Bogen

My tale is similar to Bug's, except I think I was a little younger when I started hunting. At 13 or 14, I was moving up along a slough late in the evening, while my dad pushed down a cut-line from the other side. Exactly where I expected a deer to come out, I saw movement, something coming out of the brush with the hesitant pause-step-pause of a deer coming into a clearing. Fully in my sights, it looked so much like a deer I was ready to shoot, however, I wasn't completely sure. With the deer's fore quarters fully in my sights, at about 150 yards, I said in a loud voice, "Hey there!" The head came up alright, and it was my neighbor. Worst thing was, he was wearing a reddish orange jacket certified by fish and game, but it looked perfectly tan in the dusky light. You can call me a dumbass kid if you like, but I have much better than average vision, grew up with a trap line, and had killed 3 deer alone in years previous to that fall. I do not tell this tale to beg leniency for this kid now, in fact quite the opposite. That trigger should not get pulled until you are 100% sure. The kid should do time, hopefully a lot of it.

I can't believe Americans know this...

ya, thanks. How am I gonna sleep now...

I led sport the first time I climbed outside. 10a. Then again, I had been clambering up everything I could all my life, and have a strong mechanical aptitude, so incorporating a rope and hardware came naturally. Advice? Other than "know thyself"... Go lead an easy sport route. Today. Clip from a comfortable position. Not as soon as you can reach the bolt. Most bolts are (should be, hehe) placed with this in mind. Double check everything you do religiously, not just because you may screw up, but also to keep you focused on the task at hand. Now go!

Well, doesn't sound like you are really up to the point of having to make the hard decisions yet. New parents are always idealistic like this, and they always grow out of it. Many, in fact most, things you can reason with your child about, and let them figure out for themselves the consequences of mistakes or transgression. You will, or should, carefully pick a few nono's that are strictly conditioned into their behavior, by you. For example, children have a very poor sense of empathy. Sibling rivalry can spring up regardless of your best intentions. The first time you see your 2 year old try to brain your new infant with a Tonka truck, I strongly recommend a firm, decisive approach to conditioning that behavior out of your child.

No, I usually have a couple sets of nuts, and use them frequently. Just have never found I spot where I needed a big, passive unit for that I couldn't move a ways up or down and find a placement for something smaller or more reliable. Though, I am moving to Calgary soon... Anyone think I might find more use for it in the rockies?

Having not found a use for this stuff excepting the odd piece once or twice in the last couple decades, I am going to throw it out, I think. Is there any reason I shouldn't? Like maybe keep it for the odd really wide crack that catches my eye, or give it to boy scouts or whatever? It seems obsolete and useless to me...

A cheap, reasonable solution would be http://http:/www.mammutusa.com/dyn_prodlist.php?k=88541 The Phoenix looks like great value, I have the genesis and like them. The big problem with using a twin line singly is not the fall it will hold (within reason...), but rather its very low resistance to abrasion and rockfall. The big problem with using any thicker ropes in a "twin" configuration is rope drag/ rope management, maybe a slightly greater safety concern than abrasion really. I often only take a short, static 6mm when scrambling with kids or inexperienced friends. Nothing you would actually climb with, but a light, serviceable option to occasionally rope a nervous partner up. Its all a continuum from there, IMO, and subject to your own assessment of the days requirements.

Grats on your first big route!!! I have been to yak 3 times, and been chased off 3 times. The first time, (you were 2, Marc!) with only a blurry photocopied sheet from god knows where, we arrived at the base of the pillar and thought the off-width was the way to go. Since we had no gear that could protect in that big crack, and it seemed easy, we solo'd to the top of the pillar. Looking at it years later, I still can't believe we did that! We were gearing up on lunch ledge under perfect blue skies when a black cloud peaked its head into the valley down the west. When the valley was half full of clouds, we started down, and by the bottom of the pillar, we couldn't see where we had just been. There was a party about 4-5 pitches above us on Yak Crack, completely socked in, poor guys. The next time I went, years later, we got there late on a Saturday and were turned off by the crowds on Yak Crack, so decided for a try at Reality Check. We took a brief, humbling stab at the crux slab pitch and went home. The next year, I went back to Reality Check, determined to do it, and fell just about the whole length of the crux pitch. I got a little excited at the end of it (keep your cool at all times, sigh) and lunged for the dish under the bolt that effectively ends the crux. It was full of gravel and off I went on a 50-60 foot slab fall. I ended up head down about 6 feet straight to the right of my partner, blood running up my forehead... (I was OK, just scraped up) There was a sling hanging right beside the dish that I could have gone for instead, but I didn't want to "cheat," lol. I'll go back someday I suppose...

We are also working a fiendish new WMD, and as soon as Dru finishes his latest batch of chili, we are sending him down. mwahahah

you'll want to eviscerate the bunny shortly...

game! 6,400,000 = myhiscore

maybe he is using the new purell anti-bacterial chalk. Then again, maybe you should have called him on it. Nothing like a little public embarrassment to bring someone into line.

I don't think being pregnant automatically makes a woman a good decision maker. In my experience, it is often the opposite However, I don't think this is the case in this instance. Maintaining an active lifestyle, and raising a child in that environment as a matter of principle earns my full endorsment. Go Aimee!

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The grand wall looms above exasperator, giving this illusion. It is really quite steep. Here is a pic of stemalot about 2 pitches above Kevbone's pic.

He was "bungee jumping" with a climbing rope setup. He had done this many times, and in fact was renown for his experience with complex dynamic anchors for construction and recreational purposes. However, on the occasion of his death, he went to do one last jump at the end of the day, and didn't set the anchor lines properly. Without going into details of the complex anchor, sling slid along rope, crossed over where it was supposed to simply link with a carabiner, and the anchor broke when loaded.

I dunno, this recent tirade on meat shows a low level of education coupled to a serious insecurity complex. Not sure I'd be accepting bizarre, unsupported political statements from someone like that on faith alone.

Was the fall of the Soviet Union peaceful?

Wrong. It is only by virtue of violent conflict that you are able to enjoy the bizarre privelege of a peaceful existance in a non-violent setting. Sometimes things are sad, even barbaric, and necessary at the same time.

So, we are gonna need to add an RPG to the rack. Not sure how I feel about this escalation...

Ya, I'm at 5-6 a day now, too. Sucks, but on the other hand I am starting to feel that I could climb seriously again! Now the painful journey of getting into shape again...

I drove past it a week ago, it looked great. Anyway, there is a ton of routes with similar length, grade, quality, exposure and view, that are seldom climbed (read "no line-ups") in the vicinity. Just go, man!

dammit

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