sean_beanntan
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Posts posted by sean_beanntan
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........ok so I found a post that i wrote a while back about Reid versus Luetholds, maybe it can help. In short, the bergshrund on the Luetholds slope is lower elevation than on the Reid which is what you can see from the Illum gap. To access the Luethols slope you have to go around or over the Reid Cleaver which can look like part of Yocum from the gap. If in doubt, keep heading west until you have to turn North, it should not be that difficult to find
.......the big mistake that people make is in low vis. There is a cleaver on the reid that in a white out looks like its part of Yokum....I know hard to believe in clear skies. When climbes reach it, they immediately turn right and head up onto the reid. You need to drop around the toe or climb through the ramp in the middle. I will post a pic if someone needs one...sometime
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The green line is part of the reid Headwall but still not the Reid headwall DIRECT climb since the green line heads east and exits on the West Crater rim. So to complete the headwall, take the smaller gully at the start to the left of the green line and go straight and then slightly left to finish either on the summit pinnicle or above the queens chair.
Hope this helps
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Climbed South Side on Wednesday morning, leaving the top of palmer at 5.30am. Good surface condtions to Upper Triangle with boot pen around 3", no crampons. Same boot pen to crater rock with isolated surface ice crust. Crater rock slope loaded with loose snow but passed shear test but not by much. So decided to hug the left side of crater rock to the hogsback, boot pen up to 12". Climb to Pearly gates good with traverse in fine shape. left gully great WI2 for 10ft. to summit. Decended West crater to Hogsback, snow on decend was soft but consolidated.
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The Grotto is an easy first well protected lead 5km from canmore, otherwise I agree Balfour and Haffner are great
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I second the suggestion, using two topes, loop one over the head of the axe to "toprope" while you place your screw. Then when the screw is placed, clip the other rope to the screw. Is it aid??, well you aint hanging on the rope unless you fall. Just dont use a daisy, not enough dynamic in the system no matter how tight you get the chain. Either way, you cant be messing around wasting time and energy.
I read a lot aboutl ice climbing on this page but how many of you have fallen on ice screws as compared to rock pro. I am guessing the fall ratio are 50:1. And Mike, the real crux is placing screws that will HOLD. That is not a given, so do what it takes to put them in good, if that means resting, so what!!
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Does the Serendipity jacket have a Hood?
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NEW Mammut Motion XCR Jacket retails approx $395 or some at Sierra trading post for $255...selling $195
NEW Mammut Motion XCR Bibs retails approx $345 ...selling $185
NEW BCA Tracker $220
Sorry but i forget how to post photos, here is a link to craigslist...sorry apologies to all
http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/571373041.html
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You need to know the wand location in a big whiteout. Sounds strange but you need to have an idea where the wand is or you will just spend tie wandering for it. You place wands every rope lenght in some areas so when you find a wand, your partner goes out a rope lenght and goes till he finds the next one. You know approx where you are looking. On big mountains you may elect to wand by elevation ie every 200 vertical feet. Again you maintain an elevation until you find the wand.
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Hi Folks, sorry about the spam, hope this is related to some of you. I am a professional Mountain guide. I am in the process of remodeling a house and need some help with a multitude of tasks like Tiling, wood floor refinishing, replacing dry rot, leaking roof, painting etc.
I can teach Rockclimbing , Rock Rescue, Mountain climbing like Mt Hood, Mt St Helens etc. Crevasse Rescue, Teach Avalanche/Snow Science. Even climbers who have been climbing for a while can benefit from instruction. Been climbing for 20 years and Mountain Rescue for 12 years.
regards, Joe 541 915 7520
House in NE Portland near Killingsworth and Interstate.
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Ok Steve, just give me a call at 541 915 7520
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I posted a pic of the pants in the for sale section of the gallery. Someday i will figure a way to add it to the post. I will throw in a pair of mammut suspenders if I can find them.
the thermorest is the model before the prolite 3 and 4 series ie without the dimple pattern. No patches and in excellent condition. comes with a granite gear stuff sack.
the sleeping bag is about 3 years old and has been used as a light weight bivy bag.
if you not happy with the buy, just return it asap for money back minus the shipping.
