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Everything posted by KaskadskyjKozak

  1. current song in your head

  2. best content Help identifying the best content on CC.com

    no chestbeating. I'm a humble wanna-be climber, weekend warrior. I do enjoy writing narratives for trips and am proud of a few. i'm confident you guys will improve/restore a lot of the indexing and search capabilities. The new site really is a beauty to behold
  3. list of cc.comies you'd most like to meet

    somehow death eludes you
  4. list of cc.comies you'd most like to meet

    I did meet Ivan. that was cool. the fucker was drinking vodka out of a flask at the top of the Palmer. true to form
  5. best content Help identifying the best content on CC.com

    Please find my W ridge of STuart TR. Maybe not the best of anything, but I'd like a link to it to share with folks....
  6. list of cc.comies you'd most like to meet

    No. I never met Minx and she's gone. Bummer I met Bug and Archenemy. Cool peeps.
  7. best content Help identifying the best content on CC.com

    That Mongo ridge climb by wayne. Yo. fucking sick! Oh and i recall one on Colonial in winter that was badass too
  8. First!

    word to the motherfucker
  9. New forum software!

    Guys: This is truly awesome! I love the new look! Thank you for your hard work, dedication, and work over the years! You've put up with a lot of BS and stayed the course, for the love of our sport(s) and community. Fuck yeah!
  10. RIP Fred Beckey

  11. RIP Fred Beckey

  12. RIP Fred Beckey

    This could not have been said any better. RIP, Mr. Beckey
  13. Hayden Kennedy Dead

    Avenge suicide? Your empathy muscle has atrophied. That's the quote Ivan always posts when someone dies. But yeah, not very a propos this time around
  14. [TR] Mount Whitney - East Buttress 9/7/2016

    Trip: Mount Whitney - East Buttress Date: 9/7/2016 Trip Report: Ever since I had to turnaround on the East Face of Whitney two years ago I've been jonesing to return for another shot. Get back on that horse and what not. This year I tried really hard to secure Labor Day Weekend (proper) reservation for the N Fork... but damn it was tough. I ended up with an entry date of 9/5 and opted for 3 nights. The idea was flexibility: altitude issues, weather, etc. The hope was to climb both the E Face and the E Buttress. Last time I camped at Upper Boy Scout Lake and used diamox. That worked okay, but I vowed to camp at Iceberg for the next time around (foreshadowing). I flew into Vegas on Sunday to meet Gaucho Argentino, who flew in from Atlanta. We then drove into Lone Pine and opted for a good meal, a hot shower and a good night's sleep (read, hotel). The next day we drove up to Whitney Portal early and hiked in. Both of us had packs that were WAY too heavy. It took 7 hours from TH to Iceberg. I arrived first and encountered an incoherent woman yelling for help. At first I heard her voice but did not see her. After 20 min of searching and walking uphill toward her voice I finally spotted her on the E side of Iceberg Lake. She was obviously suffering from lack of food, water, altitude and God knows what else. She had no pack, food, or gear (she left a fanny pack and trekking poles about half way down towards UBS Lake). I led her to camp, got her water and flagged down two summiters coming down the Mountaineers route. I convinced these reluctant climbers to help said victim down at least 1000', and gave them 1.5 liters of water and a pack of Gu for her. They left together. Hopefully she is OK. Fading light at camp: I was worried about the altitude and AMS but so far, so good. We made camp, and dinner. I had trouble eating (no appetite) but got through my Mountain House. Then my head began to ache. The pain increased. Think about the worst hangover you have ever had. I took two advil. Nothing. I waited for three more hours. I took three more advil. Nothing. Fuck. I tried to go to bed at 8:30 pm. I could not lay down - the pain was worse. So I stood outside and hung out until it got too cold (subzero). I tried to make myself puke but could not. I finally laid down, exhausted, but could not sleep. I told Gaucho it would be unlikely I would be up for a technical rock climb with an alpine start. Finally at around 2 or 3 am my mouth got suddenly watery. I recalled those glorious days of my youth and mass tequila consumption in Tijuana and got out of the tent mighty quick and proceeded to paint the rock wall at our tent site chili mac red. I immediately felt much relief, and, full of hope, laid down, still with a head that felt like it had been pierced by a nine inch nail from ear to ear. Eventually, at about 4:30 am I fell asleep. At 7:30 am, I awoke to the frozen inner tent condensation melting and dripping on my face. I wiped down the tent with a towel and noticed the lack of a headache. I then thought about how much it would suck to lie around all day and even worse - go home empty handed. So I drank a miso soup. It stayed down. I packed my shit and headed up the Mountaineers gully for a consolation prize at 9:00 am. Gaucho remained in camp to rest. Pano from the notch: The ascent went quickly (2:15) and I enjoyed the summit for an hour before descending to camp. KK: Summit p0rn: Gaucho at camp taken on descent: Sunset at camp: Guess what? Game on. I told Gaucho I was healthy, acclimated and ready to hate fuck the E buttress the next day. Another party of 4 arrived at camp, also planning this same route. I figured 6 was not terrible and it proved correct. We got an alpine start on Wednesday and ended up just behind said party. This caused a one hour delay in starting but they were quick and never impeded us after that. Alpine start: We cleared P1 to P6 in good form. Gaucho, leading: The crux: Gaucho at an anchor somewhere mid-route: Gaucho topping out. P6? And, again: We had trouble with P7 though - I think we went too far to the right. The consequence was some time spent with shenanigans getting back on route. And, not knowing when that would happen, we pitched out what should have been simulclimbed or just solo'd. I led 4 pitches up top where I placed one piece of pro combined. Gaucho topping out: AMS can't beat the Devil: The descend went smoothly (shit, I sussed it out just one day before). Fucking rad reflection in Iceberg Lake: View from above Lower Boy Scout Lake on the way out. Portal indeed! I really enjoyed the IPA and calzone in town. The drive back to Vegas kind of sucked though. Gear Notes: Helmet. Set of nuts, cams .5 to #3. A couple small cams. Approach Notes: Snow free.
  15. [TR] Mount Whitney - East Buttress 9/7/2016

