Jump to content

jefffski

Members
  • Posts

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by jefffski

  1. sometime-gorbie? c'mon mur, you're a charter member!
  2. i think some FA's give their routes offensive names to piss off people who are likely to be offended. I guess it works. Also i have never come across a name that was hateful. colourful--yes, offensive--yes, gross--absolutely, but not hateful. Can anyone come up with any names that could be considered hateful? Something like "kill the jews" or "hang the gays" would fit the bill. There are laws against that here in the GWN (great white north). Since we're on the topic of offensive names what about sports teams--the cleveland indians, atlanta braves etc. How would you feel about a team named the Anytown Protestants? or the Maincity Caucasians? For those who feel compelled to blather on about this, i wish you'd take some of that misguided energy and channel it (no pun intended), somewhere useful, like gun control or a crisis hotline. As for myself, a gorbie, (albeit an old one) i am offended by the squamish route "teenage girls won't blow gorbies", but as the route is beyond me i don't think i have a say. otherwise i still think it is important to preserve the original names, but sometimes it may be better to bury the full name in the back of the guidebook. As a sidenote to the use of the N word (the real one this time), you may be interested in this article. The name will be preserved. http://www.townshipsheritage.com/Eng/Archives/News/niggerrock.1.eng.html.
  3. I like the original names but sometimes it's better if the whole name, if perhaps innapropriate, be printed in the back of the guidebook. It sure is NIGGARDLY of the authors to keep the name out entirely.
  4. the gift was a nice token. karma restored to all? methinks so.
  5. it is no longer voluntary. http://www.for.gov.bc.ca/pScripts/Protect/WildfireNews/index.asp?Page=DisplayArticle&ID=511
  6. donno what route you were on but i thought the rock was stellar on the s face
  7. ok, i'll try again birds of prey, squamish- 10b pitch and out of curiousity, why wouldn't moonshine dihedral be a handcrack? that's how i flailed up it.
  8. no, the young woman who made the comments was referring to her own behaviour when she was an teen. she explained that teens in squamish feel bored and according to her, get into all kinds of trouble as a result. i commend the citizens of squamish for trying to find solutions that plague all communities--ie. did you go to the fireworks in vancouver?
  9. that is such good news. the meanie chopped bolts about 3 times, even after cacbc had reached agreement with squamish. hope the issues on lower malamute, alexis and hot cherry are resolved soon too.
  10. yeah, we climbed it! 3 days up and back from rainey knob. the bravo was a bitch. ended up on rim ridge traverse, 16 hours to camp above bravo col. one stuck rope (5.7'ish in rock shoes to retrieve), hit by rock (bruised arm, thrown from stance, anchor held, phew), no crevasse falls. gorgeous weather.
  11. i wish there was some signage to let people know. it's so easy to go to a new area and break the unwritten code. there is one very mean resident there who has been uncooperative (chopping bolts etc). i can't wonder if it's him. clearly you were not deserving of this.
  12. sorry about your lost gear. in reference to burgers and fries however, the climbers access cttee spent a long time in negotiations with squamish council and the residents keeping that area open. they agreed to limit climbing there to mornings and afternoons. it works; the neighbours are happy. so please don't climb there in the evenings and try not to make lots of noise, etc. anywhere else in the bluffs is fine. i think this is mentioned in the guidebook.
  13. chamonix is all grown up. there is no free camping except for the aiguille de midi glacier, which is illelegal but if yours isn't the only tent do it anyway. great place to acclimatize. as for partners--easy. go to the maison de guides 3rd floor. info, partner books, etc. have fun
  14. thank you murray. always good to read your posts here. wherever you go, tourists are always targets. i wonder if the campground mgr would store stuff for a small fee. worth asking?
  15. Re the chimney--if i had looked up before i got in i would have seen that i needed to be facing the overhanging wall with my back to the wall leaning out. all it would have taken was to step up into the chimney with my left foot, and let my left hip lead in to get in the proper way. turning around so i could lean back and thrutch took sooo much effort. my gear on my rack kept getting in the way too.
  16. split pillar! i need a strong second to lead the sword. any takers?
  17. "DUDE I RERACK AFTER EVERY ROUTE WHEN I REACH THE TOP." usually. we were tired and the hour was late. we wanted off. at camp we wanted food and sleep. in the morning we wanted to get to the car. we re-racked as we drove but as we had combined racks, the driver did not have a chance to examine his until today.