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Sorry about the lack of size data on the Champ pants. They are a medium mammuth 46 I think. They fit me at 30 waist 32 inseam although they might also fit a 31/33 or close combo. I can post a pic of the tear tomorrow but its approx 1cm long. Mammuth recommend just leaving the tear alone rather than using seam grip to repair. Although you could simply patch it.
On the hummingbird bag, its a dryloft outer.
Hope this helps
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featheredfriends hummingbird sleeping bag for sale. asking $160 retails $334. Excellent condition.
http://www.featheredfriends.com/ProductDetails.aspx?productId=2&CatId=1&ProductName=Hummingbird
Pair of Medium Mammuth Champs, slight tear in one leg (crampon)
$40, can email pic if request
Thermorest 3/4 light $30 great deal, excellent condition.
shipping costs not included, or pick up in Portland
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It was snowing above Timberline yesterday, high winds meant the the boot pack was filling in within an hour or so. So the gully will have wind deposition from Yokum. Plus lots of rime from the w/e. Having said that, there is no real way of knowing until you get there. Look for decent freezing or the Reid traverse will be tiresome. I will be on th ehill wed/thursday and can give you more info then
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Just climbed the Luetholds on Wednesday and its in great condition. No big runnels. Some breakable crust getting to the hourglass but styroform after that. Exits on the right in fun condition. Enjoy.
ps the big mistake that people make is in low vis. There is a cleaver on the reid that in a white out looks like its part of Yokum....I know hard to believe in clear skies. When climbes reach it, they immediately turn right and head up onto the reid. You need to drop around the toe or climb through the ramp in the middle. I will post a pic if someone needs one...sometime
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Dont stay in line, climb the Reid Headwall and decend West Crater Rim. Excellent condition at the moment
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All good questions. If the second falls and he falls by you, there is tremendous force placed on the second. In rock climbing, it can "equate" to a factor 2 fall potential. Enough force to rip you out of your stance and even blow a snow picket. The snow up there is a combination of ice crust and sugar which makes very weak anchors. What you did was not incorrect but the last person down has no real protection and is in a no fall situation. That is fine if you are aware that is the case. An alternate is for you to place a picket on the way down to limit a fall, he removes it as he downclimbs. Another option is to decend the west crater rim which last w/e had less ice and is not as steep. It is very difficult to arrest a fall above the Shrund. The conditions are usually ice and in the chute, the ground is covered in shards of rime ice that offer no purchase for the pick. Also there are so much bootprints that the pick can easily pull out during self arrest when it hits one.
A fun route fof your both would be west crater rim using snow pickets to ensure that if either climbers falls and fails to self arrest, there is another attachment to the hill.
pm me if you need more info
Your options may be
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Looking at your photo, another option is to continue around to the saddle between North and Middle and start climbing the ridge from there. That way you will be be climbing on snow the whole time and you wont have any rock or gendarme issues until the hump. You traverse the mountain more to start the climb buts its quick travel and certainly the recommended way to decend
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eldiente, when you say falling down the mountain, exactly how many feet did the group fall. "Had it not been for the guide"....thats redundant. They would not have been there without the guide so your point?. If you noticed, I changed to a belayed lower after a discussion with my client. West Crater is not the Pearly gates, there is plenty of room to decend. How many people were long roping this w/e without placing pickets? Do you seriously think that the rope would help a fall on the steep icy sections with so much slack and stretch.
Anyway, If someone wants to start another tread, I can write some more. On the "famous incident" that you wrote about, I was first rescuer on scene. I was also first on scene last year when 3 climbers fell above the shrund. I am very realistic when it comes to climbing on the hill and the level of control that is needed.
