markd

amazing looking place to be. thanks for sharing.

one of favorite places to climb in oregon just happens to have this one.

the day pictured above moira and i also climbed the marsupial traverse and soloed koala rock. what a splendid day away from the crowds!

moira leading the best pitch on the route, imho.

if i remember correctly pirates doesn't really have all the bolts shown but it does have some and some pins. i also remember jim saying that it really hadn't been freed?

borderline is good rock climb.

are they all sold out locally now?

ho chi mihn.

wow, this is amazing. will someone please explain calmly to me why the two bolts were chopped on this 60ft route? i know other bolts have been placed at the drop zone as lead bolts by others. jim o showed ozone to kevbone and i a long time ago and told us to have at it, so we did. he was there for the whole thing and never had a problem with anything happening there. next comes the dropzone and kevin rauch, jon stewart and myself starting going there when there was maybe one total route, and NO interest from the elders what so ever. we ( jon, rauch and myself ) didn't want this new place over bolted at all and would consciously look to put up routes that utilized natural gear. this ethic stuck with us 'original' developers. 2 bolts in 60ft hardly is over bolted, so again my question is, why? lastly, jim o's most famous route at beacon has numerous pitches that many of us skip bolts on as they are clearly not needed. i assume beacon is 100% more trad than the drop zone and none of us have ever even CONSIDERED chopping them; again, we climb it and skip them almost every time. jim o, was my first ascent mentor and was there when i climbed my first FA at beacon and was cheering me on from the tracks. my second FA ever, also at beacon, he brought me to and told me this should be the next one and same for my third at beacon. my point is, jim has always been the man to me, a friend and also a mentor, so i'm slightly confused by this action. maybe we could all talk about this without the threatening tones i've been reading in both private emails and on here.

was a picture of cougar even posted? mine is not cougar. jlag, miss you bro! i'd love to be out climbing with you again.

when you channel your energy joseph, you are unstoppable. sometimes i think you just get a little to excited about some of the details. don't hear me wrong either, i'm not taking a shot at you. i appreciate what you have done and what you have tried to do; however, clearly everyone just doesn't seem to agree with you. now that i'm in new york indefinitely, i try to stay out of these arguments as i can't climb there now anyway, though my passion and zest for the place is not likely to die. i became a climber there and also climbed my first new route there which went on to define the climbing i would almost exclusively want to do.

haha nothing new here. i wish i could be as passionate about this as i used to but i feel like this is the same argument that we were fighting in 04, 05... nothing seems to ever change. the rock always closes and at best opens a little early. it's not that i don't appreciate the work that people do but nothing changes anyway. i should be in denver in the next month andrew so we'll have to meet up.

what about those pics?

here's some fa climbing porn of an area that is similar to beacon minus all the politicians:

same shit different day around the beacon front.

we started on andrew's route that has two bolts down low and starts under the big obvious roof. from here we climbed and scrambled a couple more pitches of 'adventure' climbing and root pulling to a flat grassy ledge. next pitch is a sweet short 5.9ish flake crack up to another ledge. from here it's probably 200' or so of unprotected slab to the trail. guy climbed almost a full pitch but could not find pro so he down-climbed back to belay ledge. we were scared and bailed. there were two fixed ropes part way up the cliff that had core shots on them so we took them down when we bailed.

the north side has been climbed on for many years. in 2001 guy pinjuv and i almost climbed a "new" line to the summit but were stopped about a pitch short. beautiful up there.

what a great multi-pitch route at smith with outstanding views and the best corner-crack pitch for the grade at smith, imho.

you would love it kevbone

ptrendler: two areas really but very close to each other. meadow camp and red boulder. love them both.

i would have to agree with you fgw. this zone holds some old-school routes as well as many of the new-wave multi-pitch adventure routes. many people don't climb these routes as they're not very smith-esque but it is a great loss to smith. this area used to be closed yearly for bird closures but then would reopen like the rest of the protected areas.

i'm glad i spent 5 years developing three, 4-6 pitch routes there.

did you guys free it?

rod, i would love to see a complete list of the routes you have put in this 'supplemnet'. can't be to hard as it's a simple copy and paste. my concern, as you know is misinformation put in this 'guide' of routes that you have never or will never get on. while i'm not saying this is fact, i'd love to hear the percentage of routes you've actually climbed compared to how many are in the guide. for instance: would you call something 'unknown' and then proceed to give it a rating and gear beta? are you exposing new routes without making any effort in contacting the fa party? some of my routes on the smith rock group, i've worked on for years and would not appreciate you haphazardly putting them in the guide without even contacting me; beyond that they are NOT ready for the general public. i've pm'ed you about this and called you and still do not know the answers. one more thing: if you're calling out tyler on what he has or hasn't done at smith then you are probably not the person that should be writing this 'guide'. mark