mike_m

I've been using my CM Pulsar as a second tool for a while--using the classic-curve pick most of the time, a recurve pick if there's really going to be ice rather than neve, and lose the head-weights. Like Sobo said, pretty versatile tool since you've got all the components. Not sure about the Bulldog in particular, have never used OP tools. The BD is a geat tool for its purpose, but not for a second tool.

For me its gotta be Chouinard--rock, big walls, ice, gear design and innovation for it all, author too

Sporthaus Schuster was (I don't know if it still exists) a huge outdoor retailer, skiing, climbing, etc, like REI used to be before they started turning into Eddie Bauer, but on a much larger scale. I went to the store in Munich in 1981, it was huge, 4 stories at least. Mostly European brands, though I recall seeing some Chouinard gear. They had some house-brand soft goods and gear too. Your axe was probably "made for" rather than "made by" Schuster. I have an axe I bought there that was made for Schuster by CAMP. Don't know about the enscription.

Got the Expedition Croc's, and been pleased with them; the Pro(?) curved mitts with double liners, warm but clunky, good for Denali & not much else; and the Quadratic one-piece undersuit, which is just about my favorite garment. Used it on Foraker last year, overnight Rainier trips, ice climbing--fits well, warm, good zippers, doesn't get too funky. Just gotta get the hang of releiving yourself thru all the layers

Shorty's are 6.5"

I have the same problem with the Zipper Screamer as well, so I just use the Shorty's. Usually carry 4, one for each belay, one for the first piece, one just in case.

I got my #6 on Friday. I don't have an extra #1 or 0, but I do have a spare #2 if anybody needs one

copied from the Mounties message board SENATE COMMITTEE REJECTS PERMANENT FEE DEMO FOR FOREST SERVICE, BLM, AND USFWS. PASSES BILL FOR NATIONAL PARKS ONLY. Grassroots Effort Moves Parks Fee Legislation In what is being called a 'remarkable victory,' opponents of the Recreation Fee Demonstration Program are today celebrating what they see as the beginning of the end of recreation fees on the National Forests and other public lands. Despite enormous pressure from the Department of Interior and the Department of Agriculture to make the Fee Demo program permanent for the National Parks, Forest Service, BLM, and US Fish and Wildlife Service, the Senate Energy & Natural Resources Committee this morning unanimously voted to pass S. 1107, the Recreational Fee Authority Act (Senator Craig Thomas, R-WY), which makes recreation fees permanent for the National Parks only. The bill will allow Fee Demo to lapse for the BLM, US Forest Service and US Fish & Wildlife Service. Fee-opponents in recent days had flooded Senate offices with faxes and phone calls, expressing their general acceptance of park fees and their adamant opposition to fees for recreation on lands managed by the US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management. Opponents of recreation user fees came together to prevent Thomas' legislation from being amended and to ensure that it would be moved out of committee as a 'parks only' bill. Gale Norton, Secretary of Interior, lobbied Senators hard in an effort to included permanent fee authority for the other three federal agencies within the Fee Demo program. “Senator Thomas and Senator Craig (R-ID), Chair of the public lands subcommittee, as well as all Senators on Committee, did an excellent job protecting their constituents ownership of these public lands.” Said Robert Funkhouser President of Western Slope NoFee Coalition. Another long time opponent of these fees, Kitty Benzar, co-founder of the WSNFC said: "The Tide has turned, and with a growing groundswell for ending this ill-conceived recreation fee program, it is becoming every more clear that we will soon see the end of fees to take a hike in the woods." The Fee Demo program in the Forest Service, BLM, and USFWS has been recognized as a failure in terms of public acceptance and financial viability. Recent administrative changes to enforcement procedures particularly within the BLM, such as increasing penalties for being on public land without a pass to $5,000, have fueled the growing Fee Revolt taking place across the nation. Contact: Robert Funkhouser, WSNFC 802-867-2298 Kitty Benzar, WSNFC 970-259-4616

In June both routes will be primarily steep snow with only a few hundred feet of ice, AI-3 max

Paul--I got mild frostbite on my fingertips (flesh-color blisters, no discoloration, no nail loss)on a Denali rescue in 2000. I'm still very susceptible to the cold, although it's been getting better since. Was on Foraker last May and just got back from Ouray--no problems. I am just very careful about not letting my hands get cold or damp. Once they get cold, they don't rewarm very fast. So I just carry lots of spare gloves--3 or 4 pair per trip--and pay more attention to staying hydrated and fueled. Works for me, anyway. The hands are better, but not back to "normal" yet.

Anybody know the status of the Kicking Horse Canyon routes (Essondales, Pretty Nuts, Riverview)? Is the parking area by the bridge open again or still a construction zone? Heading up and usually tag one of those on the way to Canmore. Any beta will be greatly appreciated.

A little clarification--Gentle Groove was one of the TR routes (there are 5 TR anchors, not counting the bolted sport route on the far right) first set at Black Ice when we started developing the "crag" as a mixed/dry-tooling area for any interested people to use without scratching up a viable sport (or trad, either) crag. The route was retro-bolted for leading by one of the main developers of the crag this summer and led by him in October. I don't think it would be possible to lead that line on gear, though a couple of the right-hand routes have some cracks that would take gear.

Found it on the moraine "trail" below the Coleman ice bouldering area. Let me know if it's yours and how to get it to you

I've got straight-shaft CFBP's (with Alaska picks) for alpine ice. Great combination. With re-curve picks they may be OK for easy WI climbs, but I've got Cobras for that. The grip appears to be large, but is sculpted enought that my fiance, with pretty small hands, prefers them to the smaller-shafted Rages. If the straight-shafts are unavailable, try the bent-shaft CFBP's. Good grip, but they still plunge into the snow pretty well. Second Ascent in Ballard has had both every now and then.

Did it June 28/29. Went straight up the Coleman from the 6000' sites, and the route-finding was pretty complicated in the dark. The traverse under the Roman Nose appeared to be much more straightforward. The righthand start to the ridge was easy and in great shape, just an easy step-over schrund at the bottom followed by a long line of steps. The ice wall was fun. We belayed no pitches, ran out about 3 ropelengths on running belays up and around the left end of the ice wall, traversing left under another barrier and up a steep snow/ice step back onto the ridge. The upper ridge was easy, steep plodding in good snow.

The route conditions page on the NPS-Rainier website has beta from a 7/5 ascent of Ptarmigan Ridge. Sounds like it's in good shape

According to the publisher's catalogue, it's due out this October.

Got my Shield @ Marmot, just luck they had my size in stock. Mountain Gear has them too. I've also had very fast and complete service from Yates directly. No sales tax either.