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Everything posted by AFIVE

  1. rack opinions?

    #6 Friends=4, #3 Big Bro=2, #4 Big Bro=2, #9 Valley Giant=2, #12 Valley Giant=2. Now you have the big OW's covered! All your buddies should have the above mentioned gear on their rack. Use their gear to see what you like on the finger to fist sizes. Have fun wrestling Kimono Dragons!
  2. Spider Cams? - not Camp brand

    They are out of business (Splitter Gear). Malcolm at Trango bought the four lobe design, and produce those now. I think someone else purchased the rights to the two lobe design, but I can't think of who that is right now.
  3. Good Aid Routes Rocky Butte

    I did a thin line that took some thin nailing as well as clean trickery on the Mean Street Wall. It was between Seamingly Endless and Holy Bubbles. It topped out on the railing below the chainlink fence. Over to the right of Birds of Paradise is a faint trail that hugs the cliff, as it drops down there is an old line of bolts in a water streak....just a bit past this where the trail levels out a bit there is a line of old 1/4" studs which follow a seam under a roof. There are two bolts out on a face at this point. I placed a head in the seam left of the bolts and put in two small holes for 1/4" RB's. This will bring you around the roof and follow the crack system to the top. You use a few pins after the roof and then it's all clean gear and a few hook moves. The trees at the top you think could be anchors....Are ROTTEN! Two of them tore out on me when I grabbed them. There is also poison oak mixed in with the fun exit. The house at the top had a convienient fence post which I used for the anchor due to no solid trees. It was a stealth exit to the road from there. I wouldn't reccomend the same exit. An anchor would be better on this one. I believe this area is called the Wall of Shadows. There is a chimney looking thing to the right of the climb just mentioned which has a really cool looking arching crack at the top of the crag which I have not attempted, but just left is a line that you will notice a newer looking bolt on. That thing was a combined effort of a few people who tried it. It still hasn't gone all the way. The dihedral above the bolt is WAY thin. It takes beaks rurps and #0,#1 heads. After the crack ends you get to hook for four or five moves in a row to the right. You will see two rivits here. That is as far as it's gone. One fall was taken on the diheadral which sent (C W) for a 40' whipper down to where that first bolt is. A #2 HB off set in the bottom of the diheadral caught him! It was a great show! Have fun! Wear your helmet!
  4. anyone been here before?

    good luck finding it with those directions!
  5. anyone been here before?

    Not sure. I'm watching the weather. Did you do that route yet in the center of the crag?
  6. anyone been here before?

    It sure looks like the "Dreamlands" between Mt. Adams and Mt. St. Helens. Chris Hill, or Jim Opdyke would know for sure. It has been wet on the Deschuttes crags for weeks now. I have gotten wet the last two weekends over there.
  7. Identify Route Pls.

    I think it's east of Diheadral....Maybe Cosmos?.....Excalibur? The angling diheadrals on the Diheadral wall are much lower down. This pitch looks to be at least 3/4 the way up the wall. The two routes I mentioned above both have vertical corner systems higher up. I have not done either of these two routes, but it is deffinately to climbers right of Diheadral wall.
  8. Nalgene Danger

    I have heard this concern over the past three to four years from customers looking for nalgene substitutes. I did notice in your link....that they mention it occured at room temp. This is new news to me. I have always heard that heat was the catalyst in the leaching process. Don't wash bottle in dishwasher! I'm no chemist, but if you taste plastic from your bottle...aren't you eating plastic? The Poly bottles taste horrible. There is no taste from lexan....are you eating plastic then? You can get a Sigg aluminum bottle that is coated on the inside to protect from the issues of consuming aluminium. The Sigg bottles cost around 16.00 to 20.00 dollars!! Nalgene bottle are around 6.00 to 9.00 dollars. Soaps and detergents are basic in PH. Any sports drink would be acidic on the PH scale. If you are just drinking water and don't leave your bottle all closed up in your pack for a month to taste like mold.....and actually air dry them out when you get back from a trip I have my doubts about the leaching issue. Is this a bigger concern than the air we breathe downtown?
  9. transition to trad

