John Frieh
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Posts posted by John Frieh
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2 cents: If you read TFTNA and are not sure what to do next you probably want a coach.
If you have some ideas on what to do next you can always schedule a phone consult with UA ($50/30 minutes) and get their feedback on what you're planning on doing next. $50 every few months is cheaper than $350/month assuming you are self coaching correctly
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David McHenry and his staff at Therapeutic Associates on Alberta and MLK is legit
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Great TR. How long did the approach take before you broke out of the brush? How was the road to where you parked?
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GPS struggled at times on the face but it give you a good general idea of the route.
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Trip: Mount Temple - Greenwood Jones
Trip Date: 08/03/2017
Details: Given the reputation and lore select Canadian Rockies north faces hold I've always wanted to climb one but never had the opportunity minus a failed attempt on GCC on Kitchner way back in the late fall of 2008. High my list was/is any route on Mount Temple but avy conditions in the winter and grizzly conditions in the summer/fall had prevented me from ever trying.
My understanding is most years the CAN parks require (communists
) a minimum party size of 4 for anyone entering the area below the north face or risk BIG fines (and possibly a grizzly encounter ). As finding another team of 2 keen on an alpine start that was also willing to climb a different route was pretty much impossible I never have had a chance to try.
However in August of 2017 I heard they made the party size a recommendation and not a requirement. Lucky for me Daniel Harro was also keen so we pointed it north. Based on dawn & sunrise times and our plan to filter water at the lake we settled on a 3:30 departure. We started the face slightly later than I had hoped and wandered around trying to make sense of the beta before settling into the route.
Everything you heard is true: choss to perfection and everything in between. Not the worst rock I have climbed but Oregon volcano climbers have a high threshold. Managed to climb it without placing pins but we definitely clipped a few along the way.
All in all an awesome route and deserving of the status. I definitely want to come back for Greenwood Locke (in colder temps) and the Cardiac Arete on the Grand Sentinel looks awesome.
We found this TR in conjunction the most useful for route finding but even then we scratched our heads more than once and I had to reverse/downclimb a few false starts. Pins can show the way as well as get you way off route
If you try to do it in a day (which I recommend as it makes the packs more manageable) you need to save as much daylight as possible for the descent; I would expect attempting to follow the cairns down in the dark even with a headlamp challenging at best especially if you go back to your car via Paradise Valley. A google search will turn up more than a few TRs that detail a night spent out high on the mountain.
Gear Notes:
Standard rack. Took pins but didnt use them. Crampon and mini ice axe.
Approach Notes:
Opted for the car to car option
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I clip them on my neutrinos. And they save ones face a little when someone forgets the sunscreen
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@JasonG the chockstone pic is the actual crux; ice or no ice. Looking at the guidebook and the few other pics I could find usually the ice forms a curtain over the chockstone which I could see making it a little easier...? Either way it was a fun day out for us
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@olyclimber Air France and Alaska Air love me but not for my climbing travel
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Thanks @JasonG I've got a Mt Temple Greenwood Jones TR and a Montana/Wyoming trip in the works.
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Trip: Strobach - Jatinga (FA)
Trip Date: 01/30/2018
Summary: First Ascent of Jatinga WI4 35m John Frieh and Joel Campeau January 30 2018Details: Joel and Jen did a recon trip the weekend prior and baited me with photos of what appeared to be unclimbed ice climbers right of "First on Right." Even better it looked extremely similar to the Hyalite classic "The Thrill is Gone."
Two days later Joel and I returned and made good time to the base drafting the trail he and Jen had punched in a few days prior. I saddled up and with a cool head and creative ice screw placements was able piece it together before finally getting good rock gear higher up. Finally "interesting" thin climbing (classic Strobach) guarded the top out. We rapped off a tree climbers right of the top out.
Joel followed and we then ran a lap on what apparently was the very first route ever climbed at Strobach "First on Right" which we both found to be very steep off the ground before easing higher up.
Joel and I did some recon hiking after that and found some other possabilities that Jen and he climbed the weekend after that. Hopefully they post a TR soon!
Shout and a BIG thanks to Alex Krawarik for always being willing and able to answer all my Strobach questions! You the man!
Gear Notes:
Rock gear + stubbies recommended (required?)
