jpark42
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Posts posted by jpark42
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New lower price on the boots. Looking for $125
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Shuksans are sold
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Need to sell some of my old gear for the new gear I just bought. PM me if interested.Here's what I have:
2008 BD Kilowatts 175 w/ skins --- Been mounted once w/ a small core shot on near one edge. Asking: $200
2005 K2 Shuksans 168 w/ Naxo 2 bindings and skins---In good condition and haven't been used in 2yrs. Asking: $250
Nepal Top Extremes Size 45.5: I've had these for 6yrs and have taken really good care of them. Asking: $150
Here are the Kilowatts
Here are my boots
Here are the K2's:
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MUST FIND ICE TO CLIMB IN WA!!!
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bump
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Bummer...Joe was a super nice and will be missed.
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No problems...Anytime!
PS: If you hear anything about some one acquiring a couple of bd cams on Hyperspace let me know. Had to bail on the route in Aug/Sept and left cams to repel. Went back a couple of days later to finish and retrieve gear and it was gone.
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Returned
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Snowbash 2010 is in full effect!!!Come join Friends of the Northwest Avalanche for some drinking, dancing, and general tom foolery while helping support avalanche awareness and the Northwest Avalanche Center. Tickets are available at www.brownpapertickets.com or at the door. A pair of skis and tons of ski apparel and shwag will be raffled off. Questions? PM jpark42
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Looks sweet
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Most of the stuff at SR900 and at Exit 38 are pretty slabby with small vertical moves. If you are looking for overhanging, I'd check out the stuff Roj put up at Alpental.
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Cool... Keep me posted
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Describe the color and markings and it is yours
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http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/ice-climbing-tools
Sweet! Anyone tried them out? Reviews? Thoughts? I'm upgrading from Aztars this year. Do mostly Alpine Ice/Mountaineering, but also like to climb water ice in the winter. Thinking about either the new Quarks or Nomics.
I've gotten a chance to look at both of the new axes and they are really sweet. The new Nomics are basically the old ones with the ability to attach a hammer and a small spike on the end for balance. The new Quarks are by far some of the best tools I've seen in years. They weight less then the Aztar's and a little more then the Aztarex but now have a trigger finger grip with a choke. If you are doing mostly Alpine Ice/Mountaineering, I'd take a hard look at the Quarks due to their weight, size, shape but if you are looking for something that's going to do vertical ice and dry tooling like a champ, I'd stick with the nomic's
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The Hitchhiker, Kautz on Rainier, Hyperspace, The Grand Wall, three trips to Tieton, a three day trip to squamish, numerous day trips to Leavenworth/Exit 38/Index if that's what I get in a "crappy" summer I'll take it.
PS: Since when is there granite at Banks Lake?
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#3 sold
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The route is completely safe. It's a little over bolted if you ask me but if it's there you might as well use it.
We left our packs at the base of the climb so hiking down the blue lake trail head wasn't an option. I do agree that it's pretty amazing what people are willing to pick up off the side of the road these days. Next time I hitch hike, I'm going to experiment and see how far I can take it. Maybe poop my pants and see who is willing to pick me up.
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Trip: SEWS - Hitchhiker
Date: 8/24/2010
Trip Report:
A friend and I did Hitchhiker on Tues. It was awesome but unfortunely we both forgot digital camera's. Here is an awesome topo done by a buddy and the route play by play:
Pitch 1: A shallow finger crack in a corner (10+) brings you to a small overhang (9ish) and bolt anchors. Their are four bolts that you can use to protect the finger crack
Pitch 2: A fun pitch of 5.10 face climbing (three bolts) leads to a small over lap and easier climbing (5.8 fun) to a semi-hanging belay.
Pitch 3: Starts off hot and heavy with some 5.10 layback moves. The climbing gets easier as you go up. Remember to take a sharp right when you hit the piton.
Pitch 4: Fairly easy but hard to protect climbing leads right then left then right. Rope drag can be a bastard on this pitch so take care.
Pitch 5: A bolt protected 5.11a move right off the deck traverses right and then back left. Topo shows to belay at ledge with a tree and bolt but we linked these two pitches. This causes a little drag but no worse then the proceeding pitch. Go left of the bolted ledge/tree to awkward 5.10 climbing and a two bolt belay.
Pitch 6: The first of the money pitches. Bolt protected face climbing (5.10 fun) leads to a small finger crack. A couple of hard finger crack moves gains a groove and some funky groove moves, “yes I said it.” This is solid 11b but not to be missed climbing. Just remember when pulling into the groove from the finger crack to reach out right to a hidden jug crimp. Very key!!!! Route finishes on comfy ledge with bolts
Pitch 7: Start up and left on easy climbing (5.8) to three bolts on the face above. A couple of 10 face moves gains access to a 10+ corner and some thuggish lie backing moves. This ends at a bolt protected left trending finger crack. These moves are the high light of the route and ends by reach way back and grabbing a huge jug while letting your feet go fancy free. This goes at 11c and is not to be missed climbing. Finish up in shallow cracks to a comfy belay and bolted anchor.This pitch has a lot of drag. One way to fix this is by moving the belay past the 5.8 section to a tree right below the bolted face.
Pitch 8: Look around the corner to the right. See that bolt right in front of your face that’s the way so don’t miss it. Bolted face climbing leads to some lie back moves and 10a hand crack. This pitch finishes up on easy 5.7ow. Make sure to go right of the bolt on the arête and not kick down rocks on to your belayer.
Gear Notes:
Take doubles of .4 through #2. Take one #3 and #4. Small selection of small to mid-sized nuts. 60m rope. Drag is bad but negotionable. Bring double ropes to prevent drag.
Approach Notes:
We approached from the hairpin turn side. Though this approach quicker, about 30mins more then the Blue Lake approach. The descent is a bastard. If I did it again I'd approach from Blue and hike around. That makes the descent a lot easier.
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Add $5 for s/h. So no shipping isn't free.
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The 3.5 has been SOLD...The #3 is still for sale. 30 bucks and it is yours!!!
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I think that's an old picture and not current
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There are four dry tooling areas that I'm familiar with. There is one at Exit 38 near the trail, one off of 156 outside of Issaquah, a smaller crag with over hanging stuff at Alpental, and a small one near Mt. Baker. Help
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Heading up to WA Pass sat night and would like to find some one to do Hitchhiker with. PM if interested...
PS: Planning on climbing a little sport at Newhalem on Monday morning. We'll have to leave by 2ish cause I have to be back in Seattle by 5pm. These plans can change for the right partner.
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CYA and dry tool wall
in Ice Climbing Forum
Posted
Last time I checked you don't use ice screws while soloing.....