letsroll

Sorry have been away from the computer. I went up on 3/11 and the trip was amazing. I did the went up the wrong couloir and did Ried Glacier till the 50 degree bulge and at the point I chickened out and down climbed to a ridge overlooking Leuthold. Was not too sure about the bulge and if I fell....I didn't want to be one of those guys. Anyway when I was checking out Leuthold saw some of my friends heading up leuthold and I joined them till the summit. The climb is really easy, as it was said before just a long hogs back. Much easier than I anticipated. The summit ridge on the other hand is a little scary and I would not want to do that in a white out. The day was perfect, cold at night for good and hard snow and then warmed up durring the day for good boarding on the southside back to timberline. The only thing was the ice fall through out the day, lots of it and some pieces were rather large. Take a helmet and have fun. I am going to go back this weekend with a second tool for the Reid Headwall and attempt to finish it with just my ice axe but feel safer with access to a second. I chickened out and looking forward to redeeming myself.

They are a good start but to read one alone is just a mistake. I look at intellicast, NWS, then take the middle ground.

After reading through the comments it seems to be very important as to what I will be using them for. Water ice, alpine, and so on. I have not tried WI climbing yet, but I am very interested in it and will be trying it next year. Right now I am looking for tools for alpine use on routes greater than 50 degree. If I could save money and do a little research ahead of time and get tools that would work well in both situations I would go that route.

Your mazama comment is so true and so funny. I have to laugh because last summer I was one of those mazamas. Old shoot or west crater rim might be the choice route for decent.

I am looking into purchasing tools. Not sure what to get, size, shape, brand. I have been looking at the Stanly Alpine Manta tool, titanium nice . The cost seems to be better than others as well. manta ice tool What shape do peole use, straight, clearence shaft or the s curve? Has anybody used the Manta tool, and what was your experience. Should I try and rent first to see what I like? thanks

My plan was to climb Leuthold and board the south side route off the summit. Shooting the pearly gates looks like too much fun . I guess I will have to keep my options open for boarding the Couloir if conditions are good and time permits.

Looking for beta on Leuthold. I have a copy of Oregon High and that is my main source of info right now. Does anybody have more info or with that route description be good enough. I was going to solo that route this thurs, avi conditions seem to be best on that day along with weather. I am only going to use an ice axe, will that be enough? Thanks

I know it is early but the sun has inspired me to look way ahead. Any way. Has anybody done this trip and could recomend some web sights for route info, or detail thier trip. What time of year is best? I was thinking about early June. What kind of pro should I bring, pickets, light rack, screws?

where are they selling the Silvretta Pure. I can't seem to find them.

Thanks for all the ideas. I am going to look into custome foot beds and try smaller socks. The asprin sounds good but how would it affect altitude on the body? Hydration, well I know I can do better in that area. I also found another idea while reading Adventure Mag. Murry Hamlet former director of the U.S. Army's Cold Injury Research Program "Try soaking your toes in ice water every day for a month like many fish filleters do with thier hands. With practice, the blood vessels in your feet will learn to dilate instead of contract when toughed by frigid air."

La Sportiva nepal extreme's

I have Cassin C12. I could not get that strap tight enough to cut off circulation, I am always pulling on the strap to tighten them so I don't trip.

I have the nepal extreme's and my feet only get cold when I put on my crampons. I have switched to a thicker sock, but that does not seem to help. I seem to be fine in every other situation. My thought is that the cold is transmited through the sole so I was considering putting a foam pad between my boot and my crampon, an idea I got from overboots. Will this work? What kind of foam should I try? Has anybody done any thing simular?