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I am assuming that you hiked in from Pole Creek and that you climbed the south ridge on the East Side. Once you accend the ridge from the col, where the ridge starts to flatten out, start looking for the entrance onto the west face. The big thing is not to traverse too far. There are 2 traverse pitches usually. Then start looking for a vertical step of about 10ft that marks the entrance into the bowling alley aka the 4th class gully to the top. Stay to the right in the gully heading toward the south pinnicle and where it flattens out, traverse to the true summit to the north. Recommend bringing some cord to use as slings for protection.
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Motomaqik, this is not the thread to debate climbing techniques, so apologies to all the other readers. I am a member of the American Mountain Guides Association, AMGA. It is their technique and some research will show you the list of amazing climbers/guides that are part of this organization . Your email also seesm to imply that the team was at risk which I clearly resent. My job as a guide is to manage risk, reduce it to an acceptable level for my clients and create/maintain control. Any uncertainty came from climbers outside of my rope team.
To answer ECJ questions, the climbers were trying to climb Luetholds and could not find the correct entrance gully. If you leave the Reid glacier too early, you start climbing the Reid Headwall which is more difficult. The weather on Saturday did produce cloud and rain and snow late in the am/pm so that visibility did decrease for the climbers. To access the Reid, you cross onto the west side of the mountain away from all the light on the southside. In fact you cant see the southside route once you are on Luetholds. That said there were other groups climbing Luetholds that morning that may have thier own lights.
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It depends on the snow conditions. This time of year, its possible to drop off the south ridge onto the west slope a little earlier, see Jeff Thomas guide on page 98(although if you are asking this question, maybe you dont have access to the book and I can send you the page). I was in teh Sisters last Thursday and so saw similar conditions to you. Later on in the season, you climb higher on the south ridge before the traverse due to the rotten loose rock. You then have to basically drop down on the west side of the hump, traverse on the west side before again gaining the south ridge and then a small traverse of the east face.
Hope this helps
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Motomaqik
"rope team" of 5 people tied 5 feet apart from each other, literally, slipping and sliding down the west crater... seriously the one girl fell 5 times"
Hmm, that was me. I am a guide and in case you dont recognize the short rope technique, that was it in practice. Short rope is based on the fact that the guide catches a slip or loss of balance before it becomes a fall. There is no slack or rope stretch in the sysyem to produce a dynamic force since clients are tied approx 7or 8ft apart. When short rope becomes unsuitable, the guide changes to belayed climbing, like you saw me do. The client slipped but did you notice how far they fell...the fall was arrested immediately, without the guide moving out of position.
I also remember asking you not to down climb directly above me. If you were to fall then you would have hit my group. There was no need for you to decend directly above us on an open slope like west crater rim.
Climbers on this web site know my qualifications and my climbing/guiding ability so I wont bother to list. But I have also done mountain rescue for 12 years. I am a volunteer and have never beeen paid for this work. I dont complain, our creed is mountain safety through rescue and education. Hopefully climbers of all experience will learn something from this mission that will prevent a more serious situation in the future. I do not want people to be charged for a rescue since it may stop them from asking for help when they need it.
The "girl" in question enlisted the expertise of a guide because she realized that the climb was outside her own personal ability which is to be applauded. She was tired but motivated and dug deep to summit. Her effort was inspiring.
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Blurpy, nice photos, Hope you dont mind a quick question but I notice that there was no protection placed in the chute on the down climb. If this is correct, what is the reason for the rope?. Sorry but seems if the climber fell, the rope team is going for a ride...based on my visual past experience....of course, he could be the highly skilled leader after belaying the other climbers down.
NEW Medium Charcoal Arcteryx Alpha SV Bibs
in The Yard Sale
Posted
NEW, ie never worn, Medium Charcoal Arcteryx Alpha SV Bibs
Great for climbing or skiing.
Retails for $510.00!!! selling for $262.00 although I did include a link that sells for $360 + shiping
http://www.trailspace.com/gear/arcteryx/alpha-sv-bib/