    nothing to do with "comfort" I was just a poor planner and did not reserve a spot in Whitney Portal. My bad!
  16. Trip: Dakobed Slam - Sheepherder Trail Approach Date: 9/11/2017 Trip Report: My friend Meredith and I climbed Luahna this weekend. I have a longish history with this peak. I attempted it twice already: once in June 2014 and once in June of this year. The first time we encountered more difficult conditions than we expected and burned out by the time we summitted Clark (via the Walrus glacier). Luahna looked so far away that we opted to be satisified with one peak. The second time we got to just below point 7970 before we hit our turnaround time (also via the Walrus Glacier). On that trip we got back to the cars at 12:40 am. Uggh. We headed out of town at 6 am and started up the trail at just after 9. We were happy that the long washed-out last bit of road has been fixed and we got all the way to the White River trailhead. We made short work of the first 9 miles. The plan was to get as high up as we could with plenty of daylight, so, after a quick lunch we headed up the "sheep herder" trail out of the basin below Boulder Pass. We got to the meadows at 5800' and it was still early and there was a lot of running water about so we continued up. At 6600' it was still early and we decided to get up to the notch on the S ridge below point 8360 and see if there appeared to be water (snow patches) and flattish spots to camp. If not, we could drop back 800 feet. That proved unnecessary and we headed down the gully beyond the notch and found reasonable spots on heather benches with running water. It was early (4:45) but we opted to make this camp rather than keep pushing on. Traversing to notch below point 8360: View back down from notch: View from notch to Clark: This gave me plenty of time to drink whisky and watch the sun set. Damn! That was a luxury I've become unaccustomed to - and quite welcome. Technicolor treat: We got up at 5:30 and started up soon thereafter as dawn lit up the terrain. At the notch at 8000' I took a look over the other side. I don't know if this is technically the W face or is more like SW face. The terrain seemed doable but required a long traverse to skiers right to get over the S ridge proper and beyond. We went for it. Although it was unsavory in spots, it went just fine and we were soon under the W face of Clark proper. Some spice is nice: From here we contoured between 7500 and 7600 feet below point 7970 and under the S face of Luahna. We then ascended scree and talus and got undernewath the SW face. From here we followed our nose and found the landmarks we were looking for: a black rock step with a white line through it (to scramble up) and then a "vertical slab/rabbit ears" with a hidden gully Soon we were on the summit. Second half of the long traverse to Luahna: Way up to the Rabbit Ears: Blurry pic of the Rabbit Ears: KK on the summit of Luahna: Clark from Luahna: MM enjoying the views: View towards Glacier Peak from Luahna: After a long break we started down and retraced out steps. Looking up at the W face of Clark it seemed there was a less circuitous route up but we opted to go with the Devil we knew. We traversed even more on the ascent to climber's right and topped the spur ridge at 7800'. From here we ascended a climber's trail to the summit of Clark. Clark summit p0rn pano: After a shorter break we headed down. It took an hour to get to camp, 30 min to pack and 6 hours to hike out. My Stone IPA hit the spot at 9:45 pm and helped make the drive a bit more enjoyabe. Gear Notes: Helmet. Approach Notes: No bugs. No snow. Plenty of running water.
  17. [TR] Dakobed Slam - Sheepherder Trail Approach 9/11/2017

