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Everything posted by KaskadskyjKozak

  1. [TR] Formidable - South Face 8/27/2017

    Really? I didn't notice... felt it was about average. Perhaps I have become inured to choss? (I still feel like Martin was a total POS and hateful in every way, however)
  2. [TR] Mount Redoubt - South Face 8/5/2017

    Damn fine work, Ian!
  3. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    We went to the leftmost waterfall. Started up just right of it. I did not see any branches. Just rock
  4. NE Buttress Goode 7/23-7/25 2017

    Congrats! We came a few days later and bailed. The heat slowed us down and we got at the N fork crossing at about 6:45pm. We got our permits later than you - arrived at 7:35 out at 8:10 That permit system sucks. In the end though we screwed up routefinding for the slabs. When we found them it was too late to go up. I'm not sure I would have wanted to anyways. The exposure on 4th class slabs with a full pack...
  5. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    I was thinking about Goode for later this summer, what made you bail? class 4 slabs with a full pack. one slip - you die.
  6. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    Well said!
  7. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    They do teach that. They teach being conservative. To many here - TOO conservative. I'm not second-guessing anyone's decision (or mistake). This sport is dangerous and margin for error is low. This is a huge tragedy. It actually made me think twice this weekend and bail on a climb 15 miles in with class 4 slabs. Not worth my life, even to do a cool route like Goode.
  8. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    OK, thanks. This is a sad event.
  9. Accident (Death) on Forbidden -- Details?

    What is "the boulder move? I recall two or three rappels between the false summit and where the angle lessons and there is mellower (downclimbing) terrain back to the notch.
  10. Questions about N Cascades Permits

    or do something car to car. no permit needed
  11. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    What makes you think that? They seem to be in the business of removing anchors. They pulled the bolted descent route and cleaned all of the anchors from the West Ridge. Hard to imagine them adding anchors. Yep. Unless he meant they were up there climbing and having fun, taking up a Boston Basin permit for themselves in the process
  12. [TR] Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys 7/16/2017

    Better weather down south this weekend
  13. Ptarmigan Traverse Exit

    I descended the Bachelor Creek trail a couple weeks ago. It's not that bad or overgrown. There are a few downed trees which you must go over, under or around.
  14. Paging Polish Bob

    Don't forget about the Illuminati!
  15. Trip: Bonanza and Martin - Mary Green Glacier and W. Ridge Date: 7/15/2017 Trip Report: It seems more than a few of us have waited long enough to get into Holden with normal access. Like a dam ready to burst, once the remediation ended we are flooding to get some alpine goodness. I don't like crowds (or sloppy seconds for that matter), but in this case, I didn't care. It was worth a run in there to get some. And, in the end, it was not so crowded. My friends Alex and Andy met me early Friday morning and we drove to Field's Point Landing. We caught the Lady Dexu and then the school bus. I will not say much more about this ride or our "reception" and Village visit other than... umm, never mind. From Holden we hiked in to Holden Lake and then the pass. It was hot AF and the going was slow. I expected this to take just 4 hours but it took six. At the pass there were a few folks already and we scouted about to find a flatt-ish spot for our 2p tent and bivy. There were snow patches and we found a reasonable stream of running water out of one. Score! Alarms set: 3:40. We were up and moving within an hour. The way up from the pass was about 40% trail and 60% snow up until the infamous waterfall slabs. There was a steep snow patch right before the slabs that required about 30 feet of careful stepping (slick) and then we were at the base of those slabs. They were cruiser and caused no issues. We roped up above the slabs and headed up the Mary Green. She was cruiser as well. We stayed climber's right until just below cliff bands then cut left until the final slope leading to the bergschrund. There were a couple or three spots to transition from snow to rock and we picked the most tame one of them. We unroped and headed up. A second party of three caught up to us here. We chatted with them and decided to minimize rockfall by 1) climbing together and 2) avoiding rappels on the way out as much as possible. Approaching the waterfall slabs. I was underwhelmed: Looking up the Mary Green. Damn she got a purty mouth! Traversing high on the Mary Green: Transitioning from snow to rock at the 'schrund: The scrambling was easy and snow free. We had to do some zigging and zagging but ended up in the right spot just below the ridge. The final 4th class bit was fun and easy and very secure. Fun scrambline on Bonanza with great views down of the Mary Green: Topping out on Bonanza: After some summit lounging, we headed down. We downclimbed the whole route without rappelling. It was all chill. We rested back at camp for an hour. Since it was early (1pm) we discussed heading up Martin. One of my party opted to chill rather than go up Martin. One member of the other party we had met on Bonanza wanted to climb it, and so he joined us. We were all a bit tired, but probably I was most tired. The going was slow. And I was eating shit, but was determined to beat the sunset. What should take folks 3 hours took us more like 4. I have little to say about Martin other than she is a shit pile of epic proportions. I can't wait to climb that other notorious shit pile - Custer. From afar it just looks steep. But it is a chossy shitpile: Shit gully on Martin: Some nasty, steep scrambling near the summit of Martin: Summit p0rn from Martin: From the summit of Martin we retraced out steps. We rappeled the top 4th class step and downclimbed the rest unroped. 3 hours later we arrived at camp. It was 9:20, but no headlamps were required. I soothed my aching pains with a couple drams of Eagle Rare and crashed at midnight. The hike out Sunday was uneventful. The Lady was an hour late and my beer was lukewarm in the car. That kind of sucked, but it was better than climbing Martin. Even boiled beer would be better. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, helmet, 40 m glacier rope. Approach Notes: Follow the trail around the lake and pay attention and you will avoid all but maybe 100 feet of schwacking through slide alder.
  16. [TR] Bonanza and Martin - Mary Green Glacier and W. Ridge 7/15/2017