  18. just found out that we didn't drop a cam--it was a granola bar that dropped out of his pocket! took a few days to figure it out what it was as all he saw was something go whizzing down!
  19. On saturday 3 of us hiked up to inspiration lake via colchuk. We got a late start because we had to wait for the park service to open to get our wilderness passes. We finally got going at 10am. the walk in the forest was pleasant despite the heat. At the fork leading to asgard pass there was a mess of people standing around and i did not notice the sign--i ended up walking to Stuart lake --oops. By the time i got to the asgard pass section of the trail at the far end of colchuck lake, the sun was blazing down and i spent more than 2 hours on that steep trail. I got to camp 2 hours after my mates, quite exhausted.the book says 5 hours-i took 8!. Sunday morning we were off before 6 am and we were off on the first pitch by 7:30. WE were climbing on 2 8 mil half ropes and carried one pack for the three of us. The first pitch went well-some easy chimney moves to a nice ledge. The second pitch is 4th class but we pitched it anyways. The 3rd pitch went well too but the 4th is a long one that ends below a big chockstone. The leader of that pitch, an experienced climber but a recent immigrant did not quite get the concept of 'chockstone' and it took him 3 pitches to finally get there. Now it was my turn--i didn't think i would fit through the slot in the roof so i climbed around the chockstone, a beautifully exposed 5.8 move or so. another 20m up lay the CHIMNEY. A hard handcrack led up to it, but i spent an agonizing 30 minutes figuring out the move into that handcrack. finally figured it out but knew that my partners would have difficulty on it. then came that chimney. i moved into it, but to late realized that i was facing the wrong way. I spent 10 minutes just turning around. I grunted and thrutched my way up to the pin, clipped it and then grabbed the old stiff sling that was hanging down, turned around again and stepped out onto the face. exhausting work. i guess i need some chimney work. I belayed them up, but had to haul the pack through the chimney. my tibloc and a pulley really helped, as i hauled as i belayed. All this took time and we still had one big 5.9+ pitch to go. We also left one stuck cam behiind that walked deep into a crack and dropped another one in the chimney--it came off the second's harness as he ground his back against the chimney wall. The last pitch, 45 metres long, looked beautiful. it started with some nice jamming and stemming, then past a little roof, exposed and strenous. i had a nice rest after that move and noticed that i was running low on gear and draws, so i ran out the next 10 metres. That's when i ran into trouble. Suddenly the crack got a little thin and steep, and i was tiring. the little crack would take only a small cam, and all i had left in the small sizes were some zero cams. i tried twice to place them but both fell out as i moved past. i caught one on my foot, but the second slid down the rope, leaving me with a huge fall potential and one draw left. i had no choice but to move up higher to find a bigger placement. On pumped out arms i moved up and threw a big cam into a hole. would it hold? i was falling apart mentally, and tensing up badly. i needed a rest. cautiously i weighted the cam and then put all my weight on it. i'm still here. i made some new draws with gear and slings i was carrying, added a nut beside the cam, and took a long rest. but i was done. then next moves were a layback to a good rest but there was no way i could do them, even after my forearms cooled down. i reached up high, placed another big piece higher up, moved to it and hung on the rope again. I repeated that 2 more times and finally bellyflopped on to the summit ledge. i made it but barely. My partners took even longer than i did, and again i had to haul the pack up the last 15 metres. We were all on top by 6pm! We grabbed some summit shots, rapped down the north face, and hiked back to camp. As we had not planned for 2 nights out we ate what little food we had left and sacked out. After an early rise with a measly breakfast, we boogied out in the cool morning and were back at the car in under 4 hours . i even had a dip in colchuk lake. The south face is a beautiful climb on awesome rock, but perhaps it was a tad on the tough side for our group. Thanks for reading.
  20. i suggest climbers take the last post advisedly. the first two pitches on the dihedral of diedre have some very polished sections with small fingers (old piton scars). 5.8 moves for sure. st vitus may feel like 5.8 for those with lots of off width experience, but i think the 5.9 rating is accurate. lots of new climbers on these routes. let's not sandbag them needlessly. pitch em out, enjoy the view!
  21. we used the nw ridge for descent--3 raps. aussie c is full of avy debris.
×
×
  • Create New...