    speaking of Jason G... he left an interesting playing card in the summit register... choss dawgs FTW!
  18. [TR] Dakobed Slam - Sheepherder Trail Approach 9/11/2017

    JasonG will pass us both soon enough on the TR count There were showers forecast on Sat and SAt night and they seemed to have done wonders clearing the smoke. I was pleasantly surprised by the clear skies too
  19. [TR] Dakobed Slam - Sheepherder Trail Approach 9/11/2017

    Denny's is gross and bad for you. Choss piles are gross but oddly appealing, and as long as you don't die from rock fall, the exercise is good for you
  20. Stuff is on fire

  21. Wonderland trail in one push?
  22. Stuff is on fire

    The roof, the roof, the roof is on fire...
  23. Abram you are a nut!!!! But, props, dude!
  24. [TR] Formidable - South Face 8/27/2017

    Trip: Formidable - South Face Date: 8/27/2017 Trip Report: I climbed Formidable this past weekend with my friends Noel and Ed. At the TH we ran into a 3-person party that we knew who had to make a backup plan on the fly due to a new fire in the Thunder Creek area (they had planned on Logan). We ended up having a similar itinerary with them and shared the camp and parts of the climbing route. The hike in was uneventful, albeit increasingly hot from Kool Aid lake and onwards. Formidable from somewhere between Cache Col and Kool Aid lake: The Cache Glacier has a few cracks open and some icy bits but we opted to do it unroped. The Red Ledges were easily accessible by downclimbing 10 feet into a moat, skirting it a bit, then scrambling a class 3 gully. We camped in meadows just past the Red Ledges. Due to the heat and sun we retreated into our bivies for a nice siesta with extra clothing hanging from our shelters as extra shade. We enjoyed a spectacular sunset, partially thanks to the wildfires: On Sunday we got up pre-dawn, which is not that early these dog days of summer, and headed up to the Middle Cascade glacier. This one was crevassed enough to make us rope up, but other parties might be fine soloing it. The Spider-Formidable col was dry but had some steep, firm snow on the S side. I put on crampons and was glad to have done so. Descending steep snow: Views opening up from the col: After dropping a couple hundred feet we traversed snow and talus along the Ptarmigan Traverse trail until the saddle just below point 7285. From here we descended a shitty loose gully and then traversed mostly talus, with some snow then scrambled class 3 to just below a snow field. We climbed that (firm) and attained the ramps leading to the "ledges" option as described by Klenke on summit post. This was solid and easy. Then we traversed and scrambled fun class 3 to the summit. Typical scrambling on the S face: After a leisurely time enjoying the views and mutual company we headed down and got to camp by 6:30. Monday we retraced our steps from Saturday and got to the car by noon. This peak is a milestone for me: 75/100. Gear Notes: Ice axe, crampons, rope for Middle Cascade glacier. No need to belay anything or rappel. Approach Notes: One gully on the traverse along Mixup Arm is nasty to cross. Steep snow at Spider-Formidable col.
  25. [TR] Formidable - South Face 8/27/2017

    When I climbed Jack 3 years ago I thought it was great but all my partners thought the loose rock was atrocious. I may just tune it out. There were a few "widow makers" up there. I just looked for them and warned others...