    You will be stoked with an experienced partner who is very thourogh. You can never be too redundant. Following crack climbs and removing the gear will get you clued into what size gear fits what size body part. You will also see how well the gear was by the time you got to it. Did it walk into a bad location? You will know to put runners on pieces like that, etc.. Extending the length of a runner off a piece is usually good practice unless close to the ground. You just need some mileage taking out gear and seeing different natural anchor situations. My girlfriends first lead was a 5.10 hand crack. She climbed the thing on TR and took gear out of it probably 60 times, but she looked super solid on lead! My first lead was a 5.7 layback crack. It was two years into my climbing before I climbed a sport route. I know of another new climber who learned in the gym two years ago, and has climbed nothing but cracks outside on TR. This summer he also lead his first climbs. His first a 5.8 twin crack, and the second lead, the same 5.10 handcrack that my girlfriend led. It's in your comfort level and what you are used to. If you pinch nobs for two years on lead and then want to go lead a crack you have not quite done yourself justice in learning those techniques. It takes alot longer to place good pro as opposed to clipping a bolt. If your goal is to lead trad, then you should start following trad routes and get used to all the different sizes and what kind of jams work well in what size crack. best of luck! Trad climbing is extremely rewarding.
  10. Climbing near Portland, OR?

    Some are in the know of the best crack climbing, and no it's deffinately not in Washington....It's two hours from Portland. The good alpine granite....that would be Washington for sure! Ice....don't hold your breath. It's short lived and wet at it's finest. You'll be driving north for ice as well. PM me if you like splitters. Three of these people that have replyed to you know where I'm talking about.
  11. New Smith Guide

    I sent Alan an e-mail to ask the man himself. He said that he had been working full time on the book for the past four months and he will need another two months to finish the intro chapter, take photo's, and draw some maps. He said the book was done other than that. I also sent him a copy of the picture of the front cover that "Camilo" posted. He said that wasn't his photo for his guide book. It looks like the new Smith Guide Book is still two months away according to Alan.
  12. New Smith Guide

    I heard that Alans computer crashed with all the info in it! Don't know if it's just talk, but that is what I heard and that he had had it, and threw in the towel on the guide. The new cover looks nice. Does anyone actually have a copy of one?
  13. Gorge Ice

    If you look at the map in the PDX rock climbs book at the gorge ice. Everything in this thread that is reffered to as Mist falls, (I believe is referred to as Benson!) It is directly above Benson Lake. I think when I described where I was climbing in my first post sounded alot like the description in the book for mist falls. You do get coated in ice, but there are no trees off to the side like the description for mist falls. You also don't hike up a drainage like the description says. I am not sure, but it is my belief that these pics are at Benson. Those "death cicles" are branches of the bushes below which are encrusted in ice. Every thing in that area is encrusted in ice. Wayne....what is your take? I would imagine you recognize the place from the photos. The night time pics were at the same area as well.
  14. Gorge Ice

    Yeah Marcus we had a rad turf, mud, verglased rock, snow top out on our morning outting on "Bent Screw". It is in sporty WI4 conditions as of 6:00 am this morning. The ice was deffinately warming up quick. The top out was extra special considering the last three screws that I placed I was able to PUSH them in about 1 1/2" without screwing them!! The "Column" and the route to the left of "Bent Screw" were purging large chunks and daggers while we were there. It was a special warm fuzzy morning before work. It will be hanging around for another couple of days. Get your 10cm and 13cm screws back on your rack! My partner Ty took some pics. Hopefully he will post them. A 70M rope will just get you back to the ground if you lower off the big tree up and right. Nice big chunck of 10mm rope around the tree to rap off of (already in place when I got up there). This stuff at Sheppard's Dell tends to be the last remaining ice when everything else has fallen down. Have fun!!
  15. Gorge Ice

    I was out at Mist Falls again last night. The ice was forming up quickly. It was really cold!! We had great ice with good visibility with the full moon and headlamps. Climbed until 2:00 am. The ampitheater up to the right of Multnomah Falls is getting close but is still a bit thin. I would imagine that CJ got a bit thicker last night and might be good to lead again. This weekend out there should be awesome. The stuff at Cape Horn is still looking good and the large flow above the highway there is looking pretty fat as well over on the Washington side. Happy hunting and whacking!!
  16. Centeral Washington Ice

