kurthicks

I was up there the last 4 days. 6-8" of new snow above 9000' in the past few days. old trail above 8800' is largely obscured. managed to find running water at 8700' with some searching. parking is still in short supply, but a short bit of shovel work would fix that. Road is fine, just drive slowly.

and the toilets are no more up there (no funding). take blue bags. Camping across the Easton, under the Squak, is a nice option. so is the route.

It is private property and not open for camping. Please inform those that you know who camp there.

24" picket 48" sling girth hitched onto it Knot tied in the sling at the mid-point Locking carabiner on the sling.

Found!

I think I left my Grivel Thor hammer (it's red) at JY Crag after doing some bolt replacement the other day. If anyone finds it, I'd love to get it back. Kurt

Leavenworth 6/2013 JY Crag Ragweed, 5.9** Replaced all 3 lead bolts Domestic Dome BS, 5.6 Replaced 1 bolt plus one new anchor bolt. 5.8 sport route above BS, tightened loose hangers and replaced one hanger. One new anchor bolt. Other stuff done recently by others: Fourth of July - Blue Moon, fully rebolted Jello Tower anchors Some stuff at Rattlesnake Rock

the torso is too long for me.

Wild Things Andinista Size Large Color Blue Used one day. $175 shipped. kurthicksATgmail

Are those Camp Lifts handle-less? If so, I'll take them both at $25/each.

a wet sleeping bag is a miserable sleeping bag, regardless of the fill material. keep it dry in the first place.

you can rent sleds from your flight service. don't buy one.

I'll try to get to it next week when I get back from Alaska.

Sorry to hear about the accident. This is the topo that I've drawn up over the years. The topo in Selected climbs is incorrect because it was based on a photo taken from a suboptimal angle. Kurt

No overhanging drytool caves to speak of. There are some steep mixed routes and a couple overhanging drytool climbs up at the Rap Wall below The Tooth at Snoqualmie Pass.

Larry Goldie and Scott Johnson put up Spontaneity, not Mark. Fun route though, it fits right between the South Arete and the Beckey Route in the Washington Pass progression.

Drive further up the Icicle and walk into Johnny Creek if the other ones are full.

most of the icicle crags are pretty dry. ticks run rampant. 4/17 edit: snow at the start of Outer Space. Pitch 1 looks wet. snow on the descent. approach is snow-free. Mountaineer Creek Road is still gated.

Great question John. We certainly don't want to kick the hornet's next, eh? I'll look for the old Beckey bolt on DDD next time I'm there. That one is a no-brainer; the pin situation is WAY more controversial (given the 8 pages I just read). Perhaps sink a pin if one could find the pin scar? (although I hate the idea of leaving something that will be crap in 10 years). My work list for Castle is this at the moment: Canary - remove the old bolts Midway Direct Direct - replace the two bolts. possibly put a bolt in the hole that already exists where the third bolt was(?). need to contact FA party. Saints - replace old bolt high on route, if necessary. Century - scrub and replace bolts. Saber - replace two bolts at pitch two anchor. remove other old bolts on Saber Ledge. chop the studs over by the North Ridge that are visible from trail. anyone know the history of this 'project'?

Leavenworth Fourth of July Crag April 11, 2013 w/ Forest McBrian Facetime - Replaced one lead bolt. One 3/8" bolt with Leeper hanger remains, but on easy ground. Beer and Loafing - someone replaced the missing pin with a bolt (thanks!). Gear to 2" is still recommended for this line. All of the other routes here have usable 3/8" except on Blue Moon (1/4"ers).

Well, I live kind of near there and had stuff stolen about a month back. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1100636/Gear_Stolen_March_13_2013#Post1100636

Only the finest for our crags!

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion—even your elitist, non-inclusive view of mountaineering. Everyone who wishes to venture into the mountains should be able to, even if they don't possess the requisite skills to complete their journey safely and, thus, desire the company of a certified guide. Go to the mountains and enjoy their good tidings!

Leavenworth Careno Crag April 3, 2013 NOTE: If you want good hardware on routes you climb, please donate to the ASCA. I paid for these upgrades myself. Regular Route Replaced pitch 1 anchor. Added an anchor atop pitch 3, so folks stop rapping off the pine tree. BOO Arete Replaced all four 1/4" lead bolts. We were able to enlarge the same holes, so the clipping locations are unchanged from the FA. Added a top anchor to this great pitch.

How was the ski quality?