sean_beanntan
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Posts posted by sean_beanntan
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Looks like a nice jacket, would you be interested in a trade?, got lots of gear from Petzl Sonic Ice screws, G14 crampons, Wild Things Backpack to new metolius cams and lots more
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Kiss of the leper is now closed til June
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My information is that it was a ski patrol trigger and that it failed on a melt freeze crust and then on a rain crust and not a facet layer.
... as per Meadows " The initial slab was one cohesive unit which failed from under a more recent melt-freeze crust probably from the middle of February. As the slab moved down through Super Bowl it scoured down revealing the MLK rain crust."
Water, on your question, remember that the ground surface is around 32F, so that in the PNW, snow buried deep tends to be near that temp in winter. If there is a low temp gradient then rounding and consolidation will happen even deep down in the pack.
Also remember that snow is a good insulator but ice is a good conductor of heat....just to mess with your head
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Justin, these are nice tools, own a pair but would like some spares, any chance you need a trade, I have some
Laser Sonics ice screws
Grivel G14 crampons
Wild Things Andinista Back Pack
Metolius cams
etc
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Hmm I would also be interested in how some folks view this, my take on your question.
The slide was not a natural trigger so that the weak layer may have consolidated without external trigger. If the layer is failing on a large facet layer, it will take a long time to consolidate. The main process going on is changes to the thermal Gradient inside the pack. Warm overnight temps for the next week will eventually strenghten that deeper layer rather then a freeze cycle (imo)
http://avalancheinfo.net/fixed/weather/glossaries/advanced/advdefs/metamorphism.html
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You can also camp at Twin Rocks 9150ft 601670E 5023990N and save the traversing
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Hmm why does the road close?
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CTM 17 at 18cm Q1 SC, hmm reminds me of this you tube, similar pit results for folks who are not sure of what the data means
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Just wanted to add that we started the California Ice day in the dark because our aim was to climb to the plateau, makes it it a long day. The book talks about a creek (which was covered by snow) and the approach gully is not easily seen from the trail. That thigh deep champagne snow covering tree downs and 2 boulder fields was a choice way to start the day. Fun climbing as always with the Man from Stanwood.
here are some more photo
Sceptor Rap
California Ice
Climbing higher
Cleo's 2nd pitch
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Jake, in climbing Rainier fitness counts for sure. On good sunny days with a lot of luck that might be all you need, esp climbing with a nice bootpack, maybe even follow behind a guided party....though guided groups may turn back for many reasons and what do you do then?. You could follow other headlamps out in front but now you are following people who you have never even met!!!...believe me folks do this and while there is nothing wrong with doing so, but it does increase your exposure
So here are a few ? you should ask answer before looking for a leader
Can u navigate through a crevasse field. decide on the integrity of a snow bridge?
Feel comfortable navigating through a possible whiteout thro same crevasse field.?
Feel that you can arrest a climber that has fallen into a crevasse, then build a system to get him out?
How would you feel about giving up so much control to someone that you hardly know, how do you know that you can trust his decision making esp in bad conditions?
What is your MO in case of a accident, what are your resources, first aid etc
I agree that not everyone has the money to hire a guide service but you are paying for a level of security that if the shit hits the fan is worth every penny. Its kinda like car insurance that you pay every year and never use hopefully. In hiring a guide, figure some of the cost as insurance in case all of the above situations happen. Otherwise maybe you are a dentist or chiropractor, car mechanic etc and some one out there needs their teeth or car fixed....most likely a lot of climbers ha ha
There are other beautiful mountains that are not as committing such as Baker, Shuksan, Shasta, Hood. Why not try one of them first as a group, maybe show up a day early and get a guide to teach you some skills that you may not have.
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Is there anything you would trade for?
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I was on the summit on Monday, nice late start had us on the summit at 3pm..Yea for cold weather climbing!!! temp inversion kept temps nicely in the 20's, winds upper teens on summit. Groomed slopes made for good skinning. Stached skis at Palmer, boot pen to 10,100 variable from surface to 8". Top layer light snow with poor bonding but no big wind layer. Snow Pit at 10,300 SE aspect on 30 degrees failed at 23cm on a Q1 CT 26. Bond failed on a rounding surface. LIttle energy or propagation observed in pit. Another smaller pit revealed similar. Bootpack to hogsback is a low traverse with 2 traverses from hogsback to west crater, lower traverse just above the hot rocks seemed the better option. A little ice step in 2 oclock gully has climbers heading straight up to the rim. Bergshrund open on the left but good snow bridge, hogsback spine even more to the left than last year. A good day on the hill for sure
However seems like the weather is changing
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Wire gates seem to me to be easier to gets the screws in and out, I go with a BD Oval biner with wire gate, seems to work fine
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Hey the patch comes attached to the arm, well at least to the R1 Hoody, what can I say Mr Iain, Its hard to get off the patch....... esp when its cold outside.
