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Everything posted by sean_beanntan

  1. 5 climbers missing on Hood

    Motomaqik "rope team" of 5 people tied 5 feet apart from each other, literally, slipping and sliding down the west crater... seriously the one girl fell 5 times" Hmm, that was me. I am a guide and in case you dont recognize the short rope technique, that was it in practice. Short rope is based on the fact that the guide catches a slip or loss of balance before it becomes a fall. There is no slack or rope stretch in the sysyem to produce a dynamic force since clients are tied approx 7or 8ft apart. When short rope becomes unsuitable, the guide changes to belayed climbing, like you saw me do. The client slipped but did you notice how far they fell...the fall was arrested immediately, without the guide moving out of position. I also remember asking you not to down climb directly above me. If you were to fall then you would have hit my group. There was no need for you to decend directly above us on an open slope like west crater rim. Climbers on this web site know my qualifications and my climbing/guiding ability so I wont bother to list. But I have also done mountain rescue for 12 years. I am a volunteer and have never beeen paid for this work. I dont complain, our creed is mountain safety through rescue and education. Hopefully climbers of all experience will learn something from this mission that will prevent a more serious situation in the future. I do not want people to be charged for a rescue since it may stop them from asking for help when they need it. The "girl" in question enlisted the expertise of a guide because she realized that the climb was outside her own personal ability which is to be applauded. She was tired but motivated and dug deep to summit. Her effort was inspiring.
  2. Mt Hood Cnditions

    Blurpy, nice photos, Hope you dont mind a quick question but I notice that there was no protection placed in the chute on the down climb. If this is correct, what is the reason for the rope?. Sorry but seems if the climber fell, the rope team is going for a ride...based on my visual past experience....of course, he could be the highly skilled leader after belaying the other climbers down.
  3. Arc'teryx, Alpha SV Bib NEW

    Arc'teryx, Alpha SV Bib Mens NEW size medium, color charcoal for sale. Still in packaging. Cost is $262 plus shipping or better yet, pick up in Portland Expensive sure is but still the deal since retail is $425.
  4. Mt. Jefferson

    When the summit tower is melted out, you dont really need rock pro since the easiest route is 4th class or easy 5th. Either way, there is rock pro if needed. The technical part of Jefferson is the steep snow traverses which can also be protected
  5. Mt St Helens

    Skied Mt St Helens fron summit yesterday. Started from Marble Mtn car snowpark and went via the Worm Flows. Snow level is down to the 244c trail or about 15 mins from the car. Ski conditions yesterday were excellent even with the warm temps and high freezing level. Snowpack was consolidated, no weak layers observed, good bonding. Great corn conditions and when the corn collapsed, it was still steep enough to drive the extra 3-4 inches. Sweet!!
  6. Mt Hood South Face

    Sorry i did not to post this for the sunday climbers but here are the conditions for saturday surface cooling and medium 15-25mph, winds produced a good breakable crust with boot pen to 6-8". Coming down from the summit there is a good bootpack to palmer. Most climbers using left chute. right chute of pearly gates in great condition. Decended using west crater rim to hogsback. Great conditions on decent, good boot pack on accent. Under surface crust is about 18" of sugar with little consolidation. Recent warming producing wet slides on Thursday and Friday. Just to recap, the right chute of the Pearly gates does not have a 70 degree ramp as reported, its a small WI2 series of 3 steps about 4 ft each. No biggie if you can climb alpine ice.
  7. Mt Hood South Face

    Quick note, been seeing some climbers placing vertical pickets below the Pearly gates on Saturday. These pickets were placed in snow consisting of a ice crust and sugar snow. Hmmmmm......try using T slots with a vertical backup if you want the anchor to do its job and hold a fall.
  8. Mt St Helens

    Thanks for the switch, but can I still post my Beacon Rock reports in the Oregon section. Any megalight trips lately?
  9. WTB: "Beginner" Gear: Crampons Ax Pack Tent

    New (in box) BCA tracker Avalanche Beacon for sale $225
  10. G12's or Sabretooth

    Sounds just like me. Got on some WI5 stuff in the Ghost and still used my Sabretooths. Left the G14's in the Car.
  11. WTB: G12 or sabertooth

    I have a pair of Sabertooths that I can sell you. I have a NEW pair with the Toe strap that I will sell for $115 or an older used pair for $40.
  12. Slide show Wed, Mar 28th

    Hey Chris, I dont believe that I am going to miss another slide show. I will be in Yosemite next week and then Red Rocks for a while. Joe
  13. [TR] Mt. Hood south side - 3/16/2007

    Jamin, sorry but i have a problem with "I am very confident with my self-arrest skills, and I have had plenty of practice in the past 3 years that I have been snow climbing" Now I have been climbing for 20 years, have climbed LR and I am not very confident with my self arrest skills. Self arrest is over rated and is extremely difficult to achieve on a steep icy slope. The area in and below the Pearly gates is littered with rime ice particles that makes the footing very unstable even with crampons. It feels like you are walking on giant particles of sugar and self arrest is not an option. I climbed to the summit on Sunday and so know the conditions. I have also seen people try to self arrest and not stop on Hood, the rest of the tale is a sad one. Also if you manage to self arrest , all you need to do is have the pick find one small boot depression, pop out and the wild ride starts all over again. How many boot prints are on the upper slope above the hogsback? Self arrest happens when you have lost control. Stay in control like climbers should. Hope this helps, have fun out there
  14. Must Have Denali Gear

