyday on other events b/c they are rushing to meet publishing deadlines. What happens is that when the media comes to 'your town' where you are the expert, you suddenly realize how inaccurate and misleading they are. I've been through it in other situations and I don't take it personally anymore. The trick is to get some good representation to speak/deal with them. That can be critical to keeping a fair public image of your sport. I think the Hood Families did a great job in raising the public awarenes on this story, not intentionally mind you, but just by their participation and presence. I would want Frank James as my brother if I ever needed a family spokesman, and I say that sincerely with all due respect. I don't recall that the Kim rescue got the same level of attention or organization.
  22. Climber's Banned from Climbing

    I think Mattp makes some good points. He must have a very gray beard. I've been involved with other non-traditional high risk sports and the tragic events that occur from time to time. You have to understand this cycle of interest. There is a lot of ignorance that comes to the event but it is your chance as the experts or the locals with knowledge of the scene to educate and win over many folks. It's a chance for free positive advertising of your beloved sport, and thus increase the body politic who will urge restraint when such issues as 'pay for rescue' loom. As a side note, paying for rescue is now growing across the US in other sports such as skiing/snowboarding. It may be a coming reality to all events the ambulance can't drive to.
  23. MT Hood Continued

    News conf in a few mins.
  24. MT Hood Continued

    No Air Ops today. Will search just the Gullies today. Last clear day for searching as new storm comes in tomorrow.
  25. MT Hood Continued

    There are many variables to the cell phone equation. First the signal strength needed to accomplish what's been called a 'ping' in the news is much less than the signal needed to make a call. As a cell phone battery loses charge, it also begins to lose it's ability to generate the strongest signal possible. Thus a phone can be 'pinged' by a tower but the phone cannot make a call. Also I have found in various mountain situations that on some days you can make a call and 30 minutes later you can't (from the exact same location). So there are other variables such as meterological conditions which affect RF propagation. In general making a voice call is the most difficult task for a cell phone. Messaging takes much less energy than a voice call, so try that as well. Also make sure your 'Location' setting on your phone is set to GPS ON for all calls in the mtns.
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