KaskadskyjKozak

MANY MANY MANY THANKS FOR THE DETA1LED MATERIAL FOR GLACIER PEAK IT IS BETTER THAN WHAT I HAVE. CAN YOU THINK IOF ANY OTHER SIGNIFICANT ROAD, TRAIL, SCRAMBLE ETC CHANGES FOR VOL 2 (SKYKOMISH TO SKAGIT R IVERS) / ? perhaps will try phoning you SHOULD I CONTACT BR___ C_____ FOR WME QUESTIONS ? BEST FRED BECKEY

This could not have been said any better. RIP, Mr. Beckey

Avenge suicide? Your empathy muscle has atrophied. That's the quote Ivan always posts when someone dies. But yeah, not very a propos this time around

nothing to do with "comfort" I was just a poor planner and did not reserve a spot in Whitney Portal. My bad!

speaking of Jason G... he left an interesting playing card in the summit register... choss dawgs FTW!

JasonG will pass us both soon enough on the TR count There were showers forecast on Sat and SAt night and they seemed to have done wonders clearing the smoke. I was pleasantly surprised by the clear skies too

Denny's is gross and bad for you. Choss piles are gross but oddly appealing, and as long as you don't die from rock fall, the exercise is good for you

Trip: Dakobed Slam - Sheepherder Trail Approach Date: 9/11/2017 Trip Report: My friend Meredith and I climbed Luahna this weekend. I have a longish history with this peak. I attempted it twice already: once in June 2014 and once in June of this year. The first time we encountered more difficult conditions than we expected and burned out by the time we summitted Clark (via the Walrus glacier). Luahna looked so far away that we opted to be satisified with one peak. The second time we got to just below point 7970 before we hit our turnaround time (also via the Walrus Glacier). On that trip we got back to the cars at 12:40 am. Uggh. We headed out of town at 6 am and started up the trail at just after 9. We were happy that the long washed-out last bit of road has been fixed and we got all the way to the White River trailhead. We made short work of the first 9 miles. The plan was to get as high up as we could with plenty of daylight, so, after a quick lunch we headed up the "sheep herder" trail out of the basin below Boulder Pass. We got to the meadows at 5800' and it was still early and there was a lot of running water about so we continued up. At 6600' it was still early and we decided to get up to the notch on the S ridge below point 8360 and see if there appeared to be water (snow patches) and flattish spots to camp. If not, we could drop back 800 feet. That proved unnecessary and we headed down the gully beyond the notch and found reasonable spots on heather benches with running water. It was early (4:45) but we opted to make this camp rather than keep pushing on. Traversing to notch below point 8360: View back down from notch: View from notch to Clark: This gave me plenty of time to drink whisky and watch the sun set. Damn! That was a luxury I've become unaccustomed to - and quite welcome. Technicolor treat: We got up at 5:30 and started up soon thereafter as dawn lit up the terrain. At the notch at 8000' I took a look over the other side. I don't know if this is technically the W face or is more like SW face. The terrain seemed doable but required a long traverse to skiers right to get over the S ridge proper and beyond. We went for it. Although it was unsavory in spots, it went just fine and we were soon under the W face of Clark proper. Some spice is nice: From here we contoured between 7500 and 7600 feet below point 7970 and under the S face of Luahna. We then ascended scree and talus and got undernewath the SW face. From here we followed our nose and found the landmarks we were looking for: a black rock step with a white line through it (to scramble up) and then a "vertical slab/rabbit ears" with a hidden gully Soon we were on the summit. Second half of the long traverse to Luahna: Way up to the Rabbit Ears: Blurry pic of the Rabbit Ears: KK on the summit of Luahna: Clark from Luahna: MM enjoying the views: View towards Glacier Peak from Luahna: After a long break we started down and retraced out steps. Looking up at the W face of Clark it seemed there was a less circuitous route up but we opted to go with the Devil we knew. We traversed even more on the ascent to climber's right and topped the spur ridge at 7800'. From here we ascended a climber's trail to the summit of Clark. Clark summit p0rn pano: After a shorter break we headed down. It took an hour to get to camp, 30 min to pack and 6 hours to hike out. My Stone IPA hit the spot at 9:45 pm and helped make the drive a bit more enjoyabe. Gear Notes: Helmet. Approach Notes: No bugs. No snow. Plenty of running water.

