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Skatan

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Posts posted by Skatan

  1. Heads up if anyones going out there I imagine there's quite a bit of stuff falling. The showering water and ice wasn't bad when we started but by the end of the day it gained speed! My first experience with the zenith that is an awesome route hope it can survive and come back this season.

  2. Trip: Stanley Headwall - Nemesis

     

    Date: 4/13/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Went up for a quick trip to the Stanley Headwall to climb Nemesis with Daniel Shaw & Joe Lind. We left after work on Friday bivied, climbed and drove home. It gave the full effect including some spindrift. Amazing route! Great time strong partners.

     

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    Gear Notes:

    Usual suspects

     

    Approach Notes:

    Skis (survival ski style if your a gumby like me)

  3. Trip: Canada -

     

    Date: 3/8/2013

     

    Trip Report:

    Went up to Field with Joe

    Pilsner

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    Super Bock

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    Oh the horror we climb on Cobras and not Nomics must be because we are from Idaho and don't know any better. :laf:

     

     

    Gear Notes:

    Screws & draws

     

    Approach Notes:

    Drive north

  4. Was out on Thursday climbed a plastic H202 then drove over to check out Clockwork Orange only to find the second pitch had fallen off. I remembered reading something about Moses Coulee being in so we decided to go check it out. Climbed Sundance Kid the ice was pretty rotten neat setting.

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  5. Went over for the weekend with Joe 19/20th, and got a chance to climb with Bob who drove out each day. We heard Shitting Razorblades was in and since Joe had done it last time it was in we figured it was a good place to start.

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    Being a trio we climbed it in three pitches Joe got us started

    1st pitch

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    I got 2nd pitch

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    Bob coming up pitch 2

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    Bob on pitch 3

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    I was last to rap while I was coming down Bob and Joe were already scoping out a line to the left off of second tier.

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    Joe decided to giver fun line to end a great day on!

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    Sunday we finished off the trip at Pee Wee's

    What a fun weekend good ice and great partners!

  6. You prob already went and tagged it but here's what I brought

    tricams pink red blue

    Cams the set I have are mixed so sz# not sure just go small med and up to 3" and you got it made. Sounds like the Camalots you have listed

    cord to sling blocks helpful also

    approach shoes good

    Giver! Have Fun!

  7. Trip: Selkirk Crest - The High Traverse

     

    Date: 8/5/2012

     

    Trip Report:

    Did the High Traverse with Joe last Sunday it was a hot one. It is casual the fin section was good you sure get a perspective of the amount of rock in the Selkirks when your up there.

    The short approach to Bee Hive Dome

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    The traverse from top of Bee Hive Dome

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    Heading to the fin

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    The fin

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    Harrison Lake nice place to cool off the feet

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    Looking back at Bee Hive Dome

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    Gear Notes:

    30M rope 3 cams & 3 tri cams

    for the fin

     

    Approach Notes:

    Follow route description in Laird NI Climbers Guide

     

  8. According to a postage scale 6oz lighter than older models per boot sz44 not sure how accurate scale is. Lighter none the less. Lower profile so toe box is different. Feet are closer to crampon so climb better I think. Warmer and the goretex is a nice feature. Older version are still an awesome boot not much they could improve on the Nepals! This is why after trying on quite a few boots I stuck with these.

    Out with the old in with the new

  9. Nepals are definately a great boot if they fit your foot. I also climb everything from volcanos to ice/mixed with them. I finally just upgarded from the older one to the newer evo this season new ones are nice. I did try the Scarpa MB also very nice close fit and similar boot just went with the nepal since I've had another pair. Extra ankle support is nice to have on long ice routes also. Either boot will will get the job done just come down to fit.

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