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Everything posted by AFIVE

  1. Who rap bolted steins pillar?

    I already mentioned these routes above in this thread. It is called Heat Stroke not Heat Wave, sorry for misnaming it above. I believe you have quoted me from another site that asked about Steins.
  2. Trango MaxCam

    This is an Omega Link Cam. The maxcam from Trango has got better from the original design. Like rr666 said the cable was too soft. They fixed that issue as well as the lobes not pulling evenly by repositioning the angle that the cables pull on the lobes. It has more range than their flex cams but not really much more than what you get from a Camalot. Trango reccomends "NOT" pushing the cam into a crack. I assume this is due to it's off set axle design. The cam tends to walk easily and works best in it's smaller range. What you see as range when you pull the trigger isn't "working" range. The Omega Link cam is a cool new design. I like the performance of those units. They fill a niche on the small side of things. The Metolius Supercam is a great design for extended range. One unit is truly the same as having two Fatcams on your rack. The Supercam is also lighter than the Fatcams which they have made for some time now. I would look into the Omega Linkcams for finger, ringlocks, tight hands sizes. I would look at the Metolius Supercam for tighthands, hands, cupped, to fist sizes. The small size is the only size available from Metolius at this time. The small is the same as a #6 and #7 in one unit! #6 (green), #7 (light blue) for those who don't pay attention to the numbers stamped into these gizmos.
  3. November 8th is the day Timmy will be in Seattle doing the show at the Patagonia store at 7:00 pm. It should be a good show!
  4. I just found out there will be a Seattle show. I don't have a date or time yet. You could call the Patagonia Store and ask them. I'll post it when I get the word on that show.
  5. I'm not too sure about Seattle. Timmy called me and asked if I could get the word out in the NW.
  6. Timmy O'Neill is giving a FREE slide show at the Patagonia Store in Portland Oregon. The slide show will be of his ascent of "Space" on El Cap with his brother Sean who is paralyzed from the waist down. They did the climb over the course of 7 days and 6 nights. Come on by for a cool trip report and his always entertaining antics. The show is on November 9th at 7:00 pm in the Pearl district. It's free!!! Come check it out!
  7. Taking a three week trip to the Vowell's in East Glacier cirque in 2006. I was curious how many days to hike in there with supplys for for three weeks. I was planning on at least two days from the Kain Hut. Any information on the area or personal experiences greatly appreciated.
  8. anyone been into the vowell's?

    I spoke with Kevin McLane on the phone about the area and different approach options. It looks like a few days of humpin' loads. The price you pay for new routing in a remote area. Thanks for all the "serious" replys.
  9. Smith Cracks

    The U.S. Outdoor Store has 3/8" and 1/4" removeable bolts. The only other area I have heard where these are used instead of a permanent bolts are the routes at Lost Rocks.
  10. Moolack Columns

    I enjoy adventure climbing and was told of this place by Erica and Mike South. they spoke highly of the adventurous atmosphere with no crowds. They said the rock was really good, but did need a bit of cleaning especially if you were looking to do a new line.
  11. Who rap bolted steins pillar?

    Who is your friend? When did he put up the routes? Maybe I'll head back over there and check it out. I haven't been over there since I put up my routes and climbed with Chip on his new routes at the time.
  12. Who rap bolted steins pillar?

    I don't know about the fixed line on the original line. Chip replaced all the anchors on that route about three years ago. The protection on the origianl line are horrendous! They are lead sleaves with wood screws put into them and bent up into a ring shape to clip. I would say that is a good guess....someone is replacing the bad bolts. I did the original line and rapped down the opposite side and bolted "Shasta's spirit 5.11d". All of these newer routes were done 2001. It deffinately doesn't take gear like most all of the pillar. There is a 5.10 "mass wasting" on the downhill side of the pillar. The original line also has an alternate 1st pitch that was bolted by Chip. There are two other multipitch routes on the satelite rocks to the west. "Money Whiskey Sexy" is a 5.9 put up by Chip and "Heatwave" is another 5.9 on the most westerly rock put up by Jim and Chip. No one goes out there because there were two routes to do. Now you can go out there and warm up on a 5.9 or 5.10, and then go for some of the 5.11's or the second route up the thing that is the only route that takes gear the 5.10d corner that turns into bolted face climbing to the summit. Shasta's Spirit is only one pitch. It has 11 bolts and then the anchor. It will most likely go for another two pitches to the top. Trust me if I could have placed gear I would have. I am a Trad climber! That summer was one of my two years of sportclimbing. I think that was the last time I clipped a bolt that wasn't a part of an anchor.
  13. anyone been into the vowell's?

