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jefffski

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Everything posted by jefffski

  1. funny how many outdoor stores are now on the broadway corridor near mec (18, incl. 3 bike shops, at last count)--admittedly few have technical climbing gear but i think business begats business.
  2. jefffski

    J-TREE

    please email or pm me
  3. i am interested. will you ski or hike?
  4. i'm in vancouver but can travel. looking for a partner for snow, ice or even climbing if its warm enough. who's got a day or two?
  5. methinks you added a moon too. lovely shots
  6. glad he is ok. although he did not hit his head, wearing a helmet would not have made a difference here, it was pretty close. i also noticed the belayer--is she trying to take up the slack? kind of hard with her hand facing up that way. if she is not taking up slack it sure takes her a long time to lock off the belay. let's be careful out there
  7. i was thinking about coming down to smith rock next weekend. the forecast calls for temps in the mid 50's. seems a bit cool to me. what do you think?
  8. more here including names http://www.gripped.com/forum/toast.asp?sub=show&action=posts&fid=8&tid=12355
  9. i was in a group of 3 this past weekend. We left town Friday at 8:15 and were in the water by 11am. The biking was uneventful although a bit harder for me as i was on a road bike with 35c tires. we crossed the river on an inflatable raft. Our cord was 150 feet long, which we used to pull it back for each of us to get across. we forgot the paddle--oops, but used a long stick as a paddle. no prob. The hike to base camp took another four hours--steep! the final bushwack down to the valley was brutal. i am supremely grateful to the person who flagged the route. awesome job. i do not believe we could ever have found our way through the cliffs without this flagging. summit day was quite long as the snow below the hourglass had melted. in the hourglass itself we had to climb in the moat between the snow and rock. a little difficult but doable. thereafter there was snow until the summit pitch. the rock to the summit was dry and easily simul-climbed. all in all a great trip. very tough but the fine weather, outstanding views and good company made it worthwhile. click on pictures for bigger version and captions
  10. i've been trolled. dang. but at least the lm is alive.
  11. afaik, they own the access to the crag, not the crag itself.
  12. this is terrible and destructive. perhaps the action was taken because of last years rescue/accident but i think it may have been exacerbated by people continuing to climb there. not to diss the casbc who tried valiantly to work with the CN, but i think given the intransigence of CN we may have taken some stronger action to communicate our frustration. now may be the time to do more than speak out and write letters. ideas? suggestions? nothing violent or destructive please. i think that we need to show that we are an important group with a legitimate right to pursue our activity. the act of forever ruining one of canada's premier crags needs to be addressed loudly.
  13. no i'm not exaggerating. the rope was in the gate. and i'm not whining nor did i whine. i observed the situation and commented to the guy. yes a rope can slide even if it is stuck in the gate. try it. i know that we all screw up. combinations of events create accidents. acknowledgment of our errors and weaknesses and a willingness to discuss and analyse them make us safer climbers. so i am thankful that he apologized but am not impressed with his lack of desire to fully disclose with me. from my point of view this thread is closed. should anyone want to discuss the matter further feel free to contact me personally through this site. thank you all for your comments
  14. this is a very good question. i never noticed any slack acculmulating. so if the rope was pinched in the gate of this non-locked biner could the rope still slide? if not then maybe the rope jumped out just as i approached the anchor. the crux was a fair ways below. my original question still sits--what would your reaction have been if it was you who had set the anchor? i think one person has replied that a simple sorry was enough. any others?
  15. close but it was murrin. i would have been suspect if that was their limit but they said they wanted to have an easy day and teach the 3rd person how to lead.
  16. we did talk a bit before we went out and without drilling them, but just through the normal kind of conversation about their climbing experiences i did get the impression that they were very experienced. i'm not sure of the relevancy of this question--surely not locking the carabiner would have been a mistake. i doubt that he put the rope in the biner's gate. i assume that the gate opened and the rope ened up in the gate.
  17. the biner was not locked--the rope was in the gate. yes the biners were opposite and opposed, but the second biner was a non-locker--that was my choice when i set up the anchor initially.
  18. "Did the guy seem to know that he was careless? Or was he shocked that this happened? " no, he was quite nonchalant.
  19. I joined a team of 3 climbers yesterday in squamish. They seemed to be a competent bunch but a scary incident has left me scratching my head. I climbed an easy 5.9 trad route and set up an anchor with a directional because the bolt anchors were a bit off to the side. one of the people i was climbing with cleaned the route and reset the anchor so i could tr 5.11 that was directly below the anchor. he then lowered to the ground and i tied in. well the 5.11 was tough and i hung on the rope a few times at the crux til i finally figured out the move and finished the climb. when i got to the top i was horrified to see the rope stuck in the gate of the locker. i had been held by a single non-locking biner! When i returned to the ground i calmly and gently mentioned the state of the anchor. His response, and i quote " oh, sorry about that". not a word more. i left shortly afterward. What would have been your response if it was you that set the anchor (not that anybody here would ever do that of course )?
  20. i have several thought on this isssue. 1. the complaint raises its stupid head about once a year and then goes away. responding to it might fan the flames 2. as mentioned already, the costs are minimal and provide valuable training to military personnel 3. there are many, many recues at sea to commercial and non-commercial craft. there is no cost to those who are rescued, why should mountaineers be any different? 4. instituting a charge could result ina loved one or those in need of rescue waiting until a rescue is too late because they are afraid of the costs. The sars here in canada make this point over and over again. Waiting to make that call kills. 5. once we open this can of worms we need to analyse every rescue situation, whether it be in the city, wilderness or at sea and decide whether or not the people in need of rescue contributed to their situation. were they engaging in 'risky behaviour' such as rock climbing, ice fishing, driving drunk, eating badly, smoking, wearing a seatbelt, sailing, etc? 6. deciding which activities are risky and which are not is nigh near impossible. 7what would the world be like if everest had never been climbed? what if nobody had ever been to the poles or humans had never been to the moon? We, as a society, cherish and encourage risk taking endeavours. We live vicariously through the lives of those who push the boundaries in adventure, science, art and even commerce. we all gain a sense of purpose and possibilty in our own lives by knowing that the impossible is possible. Charging people for rescue is like saying that we do not honour what you do and will punish you if you need help. This is the wrong message. We need to encourage people to get out of their backyards and explore their limits, seek solace and friendship in nature and wild places, re-energize through selfish and perhaps risky activities and perhaps use that energy to revitalize their own and others lives. 'nuff said. my recommendationis to ignore the ignoramusses. the issue will go away. those in charge have no interest in persuing it. "a small step for man, a giant step for mankind"
  21. http://www.wsdot.wa.gov/traffic/default.aspx?cam=1109
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