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Posts posted by skyclimb

  1. Hey Ian,

    I don't have a lot of experience with rime, but I have climbed on it when it would support body weight, like stemming between feathers, and obviously this is the most positive.

    Most of the time it won't support shit. The best method I have found in this case is to punch through the outer layer into the sugar under the rime, push my tools in horizontally grabbing the tool by the head, and rotate the shaft downward using my wrist. Then it is a manteling motion to make vertical gain. This obviously becomes difficult when steeper then 80 degrees, and can be off balance, so serious trenching may be required.

    For gear, not much works more than psychologically, but you can chop threads, scratch down to the rock if the rime isn't thick, or use screws in the few spots this may form. Creativity, and hard thickheaded work seem to be your best friend on this kind of climbing.

    These same techniques also work for flutings. Good luck with round 2 on your climb!

  2. Hey, Its been a while good to see you traveling! There is a free public climbing wall on the river in downtown seoul, with easy access via one of the city rail lines. It has been a while since I was there, so can't comment on its exact location, but it was good for a outdoor climbing wall.

    I know you probably don't have time, but a hour or two from the city is a lot of really good limestone in and around Wan Ju

    Some of the cleanest granite I have ever climbed on is in Sorak San national park, with a few hour approaches through monestaries in the mountains up to the 3-5 pitch white granite spires...mythical.

    Hope this helps, have a great trip!

  3. There is granite in that area, but you will be taking out near the town of Riggins, and the real quality climbing there is limestone...It is excellent. The granite in that area is grainy/oatmeally as shit...IMHO...I lived there for the last 4 years and climbed a lot of the granite from Boise all the way up the crest to north of Mccall and Riggins. The Granite on the river is also pretty chossy, and wasn't even worth the climbing shoes I brought for bouldering.

    Obviously everyone has they're own opinion, many people rave about the "Secret" needles area, but I thought that place was sucky...probably a reason it is "secret".

    You could also go a bit early and hit the Sawtooths on the way to do the car shuttle.

    Have a great trip that river is amazing.

  4. Nice work. I used to work with a guy at Entreprise who got the FFA of this route. He said the first few pitches were scary as all hell, but the upper pitches were all worth it. Most people rap into the hand crack and send from there... good on ya for the adventure, smith is full of them.

  5. I had the opportunity to look this book over recently, and it is a pretty amazing piece of work. It is very useful for rehabing injuries, or strenthening specific muscles for climbing, along with useful tricks of the trade.

    One thing you should add in the next edition Layton, is the management of the "Bivy Kit", and keeping sleeping pills seperated from pain killers....LOL

  6. Trip: Baron Spire - North Buttress/North Ridge (The Destroying Angel)


    Date: 9/10/2009


    Trip Report:

    Layton, Brit and I went into Baron Spire for the North Buttress to North Ridge. Billed as "comparable to the becky-chouinard in length and setting but substancially harder." You go find out, but be sure to wear your visors and super fancy wrist bands if you are gonna pull this one off. Layton, Brit and I aren't cool enough to own such items, and I hope to god we never are!

    Also be weary if you see Brit around, cause she is the cuttroat slayer....the most essential component of the trip, besides our visors which as I have already said...we aren't cool enough to own.





    Gear Notes:

    doubles 00 tcu-#3, 1 #4, 2 #5, 1 #6


    Approach Notes:

    Baron Lakes, head through the v-notch on the ridge to drop into the cirque at the base of the north face

  7. Trip: Warbonnet - Southwest Rib


    Date: 9/7/2009


    Trip Report:

    Another Great trip into the tooths. We went in Via Redfish, and made quick time getting back into Goat Creek Drainage, with light rain coming from the west. A spectacular night of camping at the feather lakes led to a leisurely sleep and a 7:00 coffee wake up.

    Finding the base of the route is rather tricky, but basically you traverse the lowest point facing goat creek drainage and start on this rib.

    The route is adventurous to be sure. The rock and gear is fairly solid, but many of the pitches are quite awkard and require serious route finding with a few blind committing traverses into the unknown. That being said if you are hiking all the way back in there this is an option to extend the regular route by about 1000 feet of climbing. Pitch 5 is a 200 foot 5.8 squeeze chimney, so pack accordingly.











    Gear Notes:

    Gear to #4, nuts not very useful, fishing pole


    Approach Notes:

    Redfish-Alpine lake-3rd swithcback to baron lakes-sidehill west to col-up to next col- into goat creek drainage

  8. Hey Everyone, i am looking for partners in or around Mccall, Idaho. I will be here for the next 4 months, have rope, rack and lead 5.10 sport and trad.

    There are bountiful projects here in the alpine, or lots of sport climbing....whatever is clever, just want to climb!

  9. That was us picked up by TAT in the tordrillo's....pretty intense, and props to paul for making the pick up. The ash up there is a nightmare, but the skiing and climbing is world class

  10. We did the Emmons in spring, 2003 in a day. It was our first time on rainier. We left at 11:00p.m., got lost for an hour or so. Brewed up at Sherman as the sun rose....Amazing...and then continued up to the summit. We were back at sherman by about 1 p.m., and then back at the base by about 4-5p.m.

    Tried Gib. Ledges in jan/feb 2004 in a day..made it to 12,500 when storm came in. Descended ingrahm headwall in whiteout...interesting...lots of postholing.

    Rainier is very easily doable in a day with proper fitness, not minding suffering, brewing up occasionally/carrying lots of water, and going light.

    We were new to the whole mountaineering thing, and didn't fully know how to really cut weight. Doing rainier in a day is fine if you don't mind walking for 12 hours.

    That said, partying at camp Muir on 2 day ascents is some of the best camping ever. International feel close to home.

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