sean_beanntan

I posted this in the newbie section but included it here as well since it mentions Mt Hood. Hope this helps some folk recognize the limitations of technology, how it can help but also give us false security. Its does not reflect the view of the mountain rescue community just my own. http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6942483/ A friend pointed out that maybe I should make a true v false list of the statements but I assume folks can do that on their own

hope this helps some folk recognize the limitations of technology, how it can help but also give us false security. Its does not reflect the view of the mountain rescue community just my own. http://www.xtranormal.com/watch/6942483/ A friend pointed out that maybe I should make a true v false list of the statements but I assume folks can do that on their own!!

A note for anyone that climbed the Reid Glacier routes this year. The subjects just became visible (ie meltout) last weekend on the mountain due to the high snow year. It would not have been possible for any climber to have found them in the normal course of climbing any earlier in the year.

Hmm you must have seen our steps since we climbed it in calmer winds 20, 21 of july. I have climbed it in much steeper and icer conditions but still a fun route. We managed to find a entry onto the northwest slope at 9300ft and descend on snow, so so much more pleasant

Climbed Thursday and got a Sudden Planar, Q1 at 9800ft on 28 degrees, S aspect 30cm down at 5am. It failed on the melt freeze layer from Sunday. Observed 30cm - 50cm of snow from the Tues-Wed storm cycle. Thursday had a inversion with snow temp 6 inches down -5C at 8500ft and -2 at 9800ft. NOW the good news, by Saturday night, Sunday morning, the bonding at the same location was in good shape. Got a CT 26 on a Q2+. Good solid conditions observed up high on the hill and we climbed to the summit via old chute. Conditions should remain good through this week, planning on climbing myself Tuesday night/Wed morning. Hope this helps

Hi Folks, just a quick update. The subject was skiing up Snowdome in a group of five. As they got near the top of Snowdome, weather clouds came in and reduced visibility. Snowdome looks like a triangular moraine in that it is wide at the base and narrow at the top. The top of the dome also gets a little steeper on the climbers right. In the low vis, the subject traversed, (out of sight of the others) a little more to the right than normal, unaware of the opening exposure to the Coe Glacier and the slightly steeper incline. At the top of the dome, when the subject failed to appear, the remainder of the party began a search. It appears that he fell while still skining upwards. Attempts at bringing the subject down from the mountain on Wednesday were hampered by high winds, blowing snow and no visibility. (The litter at one stage lifted several feet off the ground acting as a kite for a few seconds)

Hmm, me, I guess. I will try to post some pics today. basically the West Crater slide started from a point release off Castle Crags and ran past Illumination Saddle to around 8,500ft. Clearly visible are the 2 slab layers as reported last week. 3 Slides zones observed in Devils Kitchen, that covers E, SE and SW aspects. Not sure when slides happened. Hogsbacks slid below Pearly gates, no sign of activity observed higher on the old chute area....ie upper reaches still loaded with unstable layers. Snow bonding is failing on wet, rotten snow, any facets appear to have saturated producing slush. Digging pits required chopping through a thick ice layer as it appeared to have rained up to at least 10,300ft. Joe PMR

Just heard that 2 male climbers did not return from a climb yesterday morning. Search initiated this am.

For all the newer climbers out there, climbing is not like a marathon at all imo sorry. In fact some of my most difficult clients are marathon runners who cant seem to pace themselves to anything after 7 hours, most climbs last 7 - 12. Its been my experience that hiking up to the day of the climb is fine and awesome. For climbers trying to get fit, hiking and especially cycling seem to work best....but this is only my opinion, different body types need different workout routines. I have seen a off the couch client summit Baker after working out everyday for 2 weeks right up to the climb.

Dane, thanks for the the report, I agree on the conditions and have seen lots of instability on Hood. Got turned back at upper triangle this w/e, low vis, winds and snow but the big issue was a CT13 Q2 at 12 inches and a CT21 Q2 at 30 inches, SE Facing on 28 degrees, repeatable, also breakable crust from 6 to knee deep. I expect similar readings on Rainier. Was hoping to climb later this week but my plans are a changing.

Hi, I tried to sell this stuff a few weeks ago and then left for vacation, sorry to the folks that contacted me, maybe you still need the gear, so here it is. I will also have some other gear like a Bendix King Radio, Hilleberg Nallo GT tent, Bibler Tripod and some more rock gear that I will try to get pics of. Also sorry about the links and not posting pics directly on cascade, is this an accepted form for selling ie craigslist???, Metolius cams #1,2,3,4 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1676246172.html Bibler Ahwahnee Vestibule, bug netting, Groundcloth, spare poles http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1676188653.html BD Avalung, NF Cerro Torre,onepiece suit, Scarpa Thermo liners, Grit Gardz Ski bag http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1676182850.html Petzl Rope, Shovel, Ice screws, Simond Ice tools http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1676060992.html Silvretta Bindings, ski crampons, Scarpa AT boots 28.5 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1676052263.html Thanks for looking, Joe

Yea, the #4 is not much use since the crak is so wide, careful when walking up a piece, I always seem to walk it up a little too far and after I pass it, it wobbles and wants to walk. Saying that I would just take a #6 if you had it, you can walk it much higher.

