jpark42

I am heading down to Peru June 25th-July15th and I am looking for partners. I am looking to acclimatize for the first week on Pisco, Yanapacche, and Copia and after that take a look at the west face of Tocllaraja. Other then the first three my schedule is open and I am totally flexable for just about anything. I can lead moderate ice up 70-80 degree but I am more then comfortable following on harder stuff if need be.

Me and my partner did it on last Sat and the snow on the couloir is extremely deep and the ice was looking pretty thin on the first pitch and 3rd pitch of the runnels

I am not familiar with Jaberwocky Tower so I cannot say what the conditions look like. As for pictures, my partner took all the pics so I am waiting to hear back from him. As soon as I get the pictures I will go a head and post them.

Me and my partner did TC on Sat and the ice conditions were a little thin. That being said there is a ton of short ice climbs that are in around Colchuck, in fact thats what we were planning on doing if TC didn't work out. As for the snow conditions, I would avoid most the routes on the North face unless you want to slog your way up waste deep powder in the couloir. It was super deep in spots when we were up there but a lot of snow was been blown into the couloirs on the north face when we there.

I am heading to Peru June 25th-July15th and I am looking for partners. My hope is to acclimatize for about a week and then I want to do some bigger stuff. If you are interested shoot me an e-mail and we can talk

I might be interested I have April 24-26 off and I can probably get the 27th. Let me know if you guys are still looking for partners and we can talk about logistics

So it sounds like I am good to go as far as my Mammot Dynaame slings go but I might want to look into retiring my nylon runners and resling my cams. Thanks for feedback

None as far as I could tell.

PS: it is actually spelled Mowich and here is a cool picture from my trip.

That is true but considering that I every single one of my cams would have to be done, at $5 a pop, and all my nylon runners are the really exspensive Mammot Dynmma runners I want to get peoples opinion on whether or I need to replace them.

So my climbing gear was wet and left in a water tight bag for about three weeks, why this happened is a long story one I am not prepared to explain. Needless to say that my gear wasn't to happy when I finally took it out. When I took out the gear most of biners and cams had a white powdery substance on it, a type of rust I think. I think the metal gear will be ok with a little cleaning but I am curious if this substance will have any adverse effects on my slings and whether or not I should retire all my runners and buy new ones.

The middle section would be cool to ski but the upper section I think stays really icy all year because it is pretty step and doesn't see a whole lot of sun. If you wanted to do a ski descent from this side I think you would find the Edmonds Headwall route and better ski down. But since I haven't been on this route I wouldn't be able to tell you with a 100% certainty

My friend took a few photos that I will post as soon as I get the chance. Unfortunately, this route doesn't lend itself to taking a lot of photos because of the commitment level and steepness of the route.

A partner and I did the Central Mowich face on Rainer and boy were we in for a ride. We started from Mowish Lake and planned on doing a carry over. This is the suggested route and after checking out the area/route I can see why. Rather then try and thumb our way back my partner and I rented a car and parked it in the climbing parking lot at the White River camp ground. We camped over night on the 7/25 at Mowish Lake camp ground and started bright but not early on the 26th. The approach is pretty chill until you have to drop on to the Mowish Glacier. You take the Spray Ridge trail which is well marked and the cut off for the glacier is fairly well marked and the route finding is fairly straight forward. As soon as you have to drop onto the glacier is where the fun begins. To get to the Mowish Glacier you have to drop about 1000ft "scrambling" down really shitty rock. I suggest for anyone attempting that they do this early and get it over with because further up the ridge it starts to cliff in spots making getting down even more of a pain in the ass. As soon as you get on the glacier route finding was extremely tricky because of open crevasse's. The guide book we used suggests that you cruise straight up the Mowish Glacier to get to high camp. This is the route we took and the route finding was a huge pain and it tooks us a long time to get to the first high camp at 8400ft. I don't know why the guide suggests using this route because from high camp we could see a much more straight forward and easier approach to high camp. When you first get onto the glacier you will see a huge compression zone with a rock face on climber right before the terminus. If you cruise down to this rock band you can access the right side of the rock ridge. From that point it is a simple cruise up snow fields and talus slopes to high camp. This seems much easier then route finding through the heavely crevassed glacier. But I digress. The high camps at 8400 was super sweet and had plenty of places to set-up tents or bivies. The nice thing this high camps is there was running water so we didn't have to melt any snow. This high camp also gives you a decent view of the Central Mowish Face so you can preview your route. We started out early but not bright on the mornning of the 7/27. We crossed the shrund at about 10400ft by scrambling up so "rock" and traversing over to the snow slopes. From there we cruised up 40-55 degree snow and ice slopes until we reached 12700ft. We wanted to do the standard grade III route that accesses the rock ledges left but unfortunately the access gully was rock instead of ice so we did the right grade IV variation. The variation is a blast adding three pitches of 50-70 degree alpine ice to the route as well as a 1000ft of 60 degree hard pack snow to access the liberty cap glacier. We got to the top of liberty cap glacier around 4pm and started the slog to our next campsite at the summit crater. Finally we woke up at late on the 28th and started our decent down the Emmoons Glacier route and arrive back at the car around 530pm. Overall this was an amazing route and lots of fun. Though we didn't get to do our intended route the area offers plenty of options from which to choose from a couple things to keep in mind if you decide to do this route. 1)When you get to the Mowish Glacier quickly get to the right side of the ridge using the above directions. It will save you a lot of time and effort. 2)Bring guides for a couple of different routes in the area. The nice thing about this route is that you can access the Mowish Face, Sunshine ridge, Central Mowish Face, and the Edmunds Face route from this high camp. It also gives you a good vantage point so you can check out the different routes and see whats in. 3)The first 1000ft has a ton of rock fall so I suggest moving through this section quickly also if it is a windy day be prepared to be peppered with small rocks and small chunks of snow/ice beening blown off from the top of libery glacier while you are climbing the face. 4) Whats nice about this route is after the first 1000ft rock fall isn't as much of an issue, except for the above issue, and since the route faces NW the route doesn't get sun until very late in the, around 2pm, which means that you can take your time and enjoy the view if you like. 5) Finally, I suggest camping in the summit crater because carrying over the Emmoons on the same day would be an extremly long day and seeing the looks on the guided clients faces when you wake up as they are summitting is priceless.

