ilookeddown

I climbed it yesterday. As mentioned the first couple of pitches are wet with seeping water and quite slick but everything else was dry. The road is now closed at the middle fork so it adds about a mile to the approach.

I am going on a road trip for about a month starting the end of next week. My plan is to climb, Mt. bike, and surf. This trip will roughly take me from the Seattle area through Smith, Mt Shasta, Lake Tahoe, Yosemite, Bishop, JT, and then head over to San Diego and up the cost. If anyone has any suggestions of other climbing areas to visit, classic mt. bike trails or a break that shouldn’t be missed please let me know. I only plan to be in one spot a day or two at the most but I am flexible. I am basically going with no plan and no partner. I hope to pick up a little of both along the way. I will have my Vanagon so I can camp comfortably just about anywhere. Thanks in advance of any and all suggestions. Dave

I have an Omega Pacific 50cm 3rd tool you could buy for $65 or lend you if you don't trash it too much. Pick it in perfect shape but the hammer has pounded a few pitons. Let me know.

Some photos from the climb. Nice climbing with you DN. Let's get out again.

Metolius cams #5,6,7,8 in near new condition. No wear other that some scuffs. Would like to sell as a set. $30 each. Garmont Epic GTX boots in very good shape. Size 11.5. Minimal wear on the sole. $100.00. PM me if interested.

Agreed.

There is potential for rope damage if a second falls after cleaning the first draw while moving left. The second would pendulum and depending on how much rope was out, would be hanging in free air. (There would have to be a lot of rope out or the second was traversing too low) If this were to happen, the second would either have to jug the rope or be lowered the ground by the leader and have to re-climb the first pitch. The rope damage would occur on the lip of the ledge during the fall. I don’t know what could be done other the changing the route. I guess just don’t fall or keep the second very tight for the first 10 or 15 feet of the pitch. If you have any suggestions on a way to make it safer post them and it might be looked into by the person who put it the route up.

There is not much on the east side of the lake you can drive to and camp at w/o a fee. North of road side rock is your best bet. I think it is only like $12. Camp sites are on the lake, and have facilities and fire pits.

I am looking for advice for climbing shoes. After recovering from surgery on both my shoulders I am finally back to cracking into the 11’s again and hoping to climb harder. I am currently climbing in Mythos but feel like I need a bit more. I also have a pair of Testarossas I had before my surgeries but now they just kill my feet. I guess I am interested in something in-between these shoes. I know there are many variables depending on the type of climbing so please give me your recommendations on the best shoe for face climbing and best for cracks. I feel like I could wear my Mythos all day so I plan just use those as my all day multi-pitch shoe. Thanks

PM on the rope and skins.

Friday: Took Doug and me as long to rappel Prime Rib as it did to climb. Wind and a rope drag seemed to be the theme but it was fun, especially the last few pitches. Thanks to Doug for being a great partner and stringing those two lower pitches into one. Saturday: Frozen and windy conditions on the way up Kangaroo then variable conditions down Willow Creek. Hardest part was either hitching a ride back to the car or the two trees I hit. Sunday: Outstanding conditions near Rainy Pass. We went up near Frisco and had a great ski down, then headed up and over a ridge to the north and down to Ann Lake. Fun skiing but should have used sunscreen. I am sure Feck and company will provide more commentary and pictures. Thanks to David Parker for arranging a great place for everyone to stay again this year!

If anyone is showing up on Friday around 11am and wants to climb Prime Rib send me a pm and we can meet up. I have never climbed it, but it looks fun. Dave

I plan to be there. It is always a fun time.

I love the belay one gets on the traverse. They can’t see you and that old pin is something I would rather not test. That pitch is a classic with the exposure IMO.

I think I read correctly what he was asking and since I have been up there a few times offered some additional advice based on my past experiences. If I would have told him that all he needed was ski crampons and it turned out to be bullet proof ice than that would be very bad advice. I also offered an alternative ski descent that the original poster may not have been aware of. Answer: Because you have to.

I consider skiing the SW chutes on the decent. It is especially rewarding in comparison. BTW if your fitness is good, camp at the car and do it in a day and save carrying all that weight. As for crampons, that all depends on the weather/snow conditions. I would throw a light weight pair of aluminum ones in the pack to be safe and I always carry my ski crampons. They hardly add any weight.

I may have used what was left of your ski track the next day on our way to Kaleetan. Thanks for putting it in up to col. We left the car at about noon and the storm rolled in just as we made the summit. The snow was quite variable and like you said good up high but terrible down low. It will be an interesting week to see how things settle out with this storm.

We were at little si today and it was dry. Well at least until it started to rain. This time of year I would wait 24 hours for it to dry out. Like Rad siad the east facing does dry out fastest if you do not mind the wind.

They were bad as a teenager standing in a lift line for an hour. Now if I want fresh tracks I just work for them.

