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Everything posted by shapp

  1. RIP Corvallisclimb

    Tyler's stoke was unmatched. I have so many emails from him with the best quotables, just a few I could drum up quickly. Tyler was a modern day TM Herbert with the pen, I mean keyboard: On putting up routes in the Owyhee canyon lands: Sweet... I've been drooling over the spire pics down there for years. I've got a couple of power drills, and shit fuck tons of boltin supplys... what you thinken, something that may require a bolt ladder? Tuff does drill extremely fast by had, but power is always nice . Well lets just keep tossing the stoak around and make it happen! On beating Lyme disease: Should be rid of this Lyme Disease soon, then I can get drunk more often too! On Mr. Frick: CAPTAIN FUCKING FRIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On finding new crags: god that picture looks fucking familiar like something ive seen... ive seen so much shit now im always forgetting need to keep better track of shit! buttt so where is it then? heres some random shit we found last week up upper soda off hw 20. On the night before heading out on a road trip to put up some routes: Sweeeeet GOD IM STOAKED... this is the kinda shit I eat up... Looks absolutly killer. Mark, you are not getting those hangers back! Shapp is sad tonight
  2. RIP Corvallisclimb

    A dear friend has passed, classic Tyler video and one of my favorites: [video:youtube]
  3. I just shot myself in the eye with my own load! Bitchin!
  4. you were lost, it was better than you describe when we first started putting up Other Side of the Tracks
  5. panic attacks after accident?

    I highly recommend this book that covers a lot of what you are feeling: http://warriorsway.com/the-rock-warriors-way-mental-training-for-climbers-2/
  6. I recently purchased a life insurance policy and they had not questions related to climbing. They did have questions about parachuting, scuba, and a few other activities.
  7. Trip: Hawaii and Kauai - across the pacific Date: 3/15/2014 Trip Report: March 15 to 22, Hawaii (Big Island) in WV camper van and couch surfing March 22 to 30, Kauai various couch surfing 2 week trip to celebrate the 15 year anniversary Most memorable, snorking at Tunnels Beach, 12' tiger shark chases monk seal onto beach while I am snorking about 100 yards away oblivious. I was excited because I saw a 7' reef shark, I was more excited when I came in and the wife related the tiger shark story.
  8. Camping fees were only outrageous at county parks on the Big Island (i.e. Hawaii County). Each island is its own county I have been to Oahu, Maui, Kauai, and Hawaii (the Big island). We like the Big Island and Kauai the best but each for different reasons. The Big Island is well "big" and very diverse. Chances are you can find someplace with good weather to do just about any activity. Kauai has is pretty amazing and totally different than the Big Island. Oahu and Maui are also really fun, but we like Kauai and The Big Island the best of those 4. Water, do a little research and if you settle on visiting Kauai or the Big Island, send me a PM and I will give you some details on some good beachs spots.
  9. http://happycampershawaii.com/ Be advised the county of Hawaii (all of the Big Island) changed camping fees at county parks (most of the places available to camp "legally"). Fees for non-resident (without HI identification) is now $20 per night per person, which is outrageously expensive as all of the camping parks have few ammenities. HI residents still pay $5 per person. The theory is that the facilities are run down and they need to raise money to fix them up. But who is going to pay $20 a night per person to camp with run down facilities. Luckily there are many places that a discrete VW pop top can camp that kick ass that are free.
  10. Unfortunate story: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2613705/Horror-rock-climber-swept-walking-tightrope-cliffs.html?ITO=1490&ns_mchannel=rss&ns_campaign=1490
  11. Truck set-up pics

    2 weeks in Hawaii makes me drift off topic
  12. [TR] Monkey Face - West Face 2/2/2014

    It was way more fun in the early 1990s when you could pull out every other bolt, inspect, then re-insert, and when half the belay bolts were no good, kind of overshadowed the mantles then. However, the mantles weren't that fun "with" a belayer
  13. The rash is scary when dry!
  14. Darrington, Long routes, granite, no people
  15. eastern oregon

    You have to turn this into a trip report with pics, you would be in serious running for oddest TR ever on CC climbers. Seriously, make a TR out of this , no offense intended, I don't ever remember reading something this obscure on this site.
  16. eastern oregon

    The strawberry's aren't a place for first time ice climbers. There is some short ice at Anthony lakes, hike up to Hoffer lakes, there is a short 20' falls up angel basin on the right side hiking up just after leaving hoffer lakes (couple hundred yards up from the lake on the right). Good little top rope spot. Can also access by riding the lift up then skiing down to Hoffer and then up toward Angel Basin.
  17. Study Up and Be Safe My Friends

    Good paper. One thing that stood out to me was the authors repetion that experience is the difference between a good and a bad screw placement. Yet the study data does not address this at all. I wonder if experience had any bearing on whether a screw would hold per say. It would be interesting to see them repeat this study with 1 set of fairly in-experienced ice climbers place screws, 1 treatment of good placement and 1 treatment as bomber placement, then another set of the same treatments placed by "experienced" ice climbers. Doing the fall test and testing the difference between "good" and "bomber" placements and then novice vs experienced placements. Then we might find some more interesting info on how to identify the "best" placement attributes.
  18. Bustin' Into the North - Becky Guide Outdated?

    Simmer down Hoss. You were posting about where to get avi instruction earlier this year. I would suggest a little slower intro than soloing "easy" climbs in the North Cascades is warranted. Build up some skills with partners before going it alone.
  19. How one could climb this route and not do the final pitch is incomprehensible. Defenitely 5.10 though.
  20. Skull Hollow CG

    How can that be, I thought it was on BLM land
  21. I got to TR the first couple pitches and did some moss scrubbing several years go with Chris and a few others when he was working on the route. I thought it would have made a great route if finished.
  22. Is this the project to the left of Traxs that Chris Greyell started severl years ago then abandoned?
  23. Chris Greyell

    I knew whan I got home last night and listened to Mark's phone message, something terrible had happened, the tone said it all. A call back to confirm a terrible tradgedy had occurred. I had the pleasure of climbing with chris several times over the last decade or so, around Darrington, Rocky Reach Around, Red Rocks. But the most memorable was when several of us hiked into Squire Creek for perhaps the first real time to seriously scope what came to be known as the "Roan" wall. Mark Hanna, Matt Perkins, Dave Whitelaw, Jim Nelson, Chris and myself. Below are a couple photos of that day, Chris with Dave and the "Roan Wall" That next summer was when Chris and others first charged up there with the modern routes. The other photo is TR of Trophy Wife at Spring Mountain. I will miss the annual climbers get together at the Greyell house to share photos of the previous years adventures, and more importantly, and what Chris was really jazzed about, was what was to come for next year! CHris, you will be missed! Hike to scope the "Roan Wall" "The Roan Wall" "The Trade Mark Yellow Pants" I bet chris is scrubbing the moss off another great classic in the sky, who among us will take over The Big Moss Raper moniker now!