Trent

Trip: Repulse Peak - South Ridge Date: 6/20/2011 Trip Report: I was way behind. In the seemingly never ending quest for the Repulsive 69, I had been losing ground for the past two years to the crew. For the uninitiated, the Repulsive 69 are the top 69 most obscure and unaesthetic peaks the Cascade Range has to offer. If it is in a selected climbs guide, the peak is automatically rejected from the list for principles sake. I needed to reverse this disturbing trend and get back into the chase. At the annual peak bagging slide show, my talk of bolts, warm granite, and cragging had brought a round of snickers from the crowd. I needed to regain some semblance of authority and boost my self-worth a bit. What better peak to bag to show them that I was back than the namesake of the list, Repulse! The crew (Jason, AKA Snafflebait; Gord, AKA Alberto Tomba; Scott, AKA The Moatmaster; and Tim, AKA Perro Rapido), had bagged the peak in excellent style, nabbing the second ascent of the original route. See link . Their verdict; it deserved to be part of the list, being very repulsive. To regain some stature and put myself back in the running, I needed that peak! I had to put myself in the Repulse club! A wet crossing would have been better An early wake-up put me at Swamp Creek at 0700; it was still misting. Repulsive weather, appropriate! A quick stumble down to Granite Creek, and I found a log to cross at the perfect spot. Too convenient, this would not make a good repulsive story. Postholing through the timber was not so bad; at least the brush was under the snow. Initially, I climbed up into the overcast, but then it lifted as I proceeded up the valley. Not so repulsive. Starting to look promising The climb to gain the South Ridge was actually sort of enjoyable, all on snow with minimal postholing. Too straight forward Fisher Peak: Once on the ridge, I did a self-belay to cross a wet-snow filled gulley; somewhat repulsive but not enough. It might finish strong! The finish was all on rock, which was not even that loose and was somewhat dry. Fun! The original summit register was still on the peak, signed by the Fireys back in 1971. Pretty cool actually. The descent was actually sort of fun; a few rappels and a lot of boot skiing, with the unavoidable post holing back to the car. Over all, this peak was not that repulsive! I was somewhat disappointed, but since I had climbed it, I was not going to let on to the crew that I actually had fun doing so. The official story: It was a horror fest. I am lucky to be alive telling you this story. I will have to do some creative editing for the slideshow. Take that, crew! I am back! Repulse Peak: (not so repulsive) Gear Notes: Class 3/4, take the appropriate pro. Approach Notes: Follow the true right side of the un-named creek across the highway from Swamp Creek. Early season is nice to avoid brush in the upper valley.

Scott: I did not know that you were a local celebrity! Think about a climbing trip in December; I should have some time to kill!

All: Thanks for the pointers. Our rough itinerary includes diving at the Poor Knight Islands up North, Mt Taranaki, kayaking Able Tasman NP, Mt Aspiring (most probably the NW Ridge), the Copeland Track, Castle Hill, Cave Stream (near Castle Hill), and Mt Owen. More serious alpinism will hinge upon how well I recover (I just had the titanium rod pulled out of my femur). Weather will dictate if and when, the itinerary is open ended. Any other must see or favorite spots?

I am planning on a month long foray to New Zealand next month, and was wondering if anyone had some recommended trips, peaks, hikes, or places not to miss. The plan for the trip is light alpinism, hiking, and diving, with most time being spent on the south island. Thanks.

Jason: I have to work this weekend, or I would be keen. I need to get out and do something to keep my mind off of the recent happenings. I do know of one of the SAC members that was thinking of doing Silent Running or Dreamer; if you want his contact info let me know.

Well said Scott. Dallas was a friend and mentor, and will be greatly missed. Dallas was the climber that I aspired to be; capable, adept, and without ego. Dallas enjoyed introducing his passion for climbing to others; he was known for lending a hand to all on Mt Erie, and would invite anyone who was keen on his alpine adventures. Dallas was affectionately known as the "Energizer Bunny". On many alpine routes, all of us 25 years and more his junior would be sitting around catching our breath when the question would be asked, "Where's Dallas?" One only had to look toward the summit for the answer. Always positive, always extremely saavy, Dallas was the consumate partner. One amazing fact about Dallas was that in his over 50 years of climbing, he never had an unplanned bivy. He would always take the lead on the pitches that no one else wanted, and had a knack for getting it done. The mountains will not be the same; climbing for me will not be the same. I was lucky to know Dallas as a friend, and feel honored to be his climbing partner. A few pictures from recent climbs: Dallas on the sharp end on the Minuteman Dallas getting ready to go on Liberty Bell Bailing off of the Torment-Forbidden Traverse Blackbeard Peak On the sharp end again on Chair Peak Another approach J-Berg. Rockfall had broken my finger in the CJ couloir two years prior, and I was still somewhat freaked by the place. Dallas got me up it though, for his seventh summit of the peak. J-Berg Index, North Peak

Steph: A great TR with some outstanding pictures as usual. You really have an amazing talent with the camera. It was a great trip with quality partners. But I am still holding out for Robson!