Like JayB, I grew up skiing at Crystal. I haven’t been back too much since the late 80’s because I am cheap and I tour most of the time unless I am skiing with my son. If you take into account inflation; a lift ticket at Crystal is not going to cost you too much more now than one did in the mid ’80’s. There were also much longer lift lines, no high-speed lift until ’88, and less accessible terrain. Skiing is an expensive sport. It always has been at least as long as I have been doing it. On a positive note for the bank account, next week all Summit at Snoqualmie pass card holders can ski at Crystal for $10 March 15th-21st.

IMO the only resort worth spend that type of money on is the one where you know where to find that secret stash. Every ski area has them even Hayak. Otherwise you are just funneled down with everyone else. What makes a great day is knowing or knowing someone who can chose the best terrain and fall line that most people don’t know about. Crystal is big enough and has enough terrain to make it worth the cost of a lift ticket. I have even had days at Alpental where I would have paid $100. But, if all you want to do is ride groomers all day, go the summit west and save your cash.

There is still a lift shack 1/2 way up to Bullion Basin they put in. I always wondered if there was ever a lift there when I saw it.

Trip: Mt. Roosevelt - Date: 2/16/2010 Trip Report: Monika and I skied an excellent line down the NW side of Mount Roosevelt. When we left the upper lot at Alpental under fog and snow hopping things would improve. We made our way up to the Chair Peak notch. Monika climbing up to the notch From there we skied down to Snow Lake. Snow was good but visibility was terrible at the top but improved lower down Monika skiing down to Snow Lake Monika skiing Once at the lake we headed up to the north summit of Roosevelt. The skinning was easy but by this time the snow was getting heavy and it was raining a little. From the summit we headed down to the entrance. Monika taking a break. Me trying to look down in the fog to see if it goes through The line starts out as a couloir then opens up into a beautiful bowl. Snow conditions were still a little heavy but we managed to do OK with it. I would love to go back on a nice powder day. Me ½ way down skiing the glop Looking back up from near the bottom From the bottom of the line we skied NE toward Wildcat Lake then wrapped around and headed SW up to a ridgeline above Snow Lake. We skied down to the lake, and headed across to the Snow Lake Divide. From there we skied down to source lake then back to Alpental. Monika crossing the lake Overall the route is very fun with good terrain. Conditions on this day were less than ideal. On a sunny powder day it would not disappoint. We did manage to release some small slab layers most of the day but they did not run very far. Total elevation is about 5,800 ft and the distance is just over 9 ½ miles. Gear Notes: Touring Stuff

Must have been an 8.1 because it was way too heavy to be a 1.8

Trip: Rampart Ridge - Main Summit to Gold Creek Date: 2/9/2010 Trip Report: Today I skied a line off the main summit of Rampart Ridge. I started out at the Gold Creek just after 9am under blue skies. I trudged up the heavily used road under icy conditions. I took an old logging road after about a ½ mile that took me up to about 3k ft I left the road and toured up to the south shoulder of Rampart ridge to about 5360 ft. Snow conditions improved above 4k. I took the skins off and traversed north beneath cliffs and then skied down to Laura Lake at 4400 Ft. Lake Laura with traverse and slope above I strapped the ski to my pack and climbed up a drainage to Lake Lillian. I crossed the lake and the toured up to a col above the lake at 5370 ft Col above Lake Lillian Looking down from col to the south Tree at col From the col I had a short but beautiful ski down a north facing slope to a small pond. Tracks down from col From here I put the skins back on and headed for the summit of Rampart Ridge at 5810 ft. Slope I skied and the summit of Rampart in the distance on my way up. South summit of Rampart with some great looking mellow lines lines. The ski from the summit was interesting. The snow was a bit sun affected. It was 1:15 at this point. After skiing a nice open slope I then made my way down around a few cliff bands and found myself on a shelf above some what seemed like large cliffs. I tried to traverse skiers left to a line I saw on my way up that I knew went through but it was a dead end and still too high to get to it. I usually don’t ski a line like this blind. The dead end. I found a suitable sapling and rappelled down to safer ground. Rapelling down Pulling the rope The line I took. Red is the ski, yellow is the rappel and green is the way I should have gone. The main summit is not in view. It is behind the large rock face. From here I had a great ski down to Gold Lake. Looking back from Gold Lake. From the lake the skiing started to suck. In a normal year and with good snow this would be a very enjoyable line but on this day it was a nasty, cliff riddled gully covered in avalanche debris for 1800ft. Toward the bottom I had had enough and decided the steep icy treed area would be more enjoyable. After getting spanked I opted for the brush covered sun crust slopes. By the time I mastered the sideslip things turned to breakable slush. Finally I hit the Gold Creek Trail and skated the mile back to my car where a ticket was waiting for me for not displaying the Sno Park Pass that was in my glove box. Nasty Gully Fun Brush The tour was about 4400ft in elevation with just over 7 miles traveled. Approximate Route Gear Notes: Touring Gear Harness, 1.8mm 60m 1/2 rope Ski and boot crampons not used