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kakeandjelly

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Posts posted by kakeandjelly

    MSR Lightnings

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    I am looking for a set of shoes for both me and my wife, mine would be both for climbing and back country "walking", and hers mostly just he walking part... I was planning on getting two sets of lightnings, but thought I had better ask around as $500 is a lot of cash for shoes... Any thoughts?

     

    Thanks

    Lets make Rainier more climber friendly.

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    Mike,

     

    As I said earlier Skiers (and snowshoers) are in the same boat as climbers, I have been to the park on ski trips myself and had the same issue. As far as sledders, hikers, ect. I would invite them to join the discussion, but I don't expect that they care as much. How many sledders start at 6:00 am?

     

    I also know that if Rainier were to suspend road maintnence for the winter, winter ascents of Rainier would be few and far between due to the extended aproach, so I fully apreciate the value of the work that the park is currently doing.

     

    I am not sure that 24 hour access is even necessary, but, as I said before, maybe opening the gate reliably at 5:00 or 6:00 am. I think that would work for the vast majority of climbs. Then, in the winter climbers could go to Paradise and self register early on the morning, similar to hood.

     

    The bigger problem with registration comes in the summer, when registration must be done at the park during buisness hours, and when early starts are even more important.

     

    Not that it matters, but Sherman pass is at 5575ft, and still open, not shure if it stays open year round or not, and it is east so likely gets much less snow...

     

    I am not trying to pick a fight with the park service, or slander the rangers in any way, I think that all climbers with their head on straight apperciate you guys. What I do see is a common frustration among many climbers, including myself, and think it is worth discussing.

     

    Do you have any thoughts as to how we might eliminate this frustration?

    Lets make Rainier more climber friendly.

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    First of all, I think that Rainier does a GREAT job of keeping the park. I have met a number of the rangers, and found all of them to be friendly and helpfull. A number of them have gone above and beyond on a number of occasions, and I do appreciate that. It is not like this is a bitch session on Rainier.

     

    Fact is, however that some of the activities that Rainier is exclusively well suited for, are made dificult by current operating procedures. I would like to open a dialog about changing some of those procedures.

     

    As far as liability with regards to someone launching their SUV off a cliff on icy roads, that is Darwin at work. I lived most of my life in Alaska, and a closed road was one that there was too much snow to get past, rarely was there a gate to stop you. If the US government spent less time trying to protect idiots from themselves, maybe some of these morons would learn some personal responsibility, and we wouldn't have to worry about the park getting sued.

     

    No, I think back country skiers (aparently the majority of winter park users) have the same issue as climbers. Maybe they to should pipe in.

     

    Many states(I'm sure that it happens in Washington) do road maintnance at night. maybe the park could shift the schedule so that they could open the gate consistantly at 5:00 am. I should think that would work.

    Lets make Rainier more climber friendly.

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    I have read many posts that complain about the gate hours. I have been forced to start climbs late on many ocasions due to late gate openings, and I have had problems getting reistered for a climb due to hours held by park officials. For me it is extremely frustrating that it is so hard to get on the mountain while following all of the parks rules due to the limited winter access.

     

    I would pose two changes.

     

    1: 24 hour park access for climbers to camp Muir. This may be a "good luck getting up the road" type access, and they may need to require a climbing permit and registration to get through, or something, but having to wait for the gate to open makes for way to late of starts

     

    2: Rigistration for climbing somewhere other than the Museum. As a 9-5er, It is nearly impossible for me to get down to the park on Friday (or Thursday) night to register for a Saturday climb. This means that I will have to go down Saturday Morning, wait till 9:00am when the Museum opens, register, get to Paradise at 10:00, hit the trail at 10:30, not get to Muir till 3:00pm...

     

    It seems to me that these are not terribly difficult things to change, and If I am paying my $30.00 per year, I want it to work for me.

     

    I talked to a ranger, and she suggested emailing issues to the park and these things are read and considered, maybe if we all send in a note, we can work something out.

     

    Here is a link to the page: http://www.nps.gov/mora/pphtml/contact.html

    New year on success...

    in Mount Rainier NP

    Posted

    We are planning three and 1/2 days for the climb...

     

    Thoughts

    1: thinking about descending the Ingram direct

    2: Day 1 maybe to Pyramid creek cg

    Day 2 to 8200 camp

    Day 3 to summit, and stay there, or descend to ingram flat.

    Day 4 to Paradise and my wife with warm car...

    3: I there a high camp on success that is higher than the 8200 high camp?

     

    any thoughs are apreciated

     

    thanks in advance

    crevasse rescue practice

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    There is a nice cornice that forms just a little below Panorama point and east of the main route. It has a nice runout at the bottom so any falls would not hurt to bad, and the top is plenty big and flat, good for setting anchors, and setting up Z rigs.

     

    Good Luck

    412356-cornice.thumb.JPG.20023b2367d7d480559e760ba4d9851a.JPG

    Ice on the shades

    in The Gear Critic

    Posted

    About a week ago, I was coming down through the purley gates on Hood marching straight into 1 helluva head wind, with horizontal snow and ice making a pleasent little cozy home right on the face of my Julbos... Well, it was about then that I remember when I was going up, I saw a guy coming down with these little round goggles, each eye was a seperate goggle, and they were clear and clean. being that the wind was at my back then, I didn't notice how much of the snow/ice was coming down on the way up, so that may have had something to do with it, but I would have given my left pinkie nail clipping to be able to see droping down that steep section... Any thought or ideas on better glasses, or are goggles the way to go? what about "mini" goggles? cool.gif

     

    Thanks

    Peter Cooley card/fund?

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    I had a long talk with my wife last night, as I am planning that route this weekend. I can't imagine leaving her behind if it were me, let alone leaving three kids. any way, I am definately there with any support that I can lend to a fellow climbers family.

     

    I don't know why, but this one really hit home...

    Kayak site

    in Climber's Board

    Posted

    erik said:

    kakeandjelly said:

    You guys are truely worthless.

     

    i gave you the link?? whats up with that????

     

    some of my best friends are stellar boaters, i have gone plenty of times......i think it is toooooo dangerous.......

     

    have fun!!!

     

     

    opps. missed that, sorry

     

    Thanks

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