Dallas: Wow! 48 years between acsents! Your memory for choss must be good!

Steph: Thanks for the great company, fun trip, and awesome TR. Your pictures are inspiring and beautiful as usual.

Donn: Another (how many is it now?) great trip to the Pickets! At least it was better than the one last year! Missed you up on Rainier this weekend. Jason says that you have a story about Ptarmigan Ridge?

Tom and Wayne: I was wondering how your Pickets trip was going; nice work getting that classic route in difficult conditions. What was your original plan, or is that classified?

Dallas: Would have liked to be there with you all, but duty called. Sounds like a successful trip; perhaps replacement of the bolts next time?

Trip: Whistler Mountain - East Couloir / North Ridge Date: 6/5/2010 Trip Report: For those interested, the East Couloir route on Whistler Peak is still in, but probably not for long. Heinrich and I picked the climb last Saturday as a good choice for a one day outing to beat the poor weather forecast for Sunday, and a good test for my (mostly) rehabilitated legs. The couloir is the left hand one The entire route turned out to be more difficult in all respects than I had anticipated. Heinrich, who has climbed it twice, concurred with that assessment. The troubles started with the creek crossing. The creek was swollen with the recent snow-melt, and a log to cross could not be found. We ended up finding a shallow spot and running across in our boots. Booting up The snow up the couloir was mostly soft requiring postholing, occasionally up to the thighs, not requiring crampons. Heinrich – Thanks for the steps. About ¾ of the way up, there was a traverse that had melted out to the nasty slabs underneath surrounded by soft, rotten snow. Heinrich scratched up it, and then threw the rope down for a belay when I started whining. The final portion of the couloir was threatened by some cornices, the biggest which can be avoided by climbing on the left. On top Once on the ridge, it was like we had stepped into a different season. The snow had some powdery fresh over a frozen ice slab that required crampons, and the rock was iced up in places. The climbing was mostly secure, but the pins came in handy. We descended down the SW side of the peak, on snow until almost at the highway. We met a solo climber at the summit who gave us a ride back to our vehicle (thanks). Overall: A very aesthetic route on a peak with super easy access. Gear Notes: Two axes (one would be sufficient, but two are more comfortable and the approach is short), crampons, rope and light rack (included pins) (not needed if the ridge is mostly snow free) Approach Notes: Park on the highway underneath the route. Cross creek and start climbing.

Tom: When we were up there, we climbed the gulley to the left of the hanging glacier (Scott and crew made it up to the notch between Assassin and Lincoln by this route). About halfway up that gulley, the hanging glacier calved off a huge piece and shook the whole peak. After I cleaned my shorts out, my enthusiasm was somewhat diminished, but Dallas was still gung-ho. Scott had proposed a name for the glacier, but I forget what it was. (Probably something akin to the Deathtrap Glacier)

Tom: Congrats! I was in the Prowler that did the fly-by when you were summiting. I was doing a quick conditions check for a possible attempt later this month, and could not beleive my eyes! I thought that it was either you or Wayne, but I knew that you were aware of the peak and its status. I sorry now that I forgot the camera! Dallas Kloke, Scott Bingen and I had made an attempt four years ago in spring, and Scott had tried again last spring, both to be turned around due to poor rock. Nice work! (I'm jealous)

Looks like the fishing season is off to a slow start; glad to see that you are keeping busy! Don't burn yourself out, I've got some good suffering planned for your return!

Looks like a lot of fun! I really enjoyed Slovenia when I was there; its one of Europe's hidden gems!

Awesome trip Scott! Wish I could have been there to enjoy the scenery and the company. Next year!

Dallas: When are you going to take me up? I have built my alpine walker and am ready to roll!

The McMurdo FastFind. Sells for $300: LINK

Trent, Was it needed or would it just have been nice to have? It ended up not being needed, but would have made the rescue quicker and the ensuing situation easier to manage. Another form of technology, a cell phone was actually used to initiate the rescue. For further edification see: LINK

Link to a good article concering manditory MLUs. I used to poo-poo technology in the backcountry, but having been in a situation this summer where a PLB would have been useful, I now carry one. It is light (5 oz) and GPS enabled. I can think of no good reason not to carry it.

Too bad there is not a wheelchair ramp; I would have been there for mutual support! But I do want to know where the leather pants are! This is proof of the theorem that without pain there is no pleasure. Oh, and nice climb!

Jason: You might be the first to finish the replulsive 69 with all of your recent bagging!

I am considering purchasing a PLB for mountaineering, kayaking, and aviation. Does anyone have any recommendations or personal experience with them? Thanks.