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shapp

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Everything posted by shapp

  1. Or more than 1 trim, more than one group cuts logs and brush off that road. Good on you!
  2. I sat on a rock with a rattler under it at the base of the goat wall. I got charged by a bull while hiking to a crag.
  3. Got some climbing info from Matt L that wrote the boaters guide book.
  4. I think about Tyler about ever day, That is classic Tyler! Thanks!
  5. That is pretty much the line of my thinking, can't stay long enough in 1 place to pioneer a new long multi pitch. If there are existing multi pitch, I doubt someone is going to really let me in on it as it is likely very top secret. Hoping to get some bit of info if there are a few camps along the way that have sweet splitters right near by (a pitch or 2). When we went on the main a few years ago, I couldn't find any info on actual climbing along the river trip, so I had a look at the whitewater campsites page and looked at all the pics of the camps to see if any had good looking cliffs right at camp. Sure enough we found some. Cliffs within 100 feet of the tents with splitters, which we climbed. In addition to the sweet splitter just down the road from the Vinegar Creek takeout on the main past the bridge a little bit!
  6. Yes I know I will be traveling right by the sawtooths to get to the put in. Will be on a Middle Fork Salmon River float trip in August. Looks like a lot of granite in there. Any one ever do any climbing while on a Middle Fork salmon river float trip? We brought a full trad rack on a Main Salmon trip a few years ago and were able to do some climbing right at camp. Wondering about this same type of potential on the Middle Fork. Thanks!
  7. I forgot to add one of my favorite climbs: Bender-Axen on Mt. Lemon, AZ. Those chicken head knobs are crazy!
  8. 1) Have climbed Favorites (hard to list only 3 to 5). Epinepherine (Red Rocks) West Face Variation of Monkey Face (Smith) Finger of Fate (Sawtooths) Slick Rock regular route pre-bolted belays (ID) Other Side of the Tracks (Spring Mt. WA) Outer Space (Leavenworth, WA) Dreamer, Green Giant Buttress (WA) Silent Running with bonus pitch (3 o'clock rock) 2) Capable of or would be if skills were improved, but have not climbed. Morgul Vale (Wolf Rock) Elephants Perch (something under 5.11) Triassic Sands (Redrocks) Frigid Air Buttress (Redrocks) Mt. Wilson (Redrocks) 3) Admire but will never climb. anything hard
  9. shapp

    Slick Rock

    Oh snap, I stand corrected. Steeper than I remember from the 2 times I climbed it in the summer, about 7 years ago. I assume the road in there is not plowed in winter so you would need to ski or take a snow machine in there to ice climb?
  10. shapp

    Slick Rock

    hell, its so low-angle, you could probably ski it.
  11. anyone ever climb this? [video:youtube]
  12. Not the oldes stuff in the world, but some interesting trinkets: couple old pins, Cambell saddle wedges (slung ones I still use), couple old chouinard hexs ( I still use, D-Best Quickie (slider nut). Old gear sling I still use made by Crazmaniac (C&S)
  13. Based on the huge attendence at the memorial, Tyler touched a lot of people, including myself. We'll miss you. The poem on his memorial: Still round the corner there may wait A new road or a secret gate. And though I oft have passed them by A day will come at last when I Shall take the hidden paths that run West of the Moon, East of the Sun. -J.R.R. Tolkien I plan on putting up a memorial route to Tyler next spring in the Owyhee, a tower we scoped together but did not get a chance to climb. I am thinking the route might eventually be called the Tyler Adams Memorial Route: West of the Moon, East of the Sun.
  14. there is a massive number of climbs at red rocks that seam to barely get climbed and are just as fun or nearly so as the routes with all the lines. I infact think that the guidebook authors chose to give 4 stars to a few climbs to concentrate folks away from their actual favorite routes, which they give no stars and R and X ratings too
  15. The paper indicated the services are on Friday November 7: A celebration of Tyler's life will take place at 4 p.m. Friday, Nov. 7, at the Corvallis Airport. I plan on attending.
  16. If anyone hears when the memorial service is, please let me know. Thanks, Jason Shappart
  17. That particular climb with Pat meant a lot to Tyler, in his own words: The Callis Route with Callis! Earlier this summer I got a call from Jeff Thomas asking if I wanted to hike up to the Menagerie and climb the classic Callis Route on the Hen with non other than Pat Callis himself. So obviously I was game and really quite excited. Now I don't have a ton to say about the climbing that day since all we did was climb the Hen a couple times so Jeff could shoot video and snap some pictures. But god damn was it cool to hang out with Pat, he's over 70 and still cranks as hard as your average 25 year old. His memory from the day of the FA of the Hen was as clear as they day he did it, which by the way was back in the 50's before %99 of us had ever put on a harness. Pat is now a professor at Montana State University, climbs regularly, and even still climbs ice as much as he can. A true inspiration for anyone!
  18. A few more Tylerism's from our conversations over the years, which all of his friends will appreciate: On unscrupulous guidebook authors (an email he sent to a particular author he distained and CCed me on): YOU FUCKING COPIED MY INFORMATION I POSTED FOR FREE RIGHT OFF THE INTERNET FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL SATISFACTION!!! On gainful? employment: I am in, assuming I don't get one of those job things... On gear responsibilities: Cool I'll supply the liqour/hangers then On climbing during sub-optimal conditions: Managed to climb morgul vale on sunday in a fucking down pour with my friend steve. Was pretty funny, soaking wet on every pitch, but good to know you can still climb it in the rain, fuckin-a that rocks got friction.
  19. Tyler's stoke was unmatched. I have so many emails from him with the best quotables, just a few I could drum up quickly. Tyler was a modern day TM Herbert with the pen, I mean keyboard: On putting up routes in the Owyhee canyon lands: Sweet... I've been drooling over the spire pics down there for years. I've got a couple of power drills, and shit fuck tons of boltin supplys... what you thinken, something that may require a bolt ladder? Tuff does drill extremely fast by had, but power is always nice . Well lets just keep tossing the stoak around and make it happen! On beating Lyme disease: Should be rid of this Lyme Disease soon, then I can get drunk more often too! On Mr. Frick: CAPTAIN FUCKING FRIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! On finding new crags: god that picture looks fucking familiar like something ive seen... ive seen so much shit now im always forgetting need to keep better track of shit! buttt so where is it then? heres some random shit we found last week up upper soda off hw 20. On the night before heading out on a road trip to put up some routes: Sweeeeet GOD IM STOAKED... this is the kinda shit I eat up... Looks absolutly killer. Mark, you are not getting those hangers back! Shapp is sad tonight
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