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AmberBuxom

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Everything posted by AmberBuxom

  1. you got pictures witnesses and a gps log to prove it? i thought not. but the idea of discovery at night at a brewery sounds like wicked fun to me.
  2. ???? just wtf is a 'guilty' animal?
  3. it is an 'adaptogen'. that just sounds cool. an ultra-runner type clued me into the shiznit. the russians did high altitude adjustment tests and shit. suposed to work good. i find it acts like a mild mood elevator. but if i take it every day i get a slight allergic response.
  4. that sounds illegal or sumpin. unless you do it through a licensed guide service. you trolling for a bust?
  5. placing: parallel sides make for better placements as do rugosities over which the ends fit. two hands make the task easier but it can be done easily enough with one. removal: easy. almost too easy. inadvertent knocks with your feet as you thrash upwards guarantees you will hear the clanging as it slides down the rope. falls taken on them: no thank you. i try not to fall in squeeze chimneys (fukin pinball body trash action is not for me). but i have aided confidently on them.
  6. it dont hurt none to look at the dynafit imo. after all the scarpa denali is an AT boot too.
  7. check out the offerings from dynafit. their mlt4 might be the ticket for ya.
  8. for arthritis try fish oil capsules. start with a pretty big dose to get things going fast. that shit works for me.
  9. AmberBuxom

    am i an asshole

    you are an asshole for purely genetic reasons. though one could make a fair argument for 'nuture'.
  10. AmberBuxom

    Tips

    your legs are stronger than your arms. for you grigri users: dont be the hand. for aid climbing: step up. works for iceclimbing too. (the tip refers to people tending to match feet at the same level and climbing more slowly as a result).
  11. DAILY: multi-vitamin without added iron. glucosamine. vitamin e from vegetable oil. fish oil. caffeine. rhodiola rosea on occasion. works for me. btw listing your height weight and % body fat is stupid. so is dissing weight lifting and other supplementary forms of training.
  12. i aint ever seen a 5 piece bolt that spun. the hanger on the other hand . . . now i couldnt even count the number of loose nuts on wedge type anchors that ive come across. but whatever gets it for you.i have placed 8 different types of anchors and think the power-bolt is the best. the BEST. i have had zero problems with them. but i have had problems with rawl drives and rawl and redhead wedgetype anchors. spend a little $. drill some outa the way rock in a fucked up quarry. place some different types yourself. make up your own mind. btw. wtf is a ½’ stainless?
  13. the casing? looks like dork crap to me. it is the guts of the stuff that make it work so well. but id rather buy a decent car than the crazy mad bitchin amplifier stuff. its not like my tapes are in stereo anyways.
  14. stephenson was making cutting edge tents back when your dad was still whacking off to pictures of sophia loren.
  15. http://www.ayre.com/ but your budget wont allow for the best.
  16. you are right. the cone is aisi 12l14 steel. it is very ductile. high lead content or sumpin.
  17. no i havent tried it with bolts that have been in the rock a long time (weeks but not months or years). but aluminum generally forms a thin oxide layer and stops corroding further. really i dont have strong feelings about others choosing to use wedge type anchors. i hold myself to a different standard. i have placed a bunch of redhead wedge types and regret it now. same with rawl drives but i didnt know better at the time. 5 piece bolts have wicked high shear (it is a grade 5 bolt after all) are easy enough to place (but admittedly tend to disassemble in a bolt bag: duct tape will prevent that) have a low profile (they dont mess with carabiner gates like an extended wedge bolt can) and remove completely. i think they are the best bolt currently available. under a buck apiece at electrical supply wholesalers. especially for sport routes they are the way to go. for me. you choose your own legacy.
  18. actually it is no big deal to completely remove all parts of a 5 piece anchor. first you unscrew the bolt. then fish out the sleeve (needle nose pliers work). then rescrew the bolt into the wedge and pull it out (you might need to apply a little force. the claw of a framing hammer is more than enough). for shear and tension strengths of power-bolts (thats the trademark name for 5 piece bolts) check em out for yourself: http://www.rawl.com/58-62.pdf i figure granite is well over 6000 psi concrete density since a powder actuated anchor barely makes a dent in the stuff but goes into concrete with a couple charges. in terms of removing wedge type anchors i aint ever done it without damaging the rock to some extent (and sometimes to a large extent when it dinner plates). and in fact i often spew. but you can check out all the facts yourself.
  19. guaran-damn-teed: leashes with moving parts will fail. i dont trust em too much.
  20. your problems with the 5 piece bolt are negligible imo compared to issues with wedge type anchors 'grab' problems are usually due to shitty rock. bolt stealers would rip a hanger from a wedge type just as easily as from a 5 piece. place em higher off the ground. 'spendy'? if a few extra buck per pitch is an issue for you then dont fuckin bolt. btw that investment will pay off in spades if the route need to be maintained at some point. 'WAY stronger' bolts? shear is over 7000 lbs for 5 piece bolts. is that not enough for ya?
  21. check out the handcuffs and m9: http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/ice/iceindex.htm#4
  22. i preciate the misogyny. however . . . i will drop one name and hope you just stfu before some hardwoman breaks your jaw. catherine freer: twight was still wetting his bed while she was pulling down.
  23. AmberBuxom

    pictures

    you can resize the picture and/or scale the quality to reduce file size with a program like imageready. adobe might have a demo you can use for like free and shit.
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