    thanks for a serious reply. You have to be a paying member to read the trip report. There are just four in our group. We want to be able to stay in there for three weeks to hit a good weather window. I know it's far! I am interested in speaking with someone who has actually walked it.
  14. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    That's pretty cool that you can be on your computer while climbing 90' handcracks. 22 cams, you must really like to stich it up! I thought my rack was rediculous with 12 of each camalot. 22 WOW! That's more than you need for even the longest IC routes. You are deffinately the coolest!
  15. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    I'm sorry I missed you and your 45 buddies out there Friday and Saturday. They must have had better plans to climb somewhere else. I even had 12 of each size cam for you to supplement your rack with! Maybe we'll see you there next week.
  16. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    Cool! I'll finally run into some of you. I climb there every weekend and I never see any of you out there. If you have more than a tripple set of cams you can actually make it all the way to the anchors!
  17. HB out of business: need offset advice

    DMM purchased the tooling from HB. They will be producing them for Spring of 2006. They of course will be rebranded with DMM logos on them.
  18. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    He has a copy of Jeff's guidebook with his name attatched to some of the FA's there! He is one of the ten folks who climb there on a regular basis. The second edition of the guide should be finished sometime soon! There are double the routes that the first guide had in it.
  19. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    Yeah that's me in the pic "guy". I like being a skinny bastard! It allows me to send sick cracks unlike fat F@#$* that can't do much but talk shit online!
  20. Supercrack in central Oregon?

    It sure would have been nice if someone had asked me if they could post my picture on this site rather than just doing it and spraying about an area you have never been to!!
  21. awful fawkers at beacon rock

    There was no guide for Indian Creek for years until recent. The name, grade, and date of FA were scratched into a flat rock found nearby on the ground and placed against the cliff at the base of the route called "plaques" Alot of them are still in place. The buttress's themselves were never carved on!
  22. New C3's look

    They have a narrower head profile than aliens or TCU's! They eliminated the springs in the head and located them under the trigger bar. The ones in the photo are the third generation prototypes. I have been using them for over two month now! The only plastic I would be concerned with is the trigger. It is captured and could not be replaced. They are light weight units, but not as light as the new ultralight Metolius cams comming out in the spring of 2006. They are like a cross between an alien and a TCU. They have good individual cam manipulatiion even while being loaded over a horizontal edge. The cables that run through the clear sleeve down to the trigger bar don't bind up when the sleeve is loaded. All the new cams fit their own little niche. I have been using the Omega Linkcams, and Metolius Supercams for two years, the Metolius ultalights I have been testing for a year now, and the Trango Maxcam for about six months. I wasn't too impressed with the Maxcam's first generation prototype. I just recieved the Maxcam production version. The corrections I mentioned to them have been adressed except one point, which couldn't change due to the way it's designed. I'll use it this Friday and Saturday and see how it is improved over the first generation. All the new cams seem a bit weird, but once you get used to them they have their benefits over conventional cams. You won't replace your rack, but having a few different designs on your rack will stoke you at a belay or when you ran out of that certain size a few placements ago!
  23. Smith Cracks

    Why the F*%&$#@! Would anyone bolt a crack? Go buy a rack!
  24. Yates Gear Inc. 2608 Hartnell Ave. #6 Redding, CA 96002 Phone # (530) 222-4606. John and Karen Yates have been doing a great job on cams for years. Let them know how you want it and what kind of web you want and they will surely hook it up. They will sew web on what ever you want!
  25. Thanks for the compliment Rob! Descent people get descent service. Not everyone that works in a gear store is a climber. They should have knowledgeable staff on hand. Sorry for all of you who got bad service or don't like us. There are definately core climbers at this shop. You should be able to tell who climbs and who doesn't. Hint... look at the back of their hands for signs of crack climbing, and bulging forarms on the ice climbers. They have great gear at great prices. All of the shops in town have good people working there. Pick a shop that has a good selection and someone you like to deal with, and shop there. Remember it is retail and everyone has a bad day. If you are recocnized as a regular customer the shop will take care of you. The people that nickle and dime shops are the people that don't get hooked up. Pick a shop and start building frequent flyer miles, if you know what I mean. If you can't find the answers you are looking for ask for the person who can answer them. What it takes is looking for a job when one happens to be available. The people in charge have all been there for a while. Tell me who else carries the La Sportiva Lhotse, Nepal Extreme, Trango Ice, Trango Extreme, Vasque Super Alpinista, Vasque Ice 9000, Salomon Pro Ice, Garmont Fiamma Karbo GTX. All in stock for you to try on. Super glorified clothing store??? Best selection of everything is more like it.