F.A. Sarah ******, 5.9+ R
Years and years ago I was projecting this little 5.9+ grade II climb up in Alaska. It looked easy for the taking but it turned out not so. I was thinking that it was going to be some little sport climb then I would move on to the next. Turns out this climb was not like the all the others, it ended up bieng a grade VI wall. It was defiantly a FA, because I had to clean it up a bit and there was a fair bit of loose stuff going on up high. When I first got on it, it had quite the boulder start; I couldn’t seem to get past that slab section. So I would go off to other climbs to free solo to burn off some steam and calm down. When I started working the problem harder it opened up and showed me some moves such as a slammer finger jam and even some good jugs up higher. Even messed around with a direct variation, but that didn’t go as planned.. And eventually after a fair bit of top roping I sent it. Since that day I have installed anchors up on it (nipple rings) have even tried to ad link-ups to it. I know there is a link up that will happen in time but just not now. Unfortunately the climb has gotten populated since I got that first ascent, even went clean for years but after years of being used, I would probably resort to aid for protection if I were you. Have fun on the climb, it is a wild ride. The wipers aren’t too bad either. Gear is a rack of nuts and big bros to 9 inches.