mattyg

So what happened NOLSe? Are you hearing impaired? Did you heal thyself? The masses demand an update.

Any pics?

Hmm, yeah - I've had this fuel 4 Eva. I'll get some new stuff before heading out next. Thanks for the tip.

Supergreg! . . . Numbah One!

I think we passed you guys on the way down the trail Sunday. You probably passed quite a few wet people descending that day. It was pretty nasty up there.

I've never run anything through it other than white gas. I cleaned it out in a big way today so we'll see what happens. It seems to be well built and constructed - I'll give it a second chance.

I've had this stove for over a year and I wonder if it's a lemon. Took it up to Baker this weekend and it was being really persnickety. Took forever to get warmed up to full operating temp and then when it did I'd place a pot on it and it would go out. This has happened several times. I really haven't used it that much and I'm wondering if it is just a quirk of the model or if I have a bad one. I know everyone always talks about using them in AK so they must be pretty good. I can't say I've been very impressed. May be it just needs to be cleaned. Dunno - thoughts. I could just take it back to the Evil Empire and forget about it. What's the hot stove these days?

You gonna share those pretty photos?

Any beta on getting into Ingalls Lake? I got lost a few years back on some road back there. Dunno why. We ended up watching World Cup soccer and drinking beer at some roadside bar which was probably almost as fun.

Presumably the South Ridge route goes something like this. . ? (see attachment, I can't seem to get my village photo account to work)

slothrop, is that last pic take ON the south ridge? What's seen in background there?

I'm headed up there on Sunday for the South Ridge route. If it's wet, it'll still be a nice hike.

It was a good time. Nice to hear his insights into the high profile rescues he's been a part of. I took my dad, who is climbing the Emmons/Winthrop route with me in July. The show made him a little nervous because of all the talk of tragedies and rescue. But Gator did say that the E/W route is his favorite so that made him feel better. I managed to get two refills at the keg so that made me feel better.

Anybody been up in that area recently? How's the road & snow conditions look?

So who went up there this weekend? I'm heading up Coleman/Deming this coming weekend. Wondering what the road looks like as well as the snowpack. Words of wisdom anyone?

Any pics?

pics please

Where is that?

What's it weigh in at? And why are you selling it?

Climb: Mt. Adams-Mazama Glacier Date of Climb: 7/17/2004 Trip Report: After searching this site for beta on permits and whatnot for the Mazama Glacier route I called the Mt. Adams Ranger District, Trout Lake Ranger Station (509) 395-3400 for the update. Ranger Tom told me that a Cascade Volcano Pass is not required for climbs originating inside the Yakima Indian Nation. Armed with that knowledge and willing to pay any fees imposed at the trailhead my partner Trevor and I made the long drive in to Bird Creek Meadows trailhead on Friday night. Five and a half hours after leaving Seattle we arrived at the TH and slept in the back of the car. Awaking to the buzz of mosquitoes (repellant recommended for the TH but not really needed after you set off) we packed up and sped up the trail, stopping to take in the view from Hellroaring overlook. Cloud cover was just enough to keep us from frying. After clambering up over a talused ridgeline we dipped down into the basin and onto the talus fields that lead up to the edge of the glaciers. At this point the regular trail peters out but the route is pretty well marked via well placed cairns and orange blazes on rocks. Meandering through intermittent snow fields we reached Sunrise Camp at about noon. There are 6 or 7 well fortified tent braces there with enough flat area for many more. Running water is available via glacial melt at Sunrise and we took full advantage of that. There is a great view of the route up the Mazama glacier from camp; you can see all the way to the false summit. Noting that there are a few cracks opening up on the lower Mazama, I mentally went over the route in my head. We spent most of Saturday hydrating and meeting our caloric intake needs. Got up around 2am on Sunday morning, rigged up and set out under a completely clear sky. It was fairly warm out and the snow was perfectly set for the long haul. We opted to not use our crampons and got away with this for quite some time. As it started to get light we found ourselves pretty high on the Mazama without even seeing a crevasse (we'd passed them all early on when it was still dark). Several light rainsqualls passed by (yes, it was pretty warm) as we made our way onto the upper Mazama. Right near the top of the glacier we encountered some ice underneath the snow that caught me a little off guard. I slipped and lost my footing, went sliding down the slope for a ways before I was able to self arrest. I guess that's why we carry all these spiky bits. Trevor braced for impact but I was able to stop myself just before the rope came snug (whew!). After some serious self-flagellation we put on our crampons on and continued up. After cresting over the top of the Mazama just beneath the false summit the route joins the South Spur route at about 11,200. It's almost comical how many people and !dogs! were coming up from this direction. We joined the throng and put our heads down for the last push. Fairly windy on top but relatively warm as we took the requisite pictures and chatted with our co-summiters. The slog back down was uneventful and again, the snow conditions were perfect. Awesome butt glissading near the top saw us back to the false summit. We saw evidence of rockfall on the lower slopes of the Mazama but didn't hear or witness any actually fall. It would be easy to keep out of the way of any errant rock. Many foot glissades and we made it back to the tent with bowls of ramen for sustenance. I would definitely recommend this climb as an easy walk-up route on Adams. It is not crowded and very straightforward. Sorry no pics yet - I'm still stuck in the film age. Matt. Gear Notes: Standard glacier travel rig Approach Notes: Road is free and clear to Bird Head Meadows TH. Trail to Sunrise Camp is well marked.

I'm emailing the park service as well, but just thought I'd put this out there and see if anyone else has had this experience. I got a permit for Camp Muir through the reservation process quite a long time ago. In the new process you have to have everybody's name and climbing pass# on the form you submit. Plans change, as they always do, and aside from me and one other person I think everyone else that's climbing will be different people than who are listed on the permit. I assume that it's easy to swap out names. Is this the case? Also, what time does the ranger station open at Paradise?

Are there any water sources (other than snow) at or near Sunrise Camp?

How'd it go? I'll probably be heading there this weekend.

Any pics?

9. Suncreen in your eye doesn't help you climb better 10. The last hour of sunlight only lasts thirty minutes