    Oh, and the best part? No stopping at ANY RANGER STATION FOR A PERMIT. You show up and head up. The way it should be
  17. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    You're still not gonna get a permit to Boston Basin this weekend. :kisss: 6 permits, party size 1-12. Could be 6 people, could be 72. When will the NCNP have a *sane* Boston Basin permit policy -limiting # of people, not parties? And when will they stop giving guide services the ability to book permits in advance of the general public? Why does paying a franchise fee confer more access rights for public land?
  18. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    I had a positive experience once too in the past couple years. We obtained a permit for the TFT. The person at the desk in Marblemount did not know what zone was correct and pulled in another ranger. We got a permit for the Torment zone on the first night then Forbidden zone on the second. We got to the base of the SE face of Torment and decided it was too late in the day to continue that day and backtracked to below the slabs with a waterfall and camped. A ranger asked for our permits and told us that not only were we not in the right spot (not yet in torment zone) but our permits were wrong and needed to be in the Boston Basin zone for both nights. We told her we had been told differently when we got the permits. She told us that if that's what we were told, no harm no foul (I expected her to tell us to leave or cite us). She let us stay.
  19. Paging Polish Bob

    ^^Troll^^ In case you missed it, he quit the site because gun ads were popping up for him due to his browsing history. He blamed cc.com for the ads thinking (mistakenly) they were paid for specifically to cc.com for advertising. And seriously dude, your post is the troll. YOu know damn well what his opinion would be and how he'd express it
  20. Paging Polish Bob

    What does that have to do with what his opinion would be on Trump's speech related to Poland? Really is there a question what his opinion would be?
  21. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    Last year I had a ranger at the desk acting rudely to me when get a Logan permit. He was not helpful and there was an attitude thing for sure. Not going to go into details here but suffice it to say this type of behavior is only getting worse.
  22. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    In other words, assume the public you are dealing with is doing the wrong thing and treat them like they've committed a violation before they have. How about you just patrol Boston Basin and issue citations to people that actually violate rules rather than accuse people of doing wrong (planning to do wrong) who have no intention of it? Or how about politely explaining the exact places where camping is permitted and not for the N side of Forbidden?
  23. [TR] Forbidden - North Ridge 7/9/2017

    Just another example of how hostile and uncooperative the NCNP rangers have become. They act like climbers are trespassers on their property rather than part of the public they are supposed to serve.
  24. Paging Polish Bob

    His view will be a vitriolic diatribe replete with course language. Of course he hates Trump, whatever Trump says or does, and would express the most negative opinion possible on the matter.