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jefffski

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Everything posted by jefffski

  1. i'm off work--yahoo. any route is a good route but preferably longer and or 10a-c. blazing saddles anyone? i've gotta car, rack and rope.
  2. who would like to join me tomorrow late afternoon? i can be in squish by 4:30 i have rack and rope jeff
  3. for the record peter croft is not from squeemish. he's from ladysmith on vancouver island.
  4. Vancouver boy looking for partner for most or all of march 19-28. i lead trad to mid 10's and sport maybe to 11. i can drive or fly to vegas, camp or motel. it's all good jeff
  5. they had a problem with their skins but quickly pulled them off the market and reformulated the glue. i admire that. i can think of no other products that have not been absolutely outstanding. and their customer service is second to none. the targa binding competely changed the binding market. before them all others were aluminum make-a-breaks or garage made peices of junk. i am surprised that the skis were only 2 years in the making but my guess is that parker had some plans up his sleeves for years while at tua and jumped at the chance when g3 called--or maybe he called them. either way they are prob hot!
  6. there are now three of us. 2 from van 1 from seetle. i need a ride back to vancouver on sunday. anybody? i guess there's always a bus
  7. perhaps it is pop psychology but there is at least some truth, based on empirical research, to what they reported re the risk gene, dopamine etc. it's still all theory but it does shed some light.
  8. head on fist sized rock, dead centre on the helmet as i was rapping off mt waddington. thank you helmet
  9. i love this quote "Maddi suggests that well-adjusted people are "good at turning everyday experience into something interesting. My guess is that the safecracker or the mountain climber can't do that as well. They have to do something exciting to get a sense of vitality. It's the only way they have of getting away from the sense that life sucks." Larsen is even blunter: "I think risk takers are a little sociopathic."" overall a good read
  10. i broke my ankle last year skiing. spent 2 months doing nothing, 'cept walking on crutches. with rehab i was back on my feet but tried too hard to do everything i had been doing before the accident except skiing. short story--i kept reinjuring my ankle. long story--more rehab. advice? take it easy. wait. the rock aint going nowhere. when the cast is off try walking, swimming, biking, leg weights and running. take up yoga and learn to crochet, play chess, spend more time with your gf etc. the rock will be there and your head will know what to do. you're an athlete. injuries are part of the game get used to it. good luck
  11. thx. i'll bring my thong. pink ok?
  12. just peeked at the weather forecasts. is mid 50's too cold? if it's sunny i'm thinking borderline. if there's wind--maybe too cold. opinions please
  13. going to smith for remembrance day long weekend. looking fer a partner. leaving from vancouver area on wed nov 10 afternoon. pm if interested
  14. I thought the first pitch was hairy scary but the hand traverse (5.7) was great. fun exposure and good moves. each to his own i guess
  15. skyridge- smith hairpin-papoose snake-apron prussik s face sw early winter spire
  16. not the pnw but wth, try these: huarez, huarscaran, aconcogua, chamonix, etrier, huayna potosi,
  17. deidre=dee ay dr. french for dihedral. the final e is swallowed. couloir--cool whar haute=oat as in oat muffins. also french. the h is silent. i doubt any of the spellings for the first nations names reflect the original pronounciation. look at shawangunks. the dutch couldn't get their tongues around shongum (or something like that) so they adjusted the spelling. when it comes to places like cheam, slesse, stawamus, cheakamus who knows? a local person person might help. french is way easier than coast salish dialects je vous sohaite
  18. did a bit of newbie aiding in squish. more fun than i thought. good rainy day activity.
  19. welll done. i think you made wise and valiant choices. there is no point being brave just for the sake of bravado and dying in the process.
  20. i have often taken beginners on routes up the apron in squish. they always have a great time.
  21. to be honest, it might be a 5.9. but since i have very little experience with thrutch chimneys i prolly did it the hard way, just as i did when i was learning to climb cracks. i came into the chimney left arm in, but felt that i was leaning into the wall. i just could not move. maybe it's my fat ass. i spent a fair bit of time turning around. i think the noises i made must have been amusing. perhaps the previous day's effort had something to do with my exhaustion. i missed the turn to the lake off the main trail. ended up walking about 1.5 hours extra and did the steep bit in the heat of the day. re the rating--it is interesting tonote that on sharma's 15a route there is no 15a move. it was 'given' the rating because of the sustained climbing at 14c/d. hence this route might desreve it's 10a. but it felt like 11a. just how hard do chimneys get? my .025 ($can)
  22. that chimney was the most grueling thing i ever climbed. the last pitch was hard cuz i was sooo tired. amazing route
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