aukushner

We tried today -- the forecast was for snow, but was 'supposed' to end around 11. We headed out of the parking lot a bit past 10 in a rain/snow mix. As we got to tree line we were teased with some sun and blue sky breaks - but they quickly went away and instead the visibility decreased with snow, fog and clouds. Not sure how far we went before we decided to turn around. We ran into some other folks who made it up further than us and said the visibility just got worse. On a brighter note - the skiing was really fun and you can make it almost back to your car!

haven't gone yet -- thinking about saturday

depending on the weather - hoping to get up later this week. Any info on the conditions? skiing?

where would you go to climb mountains? a friend and I are looking to travel in august 2010 -- we would like our travels to include some mountains to climb. where would you go if you could go anywhere?

A friend and I are going to hit up shasta june 30th. we are flexible on timing/route -- any suggestions for that time frame? We are watching the climbing advisories carefully -- and will choose our route from that but looking for any beta as the time gets closer. thanks.

if you think of it this way - that there are 4 sections of the inter - the 1st really steep one from the trail, then a flat section, then a steeper, then the final flat section. It was on the 1st flat section just above the steep section which is actually a snowfield (crevasses start at the top of it) if that makes sense.....

I am not sure I want to put this out there to the world and exploit it! My karma was with me for sure down there (as were plenty of images from Touching the Void). I don't think i could have been any luckier with the fall.... although my elbow and my arms are getting really big now! Off to the doctor tomorrow!

