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needtoclimb

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Everything posted by needtoclimb

  1. My girlfriend and I are taking a 3 week roadtrip to Yellowstone and the Tetons. Is there a Wyoming equivalent to Cascadeclimbers.com? Anyone know of a good resource for Wyoming climbing? We are going to spend a week or so in Yellowstone, then hopefully climb one of the Tetons. Not sure what else to do. Also, any Wyoming locals here who can advise me on September weather there? Thanks
  2. Yesterday around 1400 I saw an ambulance in a pullout across from yellowjacket tower, and what appeared to be a Coast Guard helicopter (was all orange, too far away to see any markings) hovering around the tower for about 30 minutes. Anyone know what happened?
  3. A #4 cam works great for the flake. That is what I used to protect it. For the offwidth above, if you place a lot of gear, 2 #4 and 2 #3.5 will be plenty. Chris used the #4 low and slid it up several times as he moved up. Hope this helps.
  4. Looking for a couple more for this route on August 1,2,3. My plan is to leave seattle later afternoon on the 1st (can carpool) and camp at glacier basin. Next day hike to shurman camp, and third day summit and hike out. If you can only do two days, we can meet up at glacier basin camp morning of the second. Two caveats: 1.) Looking for people with some glacier experience. Need to be able to self rescue (prusik) out of crevasse, and confident arresting and setting up rescue. 2.) Must be reliable and commit to the climb. I have had way too many people from CC.com say they want to go, then cancel the day before, or even the day of. Nothing ruins a climb like half the party bugging out the morning of the climb. If interested, pm me. Kevin
  5. Have to work this weekend, only have tommorrow off. Well, looks like I will be going for a hike. Anyone here have july 9-10th off? would love to do Stuart N ridge.
  6. Are you up for Prusik Peak thursday?
  7. I can do it the weekend of July 21, or the following weekend. Am in good shape, have all the needed gear, and have good glacier, navigation, rope experience. A rope team of 3-4 would be real cool. Drop me a line.
  8. west ridge. It should be faster, especially if we simul-climb the easy portions. interested?
  9. If you are interested in giving it a go, pm me.
  10. I have that weekend off, and am looking to do something. Baker, Glacier, Mt Olympus, Mt Stuart (north ridge) or anything else. I have seen a whole lot of people posting generic "looking for partners for this summer." So, here is a concrete date to go climb something, give me a pm and lets go climb.
  11. Trip: Wallaby Peak-Kangaroo Ridge - West Ridge Date: 6/23/2007 Trip Report: The original plan was to go climb Kangaroo Temple. Teresa and I set out from Lynnwood at 0530, and were parked at the hairpin curve below Washington Pass a little after 0800. We started hiking up to Kangaroo pass. The entire way is still snow, with lots of water coming down. We didn't think that there would be this much snow and only had out tennis shoes on. We reached the pass and according to Becky, we were to traverse along the slabs of Wallaby Peak. I read this as climbing up the ridge aways, then traversing over. We hiked up the ridge for a bit, then realized that we were off-route. The correct way to appraoch Kangaroo Temple is to drop down the south side of Kangaroo Pass, and travere low, below all the rocks and cliffs. Being we already spent a bit of time climbing the ridge, we decided to forgo backtracking and just to scramble up to the top of Wallaby. We dropped our packs and scambered up the ridge. It was easy until the last 200 feet, when I hit a very steep snow coulor. The rock on the edge was too steep to climb, so I held onto the rock with my right left hand, and kicked in steps with my tennis shoes, and dug my right hand into the snow as well. It was a very cold 200 feet, but then I reached the bare summit. What views!! I found the summit register, and only about 20 people climb this mountain a year. After taking in the sights, I went back down, downclimbing the snow (and again freezing my hands and feet)until I got onto the rocky ridge. From there it was a quick down to our packs, where a curious mountain goat was eying them. We eyed him for a while, and he scampered off. Next time we will do Kangaroo Temple, now that we know how to get there. Kangaroo ridge from parking lot. The right-hand highest peak is Wallaby. Kangaroo Temple is beyond it and not visible. ] Kangaroo Temple from Kangaroo pass. Wallaby peak from Kangaroo Pass. The peak is actually the 2nd bump from the left, not the high looking peak on the right (that one is about 100 feet lower than Wallaby.)
