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Alex_Mineev

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Posts posted by Alex_Mineev

  1. Been there yesterday. Fly and Zipper looked filled, however rock step at the last third in zipper might still be uncovered. In lovers lane chockstone looked uncovered. the rest, it seems, was also in. Snow was hard slab over unconsolidated in many places, it should improve during this week.

  2. On average upper part is 40-45 degrees. There are couple steps of 50. There were few options, I guess one could make it spicier or keep it well under 50 if wanted. Later in the season, when snow consolidates, it might get few more steep steps.

    Snow was between perfect styrofoam at times to knee deep.

  3. 12.10am wake up, coffee

    3.00am redbull, pack on, hike off

    3.05 damn ice on the trail

    4.00 hoar frost sparkles brighter than stars above, feels like in fairy tale, beautiful night!

    5.30 Tilly Jane Cabin - barking dogs inside, altimeter is wrong 300ft

    6.10 coming out of woods, first taste of winds

    6.40 first light, windy freezing, reached the rock shelter, all clothes on

    7.00 sunrise, beautiful mountain, going goes well, a bit less wind

    8.00 sun on, high winds on the upper mountain

    8.30 calibrate altimiter at 8500ft

    9.00 short rest, breakfast and crampons/harnesses on at about 9000

    9.30 exposure to Elliot, not so steep, not so windy yet, just pressing up

    10.00 10000ft, ropeup, start simulclimbing

    10.30 slow progress because of simulclimbing, excellent climbing on steep snow, windy!

    10.50 got into cadence, sorted out technical issues, but now getting tired, altemiter shows 10500, I suspect its wrong again

    11.00 windy and freezing, a bit tired but still moving good

    11.20 got used to slopes and it's cold, peeling ice off eyelids, decided to keep only one piece of pro at a time, this speeds up the progress

    11.50 last slope before the summit, blowing like hell, hypothermic, altimeter is again off 300ft - SUUNTO you made a piece of crap!

    12.00 summit - step over the edge off the route - from hell to heaven - no wind and warm on the other side!

    12.10 I think I saw 20 or so climbers following us on cooper - Oleg doesn't see any, I am clearly tripping. Gatorade is below 32 but still liquid, painful to drink. I am shivering even though it is warm.

    12.35 Ok, bailing from Sunshine descent - too windy, let's go south side.

    13.00 where the fuck is perly gates?

    13.30 where is the main summit, PG should be right under it. Everything looks steep and all the tracks are going up. Where are all the people who supposed to climb from south? I see three climbers but Oleg says these are just rocks.

    14.00 looked at all the options - all tracks are going up. only one option seems to have more tracks than the rest, we ruled it out because it seemed exposed to falling rime ice. I see climbing monkey - I see it's moving up on steep ice few hundred yards away. Too embarrassed to tell Oleg about it - I know it's in my head.

    14.30 Oleg suggests we have to get out of here, I belay him on the option with lots of tracks and rime ice - see if there is a way out.

    15.00 the option goes easy, unrope

    15.30 we are off the steep part and coming to the devils kitchen

    4.00 rest at the devils kitchen, trying to call Mara to "rescue" us off the timberline lodge (our car is on the north side)

    4.30 on the traverse of Steel Cliffs - cellphone picks up we make calls.

    5.30 sunset, beautiful

    5.40 hurricane resumes at the top of the lift

    6.30 still going down, freezing cold, 45mph gusts, I see red flashes and sparkles in my left eye (wind is blowing from my left)

    6.40 my toes feel like someone fries them with a lighter

    6.50 loosing it because of painful toes, take off crampons, Oleg is walking ahead choosing the path, I can't keep up with him, I slip on ice and fall every three minutes, still better without crampons because toes don't hurt that much

    7.00 reached the lodge, standing outside waiting for Oleg to take off crampons, people sitting behind the window, drinking booze and eating steaming hot food. Oleg can't take off his crampons - lashes are frozen. All doors on our side are closed - we can't get inside. FF...

    7.05 descending to the visitor center, I have hard time keeping upright on the frozen trenches. The final piece is 30ft down to the road over the snow bank just above the cars.

    7.10pm It's over! :) sitting on the bench in the climbers' corner, waiting for pick up. Life is so goood! :))

     

    First light of the day

    4381396746_129eb8030e.jpg

     

    Sunrise on lower Cooper Spur

    4380641553_fc8e94ffeb.jpg

     

    8500ft

    4381398362_2449b5f374.jpg

     

    Breakfast

    4380643029_0ccb745f6f.jpg

     

    Winds on the upper mountain

    4381399288_76580b4242.jpg

     

    Oleg, midway up the Cooper Spur route

    4381400012_b8d8048efb.jpg

     

    Me just below the steep part on cooper Spur

    4380644283_44dbdc784c.jpg

     

    Cooper Spur at its best

    4381401166_c66828a968.jpg

     

    Midway in a wind-protected spot

    [video:youtube]

     

    Redface

    4380645999_be5b81166e.jpg

     

    100ft below the summit

    4381402814_0bd13c89f1.jpg

     

    Looking down the Cooper Spur route from the summit

    4381403456_e3e077f767.jpg

     

    Rime ice

    4380648805_5238669316.jpg

     

    Iron man, Steel Cliffs

    4380649547_d8857af252.jpg

  4. I got 170 Atomic Chugach which might be 5cm longer than I initually planned for backcountry but hope it works :)

    Going up there tomorrow albeit weather is gonna suck.

     

    On the other hand I skied Tahoma creek up to the wonderland trail bridge three weeks ago in 185 xcountry skis and it did not feel so bad except some clumsy fight on icy crust spots on the way down.

  5. Day pack, should be way less than 15 pounds.

    Yeah, I've heard climbing boots make it gnarly...

    My biggest reason for getting into skiing is to speed up approaches, so I am willing to tolerate the inconviniences unless they grow into bone-breaking.

     

    Yes, I will play a bit downhill before getting above the steep hill at 7k. I have vague memories there is a way on climbers left of the panorama point that looks like a not-so-steep ascending traverse. I wonder if this could be the easiest ski route in both directions

  6. Hi, I just assembled my first AT setup and am burning :blush: with desire to try it out.

     

    I am blue-black downhill skier and assume this qualifies as a beginner level on non-groomed terrain.

    I am thinking going up Muir. I've been on the snowfield at least 20 times but hardly ever looked at it from skiers perspective.

    Hence the question - will a beginner be able to ski down the snowfield at least 80% of the way? :crosseye:

    There is one caveat - I will be skiing in my plastic climbing boots which I assume will make things quite challenging.

     

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