    Is this photo up the side canyon at Banks where the Emerald is located? I noticed a flow starting on the right side of the canyon two weeks ago. This sort of looks like it. Just curious if that is it or if this is something else in the near vacinity. Thanks in advance.
  17. Paulina Falls

    Please send me a PM if it's forming up. I'll be in Bend this weekend.
  18. central wa ice

    There is one motel in Coulee City which is at the south end of Banks Lake. On the north end in Electric City there are at least two motels, bar, resturant, groceries. Bar and resturant are smokey. There is a campground at Steamboat state park. There is also a road that goes up to the right side of the road before electric city. (there are only three roads that come off the highway to the right) to a summer camping area which I have set my tent up at a couple of times. Not sure if that is legal or not. I have also set up a tent at the pull out for Salt and Pepper. Nice car camping spot! Hope that helps.
  19. banks lake

    I notice the weather in Electric City has been in the 20's at night, but a bit warm during the day. The 10 day forcast is showing highs around 36. My experience has shown that place needs two to three weeks of those temps to get leadable ice. Anyone from Spokane or other nearby town been over there to get a look? I am also curious about the routes in the cave up on the summit before you get to the cable. Are those drytool routes? Is there ever ice that forms at the lip? Are those rock climbs? I have been climbing up there for the last three seasons and have never seen ice in or at the top of the cave. I have never seen anyone climbing in there either. Just curious if anyone has beta on it. Thanks in advance for info on ice that is starting to come in. The flows that have come in good seem to be different every season.
  20. ice in the gorge

    The gate for the dirt road accessing the railroad tracks is WIDE OPEN! Just drive on down by the tracks, we did. This is located pretty much directly accross from Rooster Rock itself. I loaned all my 10's and 13's out this morning. Marcus and John I hope that helps you send it!!
  21. Pete's Pile Ice

    Saw no ice from the road on Friday morning. The ice is in in the Gorge!!!
  22. ice in the gorge

    Climed ice in the gorge Friday and this morning before work!! Crown Jewel is climbable, but you need lots of 10's and 13's. The slab above that pond is super thick! Nice mushrooms to climb on and you can get long screws in it as well. The ice is wet from all the wind blowing the waterfall over onto it....but that's why the ice is in!!! I got covered by a one inch layer of ice while leading the pitch. The ice also takes v-threads no problem! You can find lines varrying from WI2 to WI3+. Have fun on it. I think it will be there for a while.
  23. Gorge Ice

    It's in!! Climbed Friday afternoon on the slab up above the pond. I went out at 5:30 am to check out Crown Jewel and you need a slew of stubbies. The ice is deffinately climbable. We went back up to the slab and got pounded by the waterfall blowing on us from the nuking wind. We were quite crusted in ice. Really fun mushroom formations to play around on. You could find lines from WI2 to WI3+. Ainsworth Left looks like it's trying, but haven't walked up to it yesterday or today. Directly across from Angels rest trail head there is some good looking ice on the Washington side. Even in the sun it seems to be hanging out fine. Many of the flows near "thick enough to screw" were TRable for some thin techy mixed climbs. Have fun! I bet it's there for at least a week from now!!
  24. Conrad Anker is giving a slide show at Benson High School at 7:00 pm on Friday December 9th. Tickets are 10.00 and are available at the U.S. Outdoor Store and the Mazama Clubhouse. You can also buy tickets at the door. There will be a bunch of North Face gear raffled off at the show! Come check out the "Radster" and win some free gear!
  25. Smith Aid Route Suggestions

    Ho Chi-Minh Trail on the Red Wall, Pin Bender, and the Great Roof on Brogan Spire, Picnic Lunch Wall on PLW, Palo Verde on Mesa Verde, and the super sick Smith Aid line is just left of Scarface....Air to Spare which is a bit harder than A3+. Happy Nailing! Don't you love the looks you get from the sport climbers?