Alex_Mineev

yep

I was waiting for the weather for two months sitting on my backpack ready to go at any moment

Climb: Mt Rainier-Ingraham Direct Date of Climb: 2/12/2004 Trip Report: Climb: Mt Rainier-Ingraham Direct Date of Climb: 2/12/2004 Trip Report: Excellent weather. Excellent snow. Beautiful mountain. Started on Wednesday from Paradise, 5 hours slog with heavy packs to Muir hut. Light wind helped a lot, otherwise it would be too hot. Met RMI group of 15+ people preparing to go Ingraham the next day. Initially we planned to camp on Ingraham flats to assess route conditions, but RMI group did crevasse rescue training around flats that day and guides were pretty confident in good conditions. So we decided to stay at Muir and start an hour before them next morning... Which was not the case - I did not hear alarm and we woke late at 3.45. So we left the hut at 5 - about an hour after the crowd (5 teams). Almost full moon was bright enough - we did not use headlamps. Caught up with RMI on the flats. They stayed on the mountain for a few days (RMI winter program?) and were very strong, my guess they get just used to the altitude. Anyway, we climbed a separate line up the Ingragaham ice fall in attempt to pass the groups. While on Ingraham one big block of ice 100 meters to the right fell down. This was 10 minutes after sunrise. Other than that things were very smooth. Wind was worm. Snow was very dense all the way up. No problems with route finding. No big crevasses that we had to walk around... At about 13500 we got slow and behind the two leading RMI teams (the first one was leaded by Geo Dunn . Summited at noon, 7 hours sharp from Muir. One hour for pics and rest and 3 hours on the way down. Columbia Crest My summit shot My partner, Aaron

Just to be accurate these slopes are the Ingraham and where the route tops just above the DC. I do not think that usually they are lee, but the last few days wind was N, NW making them exactly on the lee side...

What time did you start? I guess you did not see closely but anyway: was the Cathedral Gap windslab loaded? Did you check what's underneath the crust? Experts, which route could probably be safer in these conditions (S, SE aspects windloaded): Gib Ledges or Ingraham direct? From what I know Ingraham has more options to choose from in terms of terrain but you longer remain on 30-35 degree lee slopes. Thoughts?

Last time I was at Camp Muir (mid Jan) I saw an RMI group. I passed them below Panorama in the afternoon. Weather sucked, I spent that night in a cave at 8300 and finished hike to the hut on the next morning. On the way down I met them second time, they were quite loaded and were moving slowly. Taking into account that weather was good for the next two days I think they summited. BTW, snow was perfect, and Gib Ledges route was definitely in.

http://news.independent.co.uk/uk/environment/story.jsp?story=484490

http://atmizzou.missouri.edu/jan04/glove.htm

Well, some posts about post-coital rage somewhere in the middle are funny You are right - finding the right partner is the key openning most of the doors. The problem is to find this key

thanks again! I do not care getting wet, it's part of the fun.

Thanks sobo, I've ordered some books The question is more about which routes are (or could be) in shape from the list of the known easy ones? If possible I want to avoid driving there to figure there is only water and no ice.

In two hours I can get to Yakima, so I guess I meant the radius of about 150 miles.

Hi experts, looking at all these teasing posts about WI climbing I've decided to try some WI for myself. Are there any entry-level routes that are (or might be) in shape preferably within 2 hours of driving from Seattle?

check PMs

Does anybody know any good reason to pay extra $40 for '03 model?

If they are large size I'll take them

I've got this one: http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8001&catalogId=40000008001&productId=29674906&parent_category_rn=25467138 A little bit less than I wanted but still quite good for its price. ++: very precise and accurate, good range (-800 to 30k) easy on-screen help, easy calibration, big buttons, PRICE --: time and altitude are on different screens, measures speed in ft/min, would be better if ft/hr

Has anybody been there recently? Should I expect lots of snow? I've been around Chinook pass this Saturday and there was about a foot of fresh snow

Thanks! I think I'll stop on BD Sabertooth - even before posting here I liked them more than any other option. Just wanted to make sure... REI has 20% off now... heading to REI

How do they handle rock? I've scrambled a lot of rock in my current BDs and they are still sharp.

Hi people I plan to upgrade my crampons from entry-level BD Contact Strap to something that will work better on steep (but not vertical) snow/ice. Here is the list of things I look at: 1) BD Sabertooth 2) Grivel G12 3) Petzl Charlet Rapidfix S-12 4) Camp Ice Rider Step-In Crampons (http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=5501IR) I love the pair of simple BDs I currently have and I pretty much like look and feel of Sabertooths which are also the haviest in the list. I have nothing to say about Grivel and Petzl, probably good and the lightest ones, I just need some feedback from owners if there are any. Option 4 attracts with price. Anything to say? I am going to try some moderately steep routes of rock/snow/ice. I tried my current BDs to climb out of a crevasse and it was the first time they sucked (may be I did, so I want to eliminate one variable from the equation).

What length would you recommend? I am 6.02 ft high, 165 pounds.

I already have two 13cm of old BD that they sell for $17. I was looking for a couple screws a bit longer then 13cm. What do you guys think about this one: http://www.gearexpress.biz/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=G&Product_Code=6831B

Hi, I am thinking about finding a way to save time on winter approaches using skis. I do not need any extreme speed or something, just want to be able to ski to a camp, leave them, climb, and ski down. The closest thing I see is AT bindings, but it seems like it requires AT boots. I am not sure I'll want to climb in AT boots and I do not want to bring another pair of boots. Is there any type of bindings that will accept climbing boots like Koflach Degre? Has anybody tried that? What do you guys use for the similar task?

Hi, I've never seen such cheap ice screws before. What's wrong with them? Has anybody tried? http://www.rei.com/online/store/ProductDisplay?storeId=8000&catalogId=40000008000&productId=47591401&parent_category_rn=4500716