I would love to do that but unfortunately, I don't have the time. I am pretty much going to get up there grab my car and come back. Thanks for the offer though

So here is the deal with the road from Mark the Assistant Director of Bugaboo Lodge. He says that the road is intermitently open and closed because of work on the road. He also says that smaller cars can make it but you have to be very careful on certain sections of the road because of rocks

So I am in a bind. Yesterday I ended up leaving my car at the bugaboo lodge and hitching hiking back to seattle because the road had been closed. I am looking to get back back to the bug's so I can get my car back. If some one is heading up there at the above times I am more then willing to split gas costs heading up there to get my car back. Also if some one is planning on trying to hitch hike out of there I am more then willing to pay them gas money to bring my car back. If you are interested please give me a call at 406-270-3157. PS: The road is destroyed and probably won't be repaired until Tues or Weds. It was in pretty bad condition when I left.

So I am in a bind. Yesterday I ended up leaving my car at the bugaboo lodge and hitching hiking back to seattle because the road had been closed. I am looking to get back back to the bug's so I can get my car back. If some one is heading up there at the above times I am more then willing to split gas costs heading up there to get my car back. Also if some one is planning on trying to hitch hike out of there I am more then willing to pay them gas money to bring my car back. If you are interested please give me a call at 406-270-3157.

Does anyone I know if the enchantment trail to Colchuck lake has been cleared yet. I had a friend go up there and said it was pretty bad with all of the fallen trees on the trail.

I have done trail work with the WTA for about 2 years and generally they are pretty neutral as far as climbing access is concerned. With this being said they have worked on climbing trails to help reduce climber impact on an area. The best example I can think of is Peshastin Pinicules where the improved a trail that provides climbing access. Another example is the snow creek wall trail which I am assuming they will do some work at some point during the summer, trust me it needs it

First off there aren't any ticks at Leavenworth this time of the season, to cold. Second me and my partner checked out snow creek and it is was really wet so went to Corino's crag and did The Regular. If you are willing to look there is tons of dry stuff at Leavenworth and with last couple of days being so warm I bet there will be even more in the next week.

LEt me be straight forward. Me and a friend are a planning a trip to Equador to do some volcanoes and we are looking for a more experienced mountaineer with glacier experience to help teach us and be our third. Neither of us have a lot of experience but both of us are willing to carry our load and willing to learn everything that you can cram into our heads. If interested go ahead and email me and I can provide you with more details PS: We are planning on being down there for 2 weeks in early June

The answer to the above questions is yes. yes. Not a lot but they do carry Omega Pacific and Metolius. Very deep. And Yes they sell tons of big wall stuff such as angles, pitons, ascenders, etc...Now to talk to all the nay sayers against REI would like to point out a couple of facts. First though REI is a camping, climbing, kayaking, biking, etc... each store in different areas are catered to the primary pursuits in that area. Por example, the Tri-cities store is geared towards to canoeing, kayaking, camping, and biking because these are main activities that can be found in the MN area. The reason they don't have much climbing stuff is because 1) there isn't a whole lot of outside climbing to be found there 2) Because of that not a whole lot of people are going buy cams. There are REI stores that have nothing but biking, camping, a little climbing stuff because those are the primary pursuits that go on in that area. Don't believe checkout the selection of kayaks at the Denver store sometime. They have them but it small compared to their biking, climbing, and backpacking. Same goes for the one in Bend, OR. They have shit load of biking stuff, I mean it is almost the whole floor, quite a bit of climbing stuff absolutely no kayaking/canoeing stuff...Why because nobody does that shit in the area. So in short the reason you cannot find a sales person that knows shit about your double boots is because only three people actually do that activity in your area. You want an REI with tons of climbing stuff move to an area with tons of climbing. Also to the people quoting REI's work record and how good they are trying working there sometime. Though it does has benefits, I have worked there and it isn't as great as the magazines would make you think. Just like any other large company with a huge work force there is a lot political bullshit and drama that goes on at REI.

I am going to be in Smith Rock for those dates and I am looking for some one willing to meet me out there to do some climbing. I am looking to do some trad and hard sport climbing, around 11 or so, but I am willing to change my schedule to fit a pontential partners need

Don't bother with the climbing at Kila. There are about six climbs there on questionable rock....As for climbing the Park, most of the climbing in Glacier is pretty epic stuff. Because of the nature of the rock, it tends to be very brittle and breaks easily so I don't think you are going to be able to find a decent non-committing route in that area. If you are really looking for some climbing about an hour north on 93 is Lake Koukanussa. This is a pretty decent area with some fun trad and bolted climbing. Realistically you are better off bring your mtn bike and checking out some of the amazing mtn biking then the climbing. Trust me I lived there for a while and search high and low for decent stuff and other then the Lake there is nothing up there worth your time/effort. PS: If you are interested in doing some rock scrambles there are some pretty moderate ones in glacier. I would check out Summit which is a quick one