fear

Hang in there guys...... We're supposed to be on the same route next Sunday. Anybody have the local emergency phone # to call should something like that happen? -Fear

I was there a few years ago... Go as EARLY in June as possible. I'd go in May if I did it again. By the time I got there it was just endless loose shitty scree and volcanic dust. Descend the route. Much safer if you're solo. Keep in mind there are crevasses up top. None on the cleaver though. -Fear

Rainier's got to be the cheapest real mountain in the US to climb. You can't beat the access either. Hell, I come all the way from CT and it's still a bargain. I'm seconding the fat and lazy theory.... -Fear

The Green (thick) superfeet simply rock.... and they add a wee bit of insulation. -Fear

I'm planning a 5/23 climb of LR. I called the Wilkeson(sp?) ranger station today and the recording said the Ipsut road is open. Several comments elsewhere on the Internet also add you will probably need a "high-clearance" vehicle. We're wondering the same thing about the descent. I guess if it's not too bad we could descend LR. We were planning on an Emmons descent but that's a LOOONNNNG way! -Fear

Partner just bailed on a planned Mt. Rainier / Liberty Ridge climb. Planned to go last week of May. Times are still flex. Figure 4-5 days tops. I'm looking for either another partner or joining another team. Potential partners MUST have: A sense of humor Solid multi-pitch lead climbing experience on ice. Ability to lead Grade 2+/3 ice and at least follow or TR a 3+/4 Glacier experience (complete crevasse rescue skills) Solid general mountaineering skills (whiteout navigation, self-arrest, winter camping) Experience on at least one technical multi-day climb over ~13,000 feet. Obviously previous experience on Rainier/high cascades is a big plus. I've got the Bibler eldo tent/stove/rope/rack(screws and pickets) You'll need your own tools, bag, glacier gear, etc. If you think you might be interested please e-mail me ASAP! I'm in Central Connecticut. Thanks rmb@angelfire.com

Damnit! The worst part of every climb I've done is finding partners that stick to the plan.... I'm posting this in the partners section too but: Partner just bailed on a planned Mt. Rainier / Liberty Ridge climb. Planned to go last week of May. Times are still flex. Figure 4-5 days tops. I'm looking for either another partner or joining another team. Potential partners MUST have: A sense of humor Solid multi-pitch lead climbing experience on ice. Ability to lead Grade 2+/3 ice and at least follow or TR a 3+/4 Glacier experience (complete crevasse rescue skills) Solid general mountaineering skills (whiteout navigation, self-arrest, winter camping) Experience on at least one technical multi-day climb over ~13,000 feet. Obviously previous experience on Rainier/high cascades is a big plus. I've got the Bibler eldo tent/stove/rope/rack(screws and pickets) You'll need your own tools, bag, glacier gear, etc. If you think you might be interested please e-mail me ASAP! I'm in Central Connecticut. Thanks -Fear rmb@angelfire.com

I'd certainly like to topout again at Columbia (4 for 4 baby) but only if the weather/time/health/etc is also in agreement. Cutting across the Winthrop sounds interesting and looks like it would save a lot of time, on paper anyway. I heard the upper Winthrop can be a nasty maze of slots though... With only one partner not dropping into a slot is priority #1 for me.... If the climbing and conditions are truly easy we might just descend LR too... Got my Superfly Ascent stove working great down to 5-10 degrees now! Planning for that forced 14k trench bivy already! -Fear

Not always: Holy Shiite. I remember that picture.... That's why I'm going in May. Nice work at 14k BTW..... How tall was that rotten looking thing? I figure with the rack we'll have we should be able to aid some easier stuff if need be.... Like a 10' overhanging slurpee.. I doubt I'd have the cajones at 14k with my sea-level brain to tackle anything bigger.... Is there anywhere on drive in from SEATAC that you can recommend I might be able to pick up some MSR or Primus isobutane cartridges? Like a climbing/outdoorsy store? Or anyplace I might be able to ship my own fuel ahead of time? I'd hate to have to go to REI in Seattle at the beginning of the trip and waste time there... I'm still ripping our gear down for weight. I'm debating an all GU menu...... Well.... it'll be 0 degrees in CT tonight. Time to go work modifying my SuperFly Ascent stove to work at these temps... If it's below 0 on LR in May, we'll just go home. -Fear

Downclimbing of course depends on what we'd be downclimbing. In late May how much hard water ice and what honest WI difficulty do you think we'd encounter? Downclimbing hard styrofoam with the very occasional 50-70 degree bulge is one thing, frontpointing back down 3000' of bulletproof alpine black sh!t with packs is another. Of course any of that beats a fresh 2' dump of powder on a 40-50 degree slope..... Avy beacons and probes? Looks to me like if you get caught up in a slide off that thing a beacon won't matter.... Thanks again..... -Fear

Hey there, Planning to climb LR on Rainier the last week in May with one other partner. Planned descent is the Emmons. Standard deal. Planning to travel as light as possible so I had a few trip/gear questions for those who have done the route. The earliest I've done Rainier has been July and a couple years in late August. I assume it's quite colder in May.... Always made do with a 20 degree bag. I'm planning on the same 20 degree synth bag for LR(we will hopefully be in a Bibler Eldo wearing all our clothes too). Good idea? What are the normal temps/weather in late May like at ~10,000 and at the summit? We're both pretty decent ice climbers and would be comfortable soloing most easy WI3's at sea level. Now with a 20-30# pack at 14k in 40 mph winds is of course a different story. From everything I've read it sounds pretty easy, technically anyway, in late May(but please correct me). So we were planning a super light rack. 1 ~70cm mtneering axe each(BD raven) + 1 short technical (CM quark) tool 4 screws total (two good BD steel and 2 cheap titanium) Couple 'o screamers 2 2' Yates pickets 1 shovel 1 60m 8.1 double rope(just the one strand) all the necessary crevasse/glacier stuff (i.e. pulleys, biners, prussiks, etc). Too much? Not enough? What approaches are usually open that time of year? Snowshoes needed? I hope not. This will be a new side of Rainier for me. Usually from the DC or success cleaver side I'd look that night for clear skies and no lentics over Adams/Helens/etc..... Any good weather indicators specific to LR at Thumb Rock before a summit bid? Cell phones work? Anyone have GPS coordinates handy for Lib Cap/summit/Camp Schurman for those fun filled summit whiteouts? I'm sure I could find my way down the DC if necessary but that would suck.... Thanks for any help! -Fear