Approach Notes:
Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide
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Trip: Moose's Tooth - Shaken, Not Stirred
Trip Date: 04/15/2018
Summary: Ascent of Moose's Tooth to the summit via the route "Shaken, Not Stirred" 19 hours camp to camp with Doug Shepherd April 15th 2018.Details: Alaska. Finally. After multiple trips to Alaska every year since 2009 life priorities had forced me to take a "leave of absence" since my last trip in March of 2016. It was nice to finally return and with Doug Shepherd, someone who I've done numerous trips with including my very first trip to AK in 2009.
Various existing commitments limited us to a 3 day trip but weather and temps the week leading up suggested we would likely find something we could climb during the short window. I grabbed Doug at ANC early Saturday morning and we blasted for Talkeetna.
After the usual shenanigans (weight in, repack) Paul zipped us in. After looking at possible objectives on the flight in we settled on Shaken, Not Stirred on the Moose's Tooth. Though I had climbed the Moose's Tooth in 2010 it was via Ham and Eggs. I'd always wanted to climb Shaken but had never seen it in.
A SLC team was coming out at the same time we were getting dropped off and had attempted it the day prior. They had bailed at the crux due to lack of ice but after quickly looking at their pictures we thought we should at least give it a try as it appeared like it would go with some mixed climbing.
We departed camp later than normal on Sunday (~6 am) to allow temps to warm slightly; this allowed us to wear single boots. I took the first simul block to just below the narrows where Doug took over. Doug fired a few amazing pitches that took us to the crux which was ice free but Doug was able to safely protect and find a mixed way through the crux. Following the pitch I have to say it was a very impressive lead.
Some more climbing took us to the Englishman’s Col where we enjoyed an extended hydrate + coffee break before heading to the true summit. I will say the terrain between the Englishman’s Col and the true summit is a lot of up and down with at least two rappels and nearly constant crevasse and cornice danger. "Enjoy"
We tagged the summit sometime after sunset but before dark; Doug's first time and my second. We managed to start the rappels down Ham and Eggs before it got truly dark so at that point it was just hitting rap anchors and/or making naked threads as needed.
We arrived back at camp ~19 hours later and flew out the following day, Monday, before heading back to the lower 48. Good times.
Gear Notes:
partial set of nuts, single set 00-2 c3, double set 0.4 -> 4 ultralights, 10 laser speed light ice screws, 3 micro trax, single + tag line
Approach Notes:
Talkeetna Air Taxi is the best
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PORTLAND! Tonight, Wednesday, at 7 pm at Arcteryx on NW 23rd Radek will share photos from this trip and others. FREE BEER, Arcteryx prizes and international climbing radness. Hope to see you there!
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Just in time for the new guidebook
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Well I'm going early April... Like April 1... Suggestions for ideal temp rating John?
what sort of night time temps have you seen there?
I usually take a 0 for basecamp. The -20 is probably the safe bet unless you can borrow a 0 from someone.
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20 will work unless you go in early April... Early and late April are often very different.
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So so rad! Loved it.
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Yes they have. Brunckhorst guide book
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+1 for Royal 7. Great spot
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Trip: Wyoming - Leaning Tree
Date: 1/9/2016
Trip Report:
I have to say this one lived up to the hype. Best WI3... ever? Quite possibly. So pleased I finally found some time and a partner to get this one done.
Many thanks to Joe Josephson for the beta and Aaron Mulkey for the personal guided tour.
Approach Notes:
Don't fall in the river
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Looks amazing up there! Hoping to get on some Canadian ice this winter myself. Could a Subaru Outback make the approaches?Unless driving conditions are ideal I wouldn't suggest it.
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Looks amazing up there! Hoping to get on some Canadian ice this winter myself. Could a Subaru Outback make the approaches?
Unless driving conditions are ideal I wouldn't suggest it.
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I might have something for you on SW Corbett. Let me check.
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Trip: Canadian Rockies - Ghost
Date: 1/3/2016
Trip Report:
First time in the ghost. AMAZING! Big thanks to Tim Banfield for the tour and place to stay in Calgary. World Class.
Climbed in the Valley of the Birds and Beowulf first day and Sorcerer on day 2.
All photos by Tim or Nate Goodwin
Daniel Harro on Yellow Bird
Beowulf
Truly one of the all time best
Gear Notes:
Standard kit
Approach Notes:
Stock Toyota Tundra no lift.
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Ill take them. PM sent
Daniel Harro
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