Adam_Palmer

The gap in between Canadian and American Border peaks

The gap in between Candian and American Border peaks

Had a fun day climbing High Mountain Woody on the upper malamute...nice crack shot thought I would share

Actually, its just a tiny little spire on the approach to the border peaks from the south side, sitting in the grassy alpine meadow about 5800ft, the little spire is a cool little 70ft climb, that is if you bust some moves on the face, if not, you can scramble up one side of it, but it makes for some good pics...

so I found out that boulders bite back...enough to open a wound and gouge enough flesh out for me to see all layers of flesh... 28 stiches later...Bouldering deserves more respect. When I told people i got this wound from bouldering they were like...what? just bOuldering?...I was like ya, obviously you never bouldered...Its all what you put into it! Sometimes you give 110%, and sometimes the boulder will take some percentage back out of you!...or is it just me? Anyways, a good day of bouldering at Elbow Lake after turning back on a climb cause some climbers were nice enough to spend their time cleaning routes, we decided to boulder for the rest of the day...and then spend some time at the Mission Hospital.

So, after attempting the far left side of the wall at Elbow Lake on Saturday, we saw some climbers cleaning routes, so we decided to back down and let them clean due to boulders and debris crashing down beside us. Looked like a lot of rope climbing and wall hugging, so a great deal of thanks goes to these guys who I imagine did a great job at making the climbs there safer. So, retreating down to the boulder feild for some rock jock grabs and pulls, we molested the boulders for the day, and all was well until one bit back. Crimping an overhang on one that had a couple sharp spires underneath it, I fell and landed on my feet...Except the saw tooth blade edge of this dagger of a rock below it caught my left leg and ate enough skin to seperate enough skin to warrant a reaction of 'oh shit, I gotta go to the hospital'...which is the first time I have ever said that in my life. I did not know what the hell happen to my leg...I have never looked at an open gash in my skin where I thought I could see all the way to the bone... Luckily it was just all layers of flesh. Rushing from the boulders to the hospital was rather slow, go figure...A train in Deroche was crossing, so we grabbed the camera and started taking pics of this gouge in my leg... Oh well, goes to show Bouldering deserves respect just as much as sport, trad, and alpine. Anyways, 28 stiches, and a 10 rolls of gauze later, I was back sunday night in the gym, upperbody for the next 10 days untill the stiches come out!

i meant to include this pic...

can you guess where this is? Also just curious to see if you may have the same pic...being a local and all...

they must be a little further back on the peak...i think, not much though

Actually I would love to find some oldtimer gear and take photos like that...some of the old clothes and ropes, boots...etc. are amazing, everytime I go into an antique shop I look for old ice axes,and stuff like that. What I was actually comparing was just the rock in the background to see any geological change...etc. I had a bunch more that I was comparing with some old photos...In only some 80-85 years, some rock has really changed in some pics.

Just looking through an old BC Heritage magazine and found some pics of the first Slesse ascent...thought this comparison is kinda cool, so I printed it off and put it in my photo album...thought others may find this kinda neat.

I guess now the RCMP will turn over the grenade to the Canadian Armed Forces...Finally, we have a grenade now!

pic during the slog on the slope leading to the gap on the ridge

25 minutes from car to Lake. We were carrying a whack of gear for the climb, so it was more like 40 minutes. From the Lake to the Gap (Top of ridge where the Gargoyles are), takes around 2-3 hours (Winter)...We were battling knee deep snow and a talus slope that kept eating us up to the waist cause of snow cover. We had shoes, but ditched them at the bottom before the steep slope up to the spires....That was a mistake...Luckily an avalanche had previously come down and provided a nice hard crusty surface which we followed up- I know, not the best but, we did a test and all was good, plus we were beeping, and we were not too exposed for extended periods of time. We reached the faces, and the faces take around an hour each, depending on route finding, number in party...etc. I would love to do this in summer, probably take an hour from lake to reach the top of ridge in between gargoyles. They are fun climbs with nice holds. Little minature sub-alpine climbs that are great day long objectives!

Climb: Lindeman Gargoyles-Middle Gap Date of Climb: 1/25/2004 Trip Report: Ascended from Lindeman Lake up from the talus slope into the chiminey between the two most prominent 'Gargoyles' which are in between Flora and Lindeman lake... reached the top of the gap and now we are wondering if these things have ever been climbed before or what? We dont even know if they have official names, because they are always just referred to as 'The Gargoyles' from picnicers walking to Lindeman Lake, or hikers on their way to Greendrop lake...So if anyone knows, pleas let me know, they were really fun climbs, nice clean, solid blocky holds...Except for the iced up chimney gap leading to the centre peak of the Gargoyles. Gear Notes: Used: 50m 8mm, belay on way down from iced up chimney, two ice tools, small rack of cams, nuts, and two screws. Approach Notes: Snow/Talus Slopes: From Lindeman lake Trail

ya I just cleaned out the rope...Why you ask? Well I am sending that pic to his family to let them know that Richard only free solos ice...!! Then when I saved it, it saved over the original file, so it is a ropeless climb for good now...atleast in the picture!

Looking at the pic I took of Hanging Lake in Chilliwack during last summer, I see that there may be some interesting lines...However, getting there in Summer was grueling enough, let alone giving it a try in winter...any takers????

After learning that Lillooet hosts a number of ice climbs with fellow climbers, we drove for a few hours Saturday night and met with the BC/Washington ice climbing community in the basement of the Legion. While myself and rich discussed how this whole event and people are very much like the caving community and annual BCSF meeting (except without the political/conservative/commercial agendas, we smiled and sat back as our adrenaline pumped taking in all the info and climbing pics presented with Dons slide show. Very savage like, we raced to Lyle's maps', slammed 10 bucks in his face and now we had maps pinpointing the locations of surrounding ice climbs! This was too good, its so easy I thought, not like caving in which this would end the authors life if something like this would go on. Sunday was now looking like a good day, so we returned to the 4pines early because we just wanted daylight to rise so we could climb, we thought about just going that night with our headlamps, but we were tired of climbing in the dark-caving tends to do that to you- So anxiously we sharpened tools, organinzed gear so all we would have to do is roll over, stand up and we would be in the truck heading for Marble Canyon. Unfortunatley getting a good nights sleep was out of the question-let alone sleeping at all. The room beside us was hosting an after hour Darts championship party (I guess), and they had all their underwear hanging from the plants outside our room, so we had to listen to a running commentary all night on whos undies were freezing...etc. They tried to get ours, but I told them that Ice climbers tend not to wear underwear to help keep light and manuverable. They thought this was an open invitation to actually investigate, however we raced into the room, bypassed them like slippery pillars seeking salvation and grabbed the axes incase they proceeded in after us. Anyways, waking up with axes in hand, we got to marble canyon and stood in line. I guess this is what its all about... But it was fun watching other people, it is not very often we see others on climbs, usually we have hiked for 12 hours, crossed glaciated ridges, stumbled down down talus rock-mixed-snow-slides, and then after a 4 hour bivouac, grabbed our tools on our 85lbs packs and climbed a 1000f chimney that maybe has 65 feet of ice...Not complaining, I do love this, but it was nice for once to pull up, say hi to people, grab the rope, grab the tools, and just climb, climb, climb...Anyways, I think we did the Dihedral, moving off the the far left to make things interesting. Overall, we had fun, good ice, good people!

Lillooet?