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Great TR Chris but you left out a photo of the "Drumstick" which had me wanting my brown trousers for sure. It was a proud lead on the wet verticality.
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Maine-iac, Holk was commenting on a group climbing that he saw?, I was commenting on a technique to explain the group but you are commenting on a single photo at 1/8 of a second? I agree while there appears to be slack in the rope, its a photo of an instant in time, maybe if he knew he was being observed, he would have done it better.
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Holk, "my biggest beef was with these groups of roped climbers who didn't know what they were doing."
What do you mean by your comment? The photo looks like a guided group, the guide is in the back as a anchor. The technique is called short roping, check out the AMGA, IFMGA sites. Under certain conditions this is the best way to climb up and down the mountain. Its based on low dynamic loading, semi static falls, no rope stretch, no snow touching slack in the rope.
Before a climber falls fast and has to self arrest, he loses his balance, slips, falls and then falls out of control, Short roping catches the loss of balance or the slip before it becomes a fall. This is far more effective than "long ropers" climbing with no pickets, (they dont count if they stay on your pack) separated by 60 feet of rope with bundles of slack in their hands...which they will immediately drop if they fall, creating even more slack.
If you still think this technique is unsafe, check out how many guided accidents there have been on Mt Hood versus independent climbers. Its about control and not the illusion of control that matters
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Two men have been rescued from the Red Wall climbing area of Smith Rock State Park.
KTVZ-TV reports 24-year-old Ian Wallace Carlsen of Puyallup, Wash., called 9-1-1 at about 6:45 p.m. Saturday to report that he and 22-year-old Russell Scott Howard of Gresham were stranded.
Both had been rappelling and had underestimated the amount of rope they needed to descend the wall. Carlsen was stranded about 250 feet from the bottom and Howard was stranded about 200 feet from the bottom.
Deschutes County Sheriff's Office Search and Rescue members climbed to the top of the Red Wall and lowered two mountain rescue members over the edge .
The stranded men were attached to the mountain rescue members and lowered the rest of the way to bottom of the Red Wall. Neither was injured.
-- Associated Press
Link: http://www.oregonlive.com/gresham/index.ssf/2010/11/gresham_man_rescued_smith_rock.html
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Arcteryx Alpha SV Bib NE Mens Medium, new, retails for $500, selling for $275 plus shipping
Wild Things Andinista Backpack, Size L Great condition, removable waist, $85 plus shipping, retails new about $360
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Its 3 years old and in good condition. It did have a tear near the door (crampon step) that has been repaired at the factory. For that reason I would like to show the tent before selling, I live in Portland. But at $300, plus shipping, It s a great deal....i think
I just put the tent up on the porch, if the local park was dry, that would have worked better but I cant wait til May There are 2 factory repairs shown.
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Lowe Dr Strangegloves, Yea Anyone remember these? Awesome Warm glove, Size Large barely used great condition $40
Metolius Power Cams NEW SIze 1,2,3,4 selling set for $130
These are single ski bags that are cool for those ski racks that connect to the tire like Jeep Wrangler etc. Anyhow, the ski get real beat up and dirty from the road and this setup saves the ski, wax etc. Fit a ski 172cm width 11cm
I have 2 setups selling for $25 each, Shipping not included but pickup from portland would work
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My one advice, only use one daisy chain. If the aid is not difficult, your fifi is probably connected directly to harness. So you are then using the daisy chains to safeguard dropping each set of aiders, You run the risk of having a daisy chain on the lower piece as well as the upper piece at the same time. If that happens and the upper piece pulls, you fall onto the lower static daisy chain....ouch and the rope through the lower piece is not going to do you any dynamic good.
I say this because I have seen this bad technique used several times.
comments? anyone? anyone?
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Prices do not include shipping sorry but I live in Portland if you want to pick up
Silveretta EasyGo Bindings, good condition, used one year, Size Medium $145 SOLD
Ski Crampons $25 SOLD
Simond Naja Ice tools, read the reviews, these are awesome, newish unfiled picks $250
Scarpa Liners 27.5 $10
2 X Avalung Pro never used, originally had small backpack attachment but cannot find hence the price $25 each
Thermarest no punctures 3/4 lenght $20
Candle and Reflector $15
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Ok so I did a search and could not find the link to "load photos for dummies" can anyone out there post a link thanks
WTB: Need Gear for Denali
in The Yard Sale
Posted
I have some new gear that I am not going to need.
I have a pair of NEW Feathered Friends Volant pants Medium that I would sell for $165, new $260 -$320
NEW Feathered Friends Volant Jacket size L sell for $225, new $350 - $400
Also NEW one piece NF polarguard suit Medium that I would sell for $125.
Also NEW Marmot Down Gloves Large $60 sells for $100+
Heavy duty cargo bags designed with loops to fit and tie onto plastic sled $50
Can send photos if interested in any.