For anyone wishing to get info on ecuador, I guide there each december, here is my blog, feel free to ask questions regarding hotels, transport etc joeowens.wordpress.com

Hey Chris , you forgot to mention the old DMM bulldog that you placed. Also, that I in my lazy haze, I did not take out the pins so they are there for the next climber visit. For the Scottish climbers on Cascade, the warthog stayed at home. Sure was nICE climbing with you as always,

I am interested and live in PTown, any chance of a trade, what do you need in the line of climbing , camping equipment, stove, crampons etc. I got lots of stuff

Dont waste your time on the single pitch sport stuff, the trad routes are where its at esp the mulitpitch routes like frogland, dark shadows, geronimo, johnny vegas. Getting into higher grades, black orpheus, bulah's book, refried brains, fridgeraire buttress, Y2K, ginger cracks, power failure, all good. No reason 3 climbers cant travel as fast as 2 climbers on most routes so dont let that stop you. Coffee bean has free wifi

Opps thanks for the notice, guess I should have drank some coffee this morning

Sorry Everyone, had trouble loading pics so just included the craigslist links, hope its not too much hassle. Trying to offload gear for a truck repair. Prices dont include shipping, Thanks for looking For sale Lightly used pair of Silvretta Easy Go 500 bindings with leashes retails anywhere from $280 - $350 selling for $145 Crampons for Bindings retails $65 selling for $30 Ortovox Lexan shovel $20 NEW Grivel Laser Sonics 21cm retails $52, selling $36 Used Ice screws Black Diamond, 3x22cm, $15 each Titanium Ice screws, 3 for $10 sold http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1625224540.html Silvretta 404 bindings mounted on a pair of Rossignol Nepal 173cm $110 SOLD Crampons for binding $12 SOLD Used set of skins, avg condition condition but it will get you started. $10 Scarpa Avant AT boots size 28.5 $70 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1625177118.html Pair of Naja Simond Tools, 45cm Great Condition, scratched of course!! but newish picks $245 . Do some gear reviews on these axes to see how awesome they are!!! Pair of Moser Crampons S12 Used $55 SOLD Black Diamond 50cm X15cm, rubber shaft, great condition, $45 Kong Aluminum Crampons, sorry no pic at the moment $20 SOLD http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1625288655.html NEW Rope , still in packing, Petzl Nomad 9.8. Retail, $225 selling for $141. Dmm Walnuts NEW, sizes, 3,4,5,6,7,8,10 $40 SOLD Metolius Nuts NEW 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 $45 http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/spo/1625200253.html

Anyone out there want to sell or trade some AT gear, looking for size 28 boots, something like Scarpa Spirit. Also looking for AT skis, light around 163cm ish with dynafit bindings. Will pay cash or trade ice tools, ice screws, new petzl rope, lots of rock stuff, just ask

Hey with all this interest in self rescue, I would be willing to teach a class at Ozone WA, near Portland sometime in the near future for anyone that is interested. As reference, I am a full time climbing guide and PMR member for 15 years. It would have to be midweek and involve rock rescue which is easily transferred to CR, we would cover the basics, escaping the belay, munter/mule tie off, rap to subject, ascend back up, 3/5 : 1 raise and a tandem rapell

Pm sent for a Nallo GT

I have a pair mounted on a pair of 173cm Rossi Nepal. I have some old worn skins that would at least get you started. I live in Portland. Yours for $100 plus shipping or pick up

Lost a leash while descending from Superbock. It from a Petzl Quark, thanks,

I have heard that there was no whistle blowing at all, is this true? Given the distance, it might be even impossible for a whistle to be heard. I know that press reporting has many errors and there is a sign that this is another one. It seems very probable that he died on impact. On the subject of self rescue and partner responsibility, its complicated. For example, I know climbers who multipitch on rock that dont know how to escape a belay Tie off with a munter/mule descend to subject and treat with first aid Asscend rope, convert to raise/lower Tandem rap All executed in a timely and organized manner!!

sorry but I left on a trip and am just getting back to town. The tent is Red and 2 years old. Its in good condition, I can send a few photos later this week if you want. If you are not happy and return it straight away I will refund you minus shipping. The tent retails for $645 and I am selling this one for $350 plus shipping Joe