Wonderland trail in one push?

The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire...

Abram you are a nut!!!! But, props, dude!

When I climbed Jack 3 years ago I thought it was great but all my partners thought the loose rock was atrocious. I may just tune it out. There were a few "widow makers" up there. I just looked for them and warned others...

Really? I didn't notice... felt it was about average. Perhaps I have become inured to choss? (I still feel like Martin was a total POS and hateful in every way, however)

Trip: Formidable - South Face Date: 8/27/2017 Trip Report: I climbed Formidable this past weekend with my friends Noel and Ed. At the TH we ran into a 3-person party that we knew who had to make a backup plan on the fly due to a new fire in the Thunder Creek area (they had planned on Logan). We ended up having a similar itinerary with them and shared the camp and parts of the climbing route. The hike in was uneventful, albeit increasingly hot from Kool Aid lake and onwards. Formidable from somewhere between Cache Col and Kool Aid lake: The Cache Glacier has a few cracks open and some icy bits but we opted to do it unroped. The Red Ledges were easily accessible by downclimbing 10 feet into a moat, skirting it a bit, then scrambling a class 3 gully. We camped in meadows just past the Red Ledges. Due to the heat and sun we retreated into our bivies for a nice siesta with extra clothing hanging from our shelters as extra shade. We enjoyed a spectacular sunset, partially thanks to the wildfires: On Sunday we got up pre-dawn, which is not that early these dog days of summer, and headed up to the Middle Cascade glacier. This one was crevassed enough to make us rope up, but other parties might be fine soloing it. The Spider-Formidable col was dry but had some steep, firm snow on the S side. I put on crampons and was glad to have done so. Descending steep snow: Views opening up from the col: After dropping a couple hundred feet we traversed snow and talus along the Ptarmigan Traverse trail until the saddle just below point 7285. From here we descended a shitty loose gully and then traversed mostly talus, with some snow then scrambled class 3 to just below a snow field. We climbed that (firm) and attained the ramps leading to the "ledges" option as described by Klenke on summit post. This was solid and easy. Then we traversed and scrambled fun class 3 to the summit. Typical scrambling on the S face: After a leisurely time enjoying the views and mutual company we headed down and got to camp by 6:30. Monday we retraced our steps from Saturday and got to the car by noon. This peak is a milestone for me: 75/100. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, rope for Middle Cascade glacier. No need to belay anything or rappel. Approach Notes: One gully on the traverse along Mixup Arm is nasty to cross. Steep snow at Spider-Formidable col.

Damn fine work, Ian!

We went to the leftmost waterfall. Started up just right of it. I did not see any branches. Just rock

Congrats! We came a few days later and bailed. The heat slowed us down and we got at the N fork crossing at about 6:45pm. We got our permits later than you - arrived at 7:35 out at 8:10 That permit system sucks. In the end though we screwed up routefinding for the slabs. When we found them it was too late to go up. I'm not sure I would have wanted to anyways. The exposure on 4th class slabs with a full pack...

I was thinking about Goode for later this summer, what made you bail? class 4 slabs with a full pack. one slip - you die.

Well said!

They do teach that. They teach being conservative. To many here - TOO conservative. I'm not second-guessing anyone's decision (or mistake). This sport is dangerous and margin for error is low. This is a huge tragedy. It actually made me think twice this weekend and bail on a climb 15 miles in with class 4 slabs. Not worth my life, even to do a cool route like Goode.

OK, thanks. This is a sad event.

What is "the boulder move? I recall two or three rappels between the false summit and where the angle lessons and there is mellower (downclimbing) terrain back to the notch.

or do something car to car. no permit needed