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tanstaafl

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Everything posted by tanstaafl

  1. Cy -- my partner actively hates photos and I normally just can't be bothered to take them, but just for you here is a typical granite-slabs-at-Darrington photo. OK, this one is from SCW instead of Three O'Clock Rock and it's Ken Ford's ass, rather than Rolf's ass, but the principle holds: this is what slab climbing photos look like. Enjoy! Jason, yeah, same here -- both on the # of cars and the timing for climbing there; but the forecast said 68, and the North Buttress mercifully isn't south-facing, so we decided to chance it. After making it a mere five pitches up Excalibur on a baking hot day before bailing, dehydrated, I like to think I learned my lesson. Probably not though. We definitely heard people (and a dog) around the corner on the South Buttress. How busy was it over there?
  2. Trip: Three O'Clock Rock - Silent Running Trip Date: 07/25/2020 Trip Report: I've been working 60 hours a week lately and really really needed a day out to just maintain sanity; so der Rat and I scampered up Silent Running this weekend. I was cheered to see that people apparently still get out to Darrington, though I never seem to hear anyone but Otto talk about it anymore. There were a *dozen* cars at the trailhead and we got scooped on Total Soul, our intended route, as two parties were just starting up it when we arrived. There wasn't anyone else on the North Buttress though so we went ahead and did the route in front of us instead. NIce and clean so obviously it's still getting climbed, unlike some of the obscurities to the right and left. It was an Alzheimer's first ascent -- we did it together seven years ago but neither of us could even remember which pitches we led. Still seven pitches of good fun and it was such a beautiful day that I, the woman who is always cold, was comfortable in a t shirt and cotton pants rolled up. In contrast, all four climbers on Total Soul were wearing matching long sleeve hoodies with the hoods *on* all day long. Maybe they were all from Arizona or something and found 70 degrees to be cold? Here's to more and better climbing and much, much less work for the rest of the summer. Gear Notes: two ropes, one small rack, ten draws Approach Notes: hike up the trail
  3. Welcome Natalie! Nice to see a new face around here. Amazing photos; looks like a stellar trip.
  4. Rick La Belle did another route on the NE Rib for sure; he appears to have climbed all over that area; he also has a 5.7 route up the north side of Hoodoo. I also only have the second edition of Beckey, so there might be even more in the third edition plus whatever nobody bothered to report.
  5. Well, he did say the route reminded him of the route you two did on Cleator — was that Tubby Needs Cheese? — so there's that! And no arm twisting required; it was his idea in fact. I can think of few activities I would find less rewarding than trying to convince R to do something he didn't want to do. True we saw hardly any people back there; which was awesome. Seemed like granite to me, but I'm no geologist.
  6. Nice! Daniel is a tricky one to get without a snowmobile early in the season or carrying your skis a looong way later in the season. Looks like a stellar trip!
  7. Ah, the ever popular complaining about other people's TRs. Same as it ever was. Please refer to this classic trip report responding to a classic complaint about trip reports. Then just go read everything else Uncle_Tricky ever wrote, it will keep you out of trouble and be a way more entertaining way to spend yer day than working.
  8. Trip: Corax Peak - North Face Trip Date: 07/05/2020 Trip Report: Not a single TR for this route to be found anywhere; does everyone just do the scramble to tick off their Bulger lists? Rolf and I climbed the NF of Corax Peak this weekend, 6 pitches of 5.7 starting from the left side of the chimney above the crescent shaped snowfield in the photo, going up to the ridge and thence to the summit. Mostly fun blocky ridge climbing, though the first pitch was more "interesting" as Rolf would say, featuring lichen and some loose/suspect rock and excavation of placements and some thoughtful moves. It doesn't appear that it's gotten much traffic since Rick La Belle did the FA in 1991; though of course we could have been off route. Stellar day out though and only saw three people at camp and maybe five on the trail. Gear Notes: 60 m rope, single rack to #3 Camalot Approach Notes: Libby Lake trail
  9. Don't know about you, but I'm heading into geezer territory.
  10. In fact, the entire state of Washington sucks. Everyone should just go back to wherever they were 20 to 30 years ago. Right? Grumpy old curmudgeons unite!
  11. I saw excerpts from that at a party once; the wife of the guest of honor introduced the film by saying, "You don't need to be a climber to appreciate how ridiculous this is, you just need a basic understanding of the laws of physics." Imagine someone flinging themselves down on a completely flat snowfield and then making progress across the snow by plunging the head of their ice ax into the snow and dragging themselves six inches at a time. It was spectacular.
  12. Trip: Banks Lake - various Trip Date: 06/20/2020 Trip Report: There is still solitude to be had if you stay away from the Icicle Creek/Frenchman's shitshow(s) -- this weekend at Banks, we literally had the entire crag to ourselves on Saturday (well, except for the two guys who drove up the coulee in an ORV, saw us climbing, said, “We can’t shoot here,” and drove away, bless them) and saw only two other parties on Sunday. Should have taken both pairs of rock shoes; it was my first time rock climbing since early February and by 5 pm yesterday I could barely stand on my feet anymore and we had to quit. Didn’t climb anything noteworthy but sooo nice to get out and breathe the desert air. Drive home was even fine except for the usual 5 – 20 mph disaster between Roslyn and Easton. I don’t understand why that particular stretch always sucks so much, but it does. Gear Notes: rope, rack, slings/draws Approach Notes: I-90 to SR 283 to SR 17
  13. A friend sent me the link to this climbing and skiing video; for your enjoyment while we're all waiting to get back out there: https://www.facebook.com/100002422883876/posts/2825174387573296/?d=n
  14. well, he's married to me, so he gets a lot of practice being understanding.
  15. I'm just happy that it happened there instead of on either of my upcoming hut trips, and with a partner who just said, "oh thank God, now we can go drink beer" instead of being pissed I ruined the day. hah.
  16. hey, I spent yesterday breaking a binding on Smithbrook Road, so you could have done worse.
  17. That's exactly why I ended up getting out of mountain rescue.
  18. Please reply back with how it goes! I don't have any need for them this minute but I'm sure I will in the future.
  19. yeah, when I checked in with der Rat as to how he felt about me spending a boatload of cash on an Ikon Pass, he said would only approve if I visited my college roomie in SLC and skied there too. (That guy really abuses his powers as head of the household.) Now it looks like it might the only way to get my money's worth out of it! Might even have to do a second trip in the spring..... btw stellar photos as always, especially the Dome and Whitechuck shots.
  20. my current plan b is to spend next week skiing around SLC. here's hoping for ten days of storms while I'm away.
  21. I haven't used these guys (this guy?) so can't testify as to quality, but saw their flyer on the bulletin board at Vertical World: https://highmountaingearandrepair.com/
  22. To this day every time I see hello kitty I think "alpine kitty."
  23. biners are spoken for, thanks.
  24. 16 old school ovals in perfectly fine condition. pick up greenwood or downtown seattle. dragon not included.
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