    Bring a Umberella.....seems silly but the sun can be opressive at 11,200 or 14,000. Yes I know you can hang a tarp from the snow walls but that can be difficult and the sun moves. A small Umberella is sweet sitting outside your tent. Also an insulated French press for those social gatherings at 14,000. You can bater almost anything for a hot cup of Joe at ABC
  15. New BD Megalight, still in packaging, retails $234, selling $150 Bibler Tripod yellow, great condition, retails $299 selling $160 NEW Mens T4 Scarpa Boots Size US10, UK9 EU43, Scarpa28 retails $289 selling $155. New BCA Tracker Avalanche Beacon $225 Vestibule and netting for Bibler Ahwahnee plus extra tent poles...make offer or trade, vestibule is $134 new and this one is in good condition with one small patch Ground Cloth for Bibler Ahwahnee..make offer or trade Radio, Bendix King Model EPH5141, includes Mic, Great Condition, extra battery case, $140 obo MSR Heat Exchanger retails $39 selling $15 Can email a photo if needed, gear in Portland Area
  16. Ice in CANADA

    Hi does anyone have any recent reports on the ice conditions in Canada eps in the Ghost or Field ro Canmore or the parkway. Sure would appreciate it. Any good current sites, even Will Gadd's site is a little old for TR's Thanks
  17. Pearly Gates vs. Old Chute on Mount Hood southside

    The step is steep but not vertical and usually appears between Nov and December and is about 15-20ft. It then disappears under a bunch of snow. This is happening as I write this. So when are you climbing?. If ts it in April or May , it should be a non issue.
  18. spring break climbing!

    Hi: Just curious about "Everybody raves about red rocks, but tI think there's better" What have you climbed down there to give you this opinion.. For me Red Rocks is about No Vegas strip since I need to be up at 5am to hit the climbs like Black Orpheus, Birdhunter Buttress, Black Velvet Canyon etc. How about a combo of Dark Shadows and Y2K for a complete day of climbing?
  19. Where's all the Oregon TRs????

    Thats because we are climbing in Canada and Washington
  20. Ice in CANADA

    There is a good hostel in Banff called Banff International Hostel or more fancy but never been there called The HI Banff Alpine Centre Hostel. The Alpine Hut in Canmore is also a good bet. It depends on how many climbers you have. We pack about 4 into the Drake Inn in Canmore and its a cheap sweet setup close to food and beer.
  21. Ice in CANADA

    Thanks for all the beta, here is how the trip went. I can post more details later or just ask more questions Feb 16th Haffner Creek, good Ice conditions, lots of climbers mixing it up Feb 17th Moonlight, Evan Thomas Ck on h/w 40, good shape, picked Feb 18th Balfour Wall, just like Haffner, good group site Feb 19th Louise Falls, Fat but no plastic Feb 20th Snowline, Evan Thomas Ck on h/w 40, good shape, picked Feb 21th Candlestick Maker in the Ghost, great shape Feb 22th The Sorcerer, in the Ghost, great shape Feb 23th Wicked Wanda, in the Ghost WI5 shape out of cave. It snowed a lot up there but access to the ghost was good, climbing temps around 10F....no sun on the routes. We parked the camper at the base of the hill and drove a jeep to the climbs. Access times to climbs in the ghost match the guide book ie Sorcerer about 2 hours. I notice no one mentions the sweet hottubing at the White Swan hot springs. Nothing better than a soak after 8 days on the ice. Dont pass this place up, about 10 miles south of Canal Flats Hope this helps,
  22. Mammut XCR Motion Jacket and Pants

    New Mammut XCR Motion Jacket Size small Color Blue/Cinder New Mammut XCR Motion pants Size small Color Cinder http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?view=detail&did=122&dart=4&tid=4915&sid=2&picture=Motion_XCR_JA_dive_bild1.jpg http://www.mammut.ch/mammut/katalog.asp?view=detail&did=122&dart=4&tid=5491&sid=2 Looking to trade for New gear Size Medium. Will consider other trades or cash. Sweet gear just too small. Can send photo on request.
  23. Mammut XCR Motion Jacket and Pants

    The pants are still available. On the trade, I am open to suggestions, I climb, run, bike, cook, ski etc.
  24. Mt. Hood bivy sites

    Because of the recent rain crust and the ice layer and lqaack of snow, its difficult to find deep enough pockets to build a cave before you get to 10,300ft on Hood, (platform near the old engine). The Hogsback is a good place but you need to get to 10,500ft. Illumination saddle is an amazing location for a cave, just build on the west side on the snow ridge, dont go onto the Reid side. "heavy snow on top of pretty consolidated snow isn't safe as it can shear off easily." .....a heavy layer on top of a weak layer can create a weak shear but if the snow underneath is consolidated then in Oregon, we call that a good layer..most of the time. The two things to consider are the bonding of each layer and the composition of each layer. "And to avoid West Crater Rim as it's a high avy site"." .....It is not a high avy site but has higher avy potential then the south slope. There is a difference. I have been on the slope in a low avy condition. It gets crosswinds and pillows that can remain for a long time after a storm. Hope this helps
  25. Found Ice Axe on Mt Hood Jan 29th

    Found Ice Axe on Mt Hood Jan 29th on the heinous south face. Describe and its yours. 541 915 7520