fenderfour

maaan.... Ok, I will do it. I'm posting up $500 in matching funds if you post your pledge by Monday 5/24 at 3:00pm. Thanks for getting this started Rad. Remember, there is some cool Schwag to be had for donating to the fund. http://www.washingtonclimbers.org/IndexFund/gifts.htm Let's see how much the spraying denizens of cc.com can raise!

Check out www.yatesgear.com or www.fishproducts.com

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Redpoint in Terrebonne has a BD single for 25% off.

Rattletale p2 is pretty amazing...

I'll take them. I need more draws for aiding.

I would consider selling a set if the money generated can buy a similar set of mastercams.

Why are you set on aliens? I wouldn't hesitate to get offset mastercams if I didn't already have two sets of offset aliens.

This thread is full of speculation and assholery.

Beaks (tomahawks included) can be used like nuts. Hand place them, weight them gently and hope they hold. You may want a hammer to tap them out afterward. Sometimes they get stuck, even when hand placed.

I thought Metolius bought the design for WB. Basically, you would be buying a Metolius cam without the last 10 years of improvements...

they make thing nutting less scary.

I'm guessing Sloth's wall is near index. It might be named after an artist of some sort... Just a guess.

I have the old 11worth guide I will donate to the cause (last edition Kramar). PM your address and I will mail it out.

stay in the Tumwater area. There will be a LOT of climbing clubs in the Icicle this weekend. The Seattle Mounties, the Boealps, and even WAC will be gaping up the crags. The old guidebook has mileage to the "trailheads"

cost a cheap pair of dark sunglasses that cover well are great for local mountains. I would probably get some glacier glasses for higher peaks to make sure there were no light leaks around the edges.

I have the kilowatts and they are a great all-around ski. Stiff enough to break crud and fat enough to float my fat ass.

My search skills suck - couldn't find that post I'm guessing the end nearest the cable? Just smooth over any sharp edges? I understand that the flat surfaces and the slide area are what's providing the friction but could filing the edges lessen holding ability to any degree? I use these (ballz) (occassionally) in small, nearly parallel cracks where a nut might not set. I suppose a C3 would work in most cases that I've seen. Haven't had any problems with removing one yet but haven't fallen on one either I couldn't find it either. File off all sharp edges on the face of the ball and on the ramp. These edges get caught up on crystals and bumps and get your ballnuts stuck. They can also make a bad placement seem good. Joseph also had a trick to melt and flatten the tube covering the trigger on the smallest ballnuts.

IMHO, the gear you should have/buy (in order): nuts set of cams, 00 TCU-#3 another set of cams, 00 TCU -#3 Alloy Offset nuts Brass offset nuts Offset Cams (alien blue/black-green yellow) Hooks (BD set, with Moses Cam Hooks) another set of alloy offset nuts another set of brass offset nuts another set of offset cams Ball nutz 1-3 (the biggest two are not very useful) another set of ballnutz 1-3 Beak set piton assortment (based on route) You don't NEED this stuff, but it will help. Once you have some offsets you will wonder why you even bothered climbing without them. Hooks should be added when you want to climb a route with hooking. I don't think TC or GDO has any mandatory hooking. Ballnutz make Lost Arrow size cracks go clean but they are tricky to use.

Cleaning nuts, yes. Hooks? I've done a fair amount of hooking and I've never used my hammer.

the old military pitons are ok, but the sellers usually have a ton of the same size for sale.

#1 and #2 ballnutz are great for LA sized cracks. You could use that crazy purple Zero, but I'm too fat for that thing. Cleaning ballnutz isn't too hard if you filed off the corners as HealyJE suggests in a post somewhere on this site. Before you even try the trigger, rotate the Ballnut around the Ball to pop it loose. Sometimes you have to yank it pretty hard. Once it's loose pull the trigger and remove. edited to add: The nuts from climbtech start at 8-10mm, much larger than ballnutz.

It's important to think about the failure mode when sorting out a back-up. I've only heard about two types of failures with modern ascenders. 1. Dynamic fall caught by the ascender and the rope breaks 2. ascender twists off the rope on a traversing pitch With the first failure, either ascender could cause the rope to break if a fall is taken. The backup needs to be above the devices to be effective. The second failure leaves the rope in tact, so we don't need to worry about where the backup is placed. you know, just a thought. RE: Wallstein - I'm screwed. I couldn't leave enough weight at the belay to make a difference. I have come to terms with the fact that I will never lead 5.13 or even 5.12, but I was really hoping to get to A4.

or more 7mm and 8mm nylon... FYI - "cordelette" is a 20-ish foot length of static nylon cord (typically perlon) that is used for equalizing anchors.

maaan, Anselmo doing AIC rocked my shit. [video:youtube]