  12. Trip: Mt Adams - Mazama Glacier route Date: 6/15/2007 Trip Report: I took my family up to Mt Adams on June 15-16th to do the Mazama glacier route. The group consisted of myself, Teresa (my girlfriend, brother Kirt, brother-in-law Colin, sister Alisha and father Dad. The original plan was to head up the south spur to round-the-mountain trail and cut over to the Mazama glacier route. However, while waiting for the rest of the party to arrive, Teresa and I did some exploring. We took the Bird Creek road to see where it would lead, and found out it is gated about 3 miles from the Bird Creek Meadows trail head This seemed like a shorter and more direct way to go, so we decided on this approach. On Friday, June 15th, we awoke to rain and a socked in mountain. We drove to the ranger station for an updated forecast. The forecast called for clouds and showers throughout the weekend. Taking our chances, we decided to at least go check out the trail and drove up Bird Creek road to the locked gate at 4800'. There is plenty of room off the road to park 2-3 cars. We then hiked the road in the rain for 3 miles to the Bird Creek Meadows trail head, and headed towards the climber's trail along the ridge over looking hellroaring valley. The trail is mostly snow-covered, but by keeping to the ridge crest we stayed on route. It is about a mile from the trail head to treeline. Once out of tree-line we were on snow almost the entire way. The clouds blew over and we had blue skies overhead as we traversed across the snowfields above hellroaring valley, and worked our way across the right side of lower Mazama glacier to Sunrise camp at 8300'. With so much snow and warm weather, there were streams everywhere and plenty of cold, clear water. The camp was melted out with about 6 rock-ringed camp sites and a nice stream flowing off the Mazama glacier. I could see a few open crevasses on the glacier and scoped out a route. It was a perfect cold and clear evening with not a cloud in the sky. We got a 0330 alpine start under the stars, roped up and headed up the steep right side of the glacier We stepped across a few small snow bridges on perfect hard snow. At about 9400' Teresa was gassed and we left her on a rock ridge with a sleeping bag. The sun was just rising and she would have sun all day until we got back down. We finished crossing the gentler upper half of the glacier, seeing numerous cracks in the snow, but only a couple of crevasses had opened up. We hit the ridge joining the south spur route at about 10,000', and Dad was gassed. We left him at the top of the glacier protected from the wind by rocky ridge. Alisha, Colin, Kirt and myself crossed the ridge and connected with the south spur route about a 1000 feet above lunch counter. South Spur was extremely windy and cold. It was about 0600 and hadn't warmed beyond about 30 degrees yet. About a dozen other climbers were already heading up the south spur. The snowfields were iced over and we trudged up to Pikers Peak at 11,600' and could see the true summit 600 feet higher and about 3/4 of a mile away. Here Alisha and I began to feel the effects of altitude, but forced ourselves to the top. Kirt and Colin didn't have any problems. On top, it was very windy and cold and i was feeling quit sick. I stood on top long enough for a single picture, then went down. The more I descended, the better I felt. Clouds had also moved in, and appeared to fill the glacier route we left Dad and Teresa in. We were back down to the ridge at 10,00 feet around 1000 and the snow was getting soft and clouds were moving in and out, going from a mile visibility to about 100 feet, then clear again. We gathered up Dad and I led the roped party in the fog towards Teresa, following wands we planted on the way up. The wands were invaluable as at one point all I could see was white, with the outline of the wand 200 feet in front of me. The snow was very soft at this point and I was worried about the snow bridges. We reached one of the bridges, and I tested it with my ice axe, which sunk in right up to my hand. We scrambled on the rocky ridge a bit to avoid the several softening bridges, then shot straight down to Sunrise camp, getting there about 1400 as the clouds left and bathed us in sunlight once again. After breaking camp, we headed out, only to have the clouds move in and catch us in a windy, cloud snowstorm for about 45 minutes, before blowing over. Other than the sideways blowing snow, the hike out was uneventful and we reach the car around 1800. All in all, it was a fun trip on a moderate glacier. The glacier had opened up quite a bit in the one day we were there, and I would suggest getting on this route in the next month while the upper snow bridges are still strong. We never say anyone else on this route, and had it to ourselves, compared to the estimated 40 people on the south spur. Alisha took a ton of pictures, and is sending me the CD in the mail. I will post them when I get the CD. Gear Notes: Ice axe, rope and crampons needed. Approach Notes: The Bird Creek Meadows road is supposed to open by July 4th. Until then, it is an extra 6 miles roundtrip of roadwalking, but still worthwhile. There is snow from the trailhead to the summit, so routefinding skills are a must. The approach to camp is 6.5 miles and 3500 feet of gain. We left the cars at 1000 and reached camp at 1600.
  13. I was at Marmot again today (drooling over sleeping bags) and checked the size. It is a medium.
  14. No, I didn't bother to look. I would guess it was a medium or large though.
  15. Saw this at the Marmot Mountainworks in Bellevue today. It is on the closeouts rack. Not bad for a jacket that normally runs $600. I didnt' see any defects, but didn't look real close as I have no use for such a burly jacket right now.
  16. 5.10 splitters at Trout Creek? Where is this magical place, I have never heard of it?
  17. I am looking for double ropes to use on easy alpine (low risk of falling), and to be able to use one of them on glaciers. Anyone use these? They sound awfully thin and not sure how well a prusik will work on one to ascend out of a crevasse. Would I be better off going for a 8.5 model? I like how light they would be. Here is the link: http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/ropes_dynamic.htm
  18. What research have you done? What route are you taking? There are a ton of books on Mt Adams climbing routes, and they state what gear you should bring. IT really depends on conditions and your route, but being that it is a 12,000 foot peak, I would bring up crampons just in case you hit any icy slopes.
  19. Have to work tommorrow night, so cant' make it. I have Sunday-Monday off, but already made plans for Sunday. Just looking for something to do on Monday, be it rock or alpine.
  20. Anyone up for doing either orbit or outerspace on monday, June 4th? Temps are supposed to drop to mid 70's with cloud cover. Should be a perfect day for it. Give me a shout and lets go climb. Kevin
  21. I said 4-season so I would get good mountaineering recommendations. I want to use the tent for more than just mountaineering, so it should protect against downpours as well. If I asked for just 3 season tents, I might get people stating "I saw a good one at Target the other day," or "why not just use a tarp." A sturdy 3 season will work just as well.
  22. Looking for recommendations for a light 4 season tent to use on the cascade volcanoes. Right now I have a heavy 3 person sierra designs that is about 8 years old, and looking to upgrade.
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