Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by OlympicMtnBoy

  1. Cool, good work solo.  My partner dropped a microwave on me on the first pitch there, landed right on my belay spot but fortunately I jumped quick.  I found Terror terrifying for the rock, even compared to the other pickets.  Beautiful view though!  Right on with that trail, it works as long as you follow it!

  2. Hi Timmy,

      I was up there a week ago and this is correct.  Basically instead of that little steep snow pitch you can start up the rock right from the Five Fingers-West Peak saddle.  Either go directly over Five Fingers or drop down a bit into a loose screen gully to get there  You just start climbing and follow your nose kind of up and climbers left, wrapping around and up on ledges.  I don't think it's any harder than the normal finish but it is longer and dirtier.  You can descend back to the notch with a couple of 30m raps from existing anchors. Pic shows a climber heading up and left.


    There ya go, and this can serve as a teaser for my upcoming trip report including our traverse from the Valhallas and my unfortunate extraction via helicopter after a fall on the way to Mt. Tom.  Have fun and be safe up there!

  3. Awesome, I love seeing activity up there!  I dreamed about climbing that once but a hike to the base changed my mind. That is a mountaineering peak for sure but looks great from a distance.  If you need some partners for better rock big walls in BC let me know!  Not that many aid climbers up there anymore.

    TFPU here!

    • Rawk on! 1

  4. When I was more active in SAR and Mountain Rescue I generally had to register with the relevant county sherrifs office as an emergency worker and when we responded to a county initiated call we would have a mission number and liability coverage.  Registration didn't involve much other than a trip to the office and finger prints/pic.  Is PMR not under this sort of umbrella?  Has this sort of process changed?  Totally ignorant of the specific situation, hope it gets worked out in case I need a rescue down there some day!

  5. E4B2ED19-F0B5-4AA4-AA2E-7DD7832437BD.thumb.jpeg.b4d361125232e2bd31ad5a2022e3f163.jpeg4C9C1D37-A021-438B-9D02-4C2D3CB4AE01.thumb.jpeg.5c8b6d7c9b09fac7e8c4fcbb060e9bb1.jpeg08781571-4560-4601-A5C5-CEFD441A6552.thumb.jpeg.2213ef37758d25973ae68e227677bba4.jpeg87281FA0-3B69-4EC8-BE44-85D7CDDAFA4A.thumb.jpeg.e619bcd026528168c5fc131733777716.jpeg942B2123-CC95-4A64-AE65-79614A9E5040.thumb.jpeg.ac475447aa8078cbe3cc47f1636894cd.jpegD0CD21E8-CD4D-4FD4-8C06-3BC2C9A26C60.jpeg.d2d422f645d7b92eb7f8cbd6d5afd531.jpegTrip: Strobach - Strobach D Approach Pitch

    Trip Date: 02/09/2020

    Trip Report:


    It was my first time in there, figured it was a long shot but maybe still the best chance for ice last weekend.  Skied in the long road approach  towing a pull with my overnight gear with my buddy Mike on Saturday.  It was a long slow ski.  Camped at the end of the road with tasty pork chops and plenty of wine.  Got up in the morning and did some crappy tree crashing on skis to get to the climbs (lots of knee high blowdown).  Stuff was mostly out but there was lots of water flowing and it was below freezing so it seemed like things might come back.  A few things probably climbable for someone with more balls or less rusty ice tools.  We finally settled on a consolation of the easy approach pitch on “Strobach D” which I think has a new name and an ascent now (last flow on the right side of mother lode).  The actual pillar was a tiny bit thin for us in the middle but I bet is great now.  We also had fun TRing the mixed corner right of the approach slab ice.  Here are some more pics, you all should get on it!



    Also that approach was long both ways and too flat to ski down easily for half of it.  You could probably drive the road except for the signs saying it’s closed to all vehicles except registered snow mobiles.  Might be more snow this weekend though.  Maybe the other approach is better in these conditions?  I didn’t see any flagging or anything and the forest after the road end sucked with little snow.

    Gear Notes:
    Ice gear, camping gear, skis

    Approach Notes:
    Ski five miles up the road as in WA Ice, then crash through trees for a half mile.


    • Rawk on! 2

  6. My wife found her single mountaineering boots, 6.5, on Sierra Trading Post, ordered several sizes to find the right one and sent the rest back for free.  Might try that option for doubles.  I also might look at back country ski boots.  The new ones climb just as well as old plastics.  Might have better luck finding small sizes locally as well since the bc ski market is bigger.

  7. Wildsnow.com had some detailed Denali ski planning posts from 2018 and 2019 that might be worth reading, sounds like some like bigger boots and some made due with 40 below overboots or similar.  It does depend on your feet, overboots won’t help if you don’t have enough circulation.

  8. Another option is to get some like 1” inside diameter clear flexible tubing from the hardware store and shove a 6” piece of that over the pick and teeth.  Just make sure you take it off before it gets cold outside as the tubing gets harder in the cold and can get stuck in there.

    cardboard and tape is just about free though and works!  I also pack on the bottom of my duffel, pick flat against the bottom.