Climb: Rainier-Emmons (long TR includes rescue) Date of Climb: 7/25/2004 Trip Report: Saturday (7/24) morning we headed up from the White River parking lot at 6:30 am to Camp Shurman, trying to avoid some of the heat. When we got to the Interglacier, we roped up there in order to cross over the Inter and then down over the ridge onto the Emmons. Other than the heat and sun, all the crossings went well and we arrived at Camp Shurman around 1:30. Dave, the climbing ranger, met us and let us know a little about the route – basically mentioning that it was taking people anywhere from 6-10 or more hours to summit and that people were busting through on crevasses – mostly just up to their knees, maybe hips. That afternoon, we talked to a lot of people who said that it took them at least 10 hours to summit, and they were coming down throughout the afternoon. With that in mind, we decided to get up at 11:30 pm. Woke up to gorgeous skies full of stars, and were on the way up by 12:30. The first half of the way up was warm, and we were climbing strong. I had never been above 12,000 or whatever the elevation of Adams is, but I felt strong and good during the whole climb – as did Eric and Vik. We were able to witness a gorgeous sunrise just as we were below the bergshrund, and summited at 7:30. We hung out at the top for close to an hour, feeling really good about the time it took us to summit, but knew that we had a lot ahead of us! We headed down around 8:30, made some good choices in route, and I, as lead, only went into a small crevasse right near Emmons flat up to my knee. We were back in camp at 11:00, but wanted to get past the Inter while the day was still early. After resting, eating and drinking at Shurman for about an hour, we packed up and headed down. We were able to get through the lower Emmons and over the ridge onto the Inter safely and were feeling really good. We got about half way down the Inter and saw all the glissade routes and decided to take one of them, thus unroping. Although we all kept had our harnesses on. Vik decided to pursue some more glissades, and Eric and I were walking together and talking. Eric and I knew that there were some open crevasses to climbers left, so we headed to the right side. The snow looked flat with no major depressions. All of a sudden I stepped forward and my foot broke through a thin layer of snow to nothingness – and I fell. I threw my arms out, but I could feel myself falling along with snow. It is hard to say how long I was falling, but I stopped, suspended in air. I checked in with myself to figure out what was happening…. I knew I had fallen into a crevasse, and was saved by my backpack wedging itself in between the ice walls, thus catching me from falling further. I was faced sideways in the crevasse with my left arm pinned up against the ice wall and my backpack. My right arm was at my side, and my feet were dangling in the air. I called out to the guys that I was ok, but I had no idea how deep I was in there, since I could not look up due to my backpack pressing my neck and head forward. They could not hear me since I was facing downwards as well – and in there pretty far (afterwards they said that I was probably 40’ down) They tried to drop a rope down to me at first, but it was on the opposite side (I could feel it with my foot behind me) and I tried to yell out directions, but again, they could not hear me. At this point, I was working hard to wedge myself as best as possible, with the fear that if I moved too much, my pack might slip, or the waist strap might unbuckle. I also was melting the ice around me, which was a cuase for concern…. I heard some other voices up above – and it turns out that a group of 4 was coming up the Interglacier and came over to help. One of the guys took a cell and ran down the trail until he could get reception and he called 911 which in turn got the message to Dave, the ranger, up at Shurman. At this point, in the crevasse, I was working hard to check in with myself, assure myself that I would live, and not to panic. I just kept breathing, ‘zen breaths aurora, zen breaths’ but I had moments of complete panic. Finally, they were able to drop a rope down to me on the correct side of me which was VERY exciting. They then dropped down a second rope on a carabiner for me to connect with – which was probably the best moment I have had in a long time. One of group of 4 (guys from Missouri and Arkansas) was an EMT and he was calling down to me, talking to me, in the calmest voice ever, which was so soothing. I relaxed a lot after locking into the rope and talking to him. Once I was roped up, I wanted to get out of the backpack. I made the very stupid mistake of unbuckling my waist strap first and tried to strangle myself with the sternum strap. At that point, I was very consciously working on my breaking and swearing that I better not die of strangulation after I was roped up! I somehow got my head out of the strap and my left arm free (probably could not repeat that feat again if I tried!) – and I was hanging on the rope! What a sweet moment! I think it was at that moment that I yelled up to them that if they pulled me up I would buy them all beer! They asked if I wanted my pack up, and while I was figuring that I would leave it, I said sure since they offered and they said they had me. So I took the extra rope that was there and tried to figure out how to tie in a figure 8 (that took awhile!) and they pulled my pack out when I was ready. Snow poured down on me, and at that point I was shivering pretty bad. Finally they started to pull me up. I just closed my eyes until I got to the top and clawed my way out, crying rolling away from the edge. I was dripping wet, and the 7 guys who were there helped me get into drier warm cloths and a sleeping bag. They got me hats and gloves and neckwarmers and hot chocolate. I do not think that I have ever had so many men helping me put cloths on in my life! But no joke, they were all so incredible and kind and patient and calm. Meanwhile, the call had gone into Dave – and while I did not see him, he was headed down out way about 5-10 minutes after I got out. Since I had been down in the crevasse for about 45 minutes, I was mildly hypothermic so it took awhile to warm up. My neck also hurt from having my pack both land on it and press it down the whole time I was down there – so they stabilized me and checked out my back – but all was good. I was pretty bruised up (I was bleeding a bit while in the crevasse – which I could not figure out what it was at first) – my arms look pretty ghastly at this time – red underneath from my pits to my hands just about – and very swollen and black and blue is starting to set in. I hung out getting warm for about 40 minutes and then said thank you to the guys going up and Eric, Vik and myself went down the rest of the interglacier with Dave escorting us. At the bottom, Paul (I am pretty sure that is his name – my memory for all the details is a little shot), a backcountry ranger, met us to escort us out as well. I carried my pack and walked out. Other than being pretty swollen in my arms and my left shoulder, major bruising on my neck and my knees (from banging around trying to wedge myself in) and my ribs being sore from the waist belt, I am ok. A bit traumatized, but ok. Feeling very very very lucky. Lessons learned: 1. Rope up on the interglacier. Almost no one was roped up there – so if you are going up there - rope up! Those crevasses are really well hidden. While they were taking care of me, we saw many parties go by not roped up and several people go into up to their knees. 2. If you are hanging by your backpack, take the sternum strap off first. Waist belt first doesn’t work as good 3. the climbing community, strangers or not (including park service), are amazingly kind and helpful. Thank you for saving my life! (if i have any of your clothing, please PM me and I will send it to you - especially big thanks to the two guys who helped make hot water for me and gave me a hat, neckwarmer and t-shirt!) I gave the mountain my gloves, my sunglasses, my visor and my picket I think. I was granted a summit that day, but I also got really lucky on the way down. It might be awhile before I climb again…. But what an epic day - my first summit of rainier, and my first (hopefully only) crevasse fall. Be safe out there folks... crevasses are really scary. I had healthy appreciation of them before, but now.... -AK

... for the weekend of July 23-25 pm me if interested. We are not super fast, although not the slowest either.... all dependent on weather as well!

Yep - the thought is to do the emmons - sounds much better. How is it in mid-july?

Thinking about doing Hood via Sunshine this weekend, but not sure of the status of the road. Anyone know how long it takes to hike the road in or where thatis at and what the conditions are like? Also, any recent beta on the route itself?

Oh yes, totally understand all of those pieces. Not thinking of it for right now - just trying to glean some more information than what I have in books - you know, from people who have climbed. Hard if you have never done it, to actually know how it is! Thanks though!

How bad is DC really? Lots of crowds, lot of people.... but for two people who have never done rainier (we have done hood, adams, middle and s. sister, helens) just curious.....

Anyone have the beta on the Hotlum-Bolum Ridge on Shasta? We were thinking of doing that this weekend. Any advice, suggestions, etc. would be welcome!

Thinking of bringing the snowboards up for our climb on Middle Sister this weekend... good idea? Any information on that?

How is Shasta in september? depending on weather of course.. but is it worth it then? i would like to try the second or third weekend.....

Even though there were so many people on the s. side, we went up early and it was empty! left all those folks sleeping at lunch counter.... great sunrise at the top of the false summit!