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fenderfour

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Everything posted by fenderfour

  1. I'm not sure I would recommend an Element for towing. I've got a 2011. It's a fat bastard with a relatively small engine. Things go slow with a full load of friends driving over mountain passes. I'm not sure if I would also ask it to pull even a small trailer (caravan).
  2. I saw a poster in Cap Hill yesterday and I thought I would spread the word: http://squamishfestival.com/ I'm not shilling, just warning the community about the shitshow Squamish will be that weekend.
  3. Hey you big-footed sonofabitch. I've got a pair of short intuition liners size 14/15 that you can have for free. These are made for plastic mountaineering boots, and are not tall enough for ski or snowboard boots. Pickup in Seattle Central District only. They are in great shape. I formed them, used them on one climb and didn't like them at all. That was about 5 years ago. They have lived in the closet ever since. You can reform them yourself using your own oven if you are careful. Check for videos on Youtube.
  4. Generally, yes. It only takes one local pissing off the top to make the Waterway Route a waterway.
  5. It's easy, just like it always is. There are crevasses along the route. You will have to cross them. I don't recommend soloing the glacier.
  6. First pitch of the waterway traverses in from the left and ends on the big ledge to the left of the GA P3 anchor. Bring cam hooks, ballnuts, and a big hook to climb the pitch clean. You can walk along the ledge to get there. CFF and I removed some 1/4 split shanks and replaced them with 1/2 SS 5 piece bolts. The plan was to rap down to replace the bolts of the first pitch of GA, but it was too hot, we were too lazy, we ran out of beer, etc... The arch pitch doesn't need any hammering. Bring cam hooks, ballnuts, and brass. The pitch after the arch involves some sketchy hooking on cornflakes stuck to the wall. Have fun with that.
  7. World's toughest milkman, Smoke Bluffs Connection (due the 5.8 to the left of jabberwocky)
  8. Some of the climbs at the Pearly Gates were dry on Sunday. The far right is very wet. In: Loaves of Fun, No Room for Squares, Cloud 9, and Easy Pickens Out: Celestial Groove (total swamp), Leap of faith, Pearly gates, poison balance, etc...
  9. Start trying on 14's. Some are bigger than others. The Lowa Mountain Pro (in 14) fits my size 15's.
  10. I've been using one for about two years now. I don't know what fabric it is, probably the EVent. No overfill, but I only use it in the spring/summer. You hard-assed bastards must like to suffer. It's a good bag. So far, I've paired it with a FF Helios and been toasty down to about freezing while sleeping on snow with a Therm-a-rest prolite 3 3/4 length. I'm 6'3" 215. The bag is snug but I haven't had any unusual problems with compression and cold spots.
  11. I recommend against relying on wands to mark cracks. The cracks don't really care where you put wands and will open up in the most inopportune places and times. I used wands for a number of years. They made me angry, I realized there was a better way.
  12. Stop this microfracture business. That's not how aluminum fails. Aluminum is a ductile material that deform much more readily than it cracks. The cracks that do develop are not hidden. Material failure is a pretty complicated business. A lot more info is needed to even speculate what went wrong. Right now, the only assumption that can be made is that the carabiner broke.
  13. I would get a cheap GPS and use the 5 foot bamboo stick to make a small fort for the neighborhood children. I haven't had issues with reception on Rainer. Once you are on the glacier it's pretty wide open. You can keep it tracking the entire climb so you can retrace, or you can turn it on every few minutes to set a waypoint. Either way, keep it inside your jacket to keep the batteries warm.
  14. I heard about a neat route off I-90 that is a recommended solo: http://www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=609840&confirm_post=12
  15. I was up there with a party on Sunday without floatation. We are stronger than we are smart.
  16. I'll take it. Check PM's.
  17. I don't always climb Yocum Ridge, but when I do, I use 29 70m ropes.
  18. I really like these lines: "If you want to do a climb in such pure style as to leave nothing behind, go for it. Although you might find it hard to get anyone else to repeat it. If you want to put up a climb with bolts every three feet, go for it. Although you might find it hard to get anyone else to respect it." "I'm never going to climb 5.13 the standard back then, let alone 5.15, but maybe I could put up a route that was so good as to earn a sixth " Thanks for sharing your perspective.
  19. I've got some grivel G14's with the monopoint kit and an extra set of front points. look like these with a bit of wear: http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/8-g14. One set of points is in good condition, the other set needs some sharpening. FYI - my set is a little older and does not have the accordion thingy. They do have the yellow anti-bot plates. I'd like $125 + Shipping.
  20. I got the brand name of the binding wrong, but I think "requires heel and toe welts" is pretty clear. I will see about getting some pics. They are used crampons, which means they are a little rusty in the tight places and might need to be sharpened a little. One set of points is almost new, the other set is definitely used.
  21. Pair of Grivel G14's for sale. Used, but still lots of life in them. Newmatic binding (I think) which requires heel and toe welts. This set has the long bar which easily fits size 15 boots. Comes with spare set of front points. $125 + Shipping, Paypal preferred Retail - $224 for crampons $42 for points
  22. 2x 60m to the ground. 2x what telemarker said. Jugging the roof is a special treat.
  23. +1 for the Vireo. I've used it for about a year. I need a slightly warmer puffy to pair it with, though. I'm a huge fan of the Cold Cold World packs. The Chernobyl and the Valdez are really good small overnight bags. They are decidedly old school. I have owned older Cilogear packs. They were nice, but I preferred the simplicity of the CCW.
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