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pazzo

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Everything posted by pazzo

  1. Chris, The grades seem fine. I'll let you know how the rest of the route is when we get back on it (hopefully earlier than 4:00 next time).
  2. Jumped on it yesterday! Having started late in the afternoon, we rapped from the top of the third (.11-) pitch. It will need quite a few more ascents before most of the loose stuff comes off. We were kicking off LOTS of crap and I broke a foothold on one of the pitches which sent me flying Nonetheless the climbing was good (from what we did) and I look forward to completing the full route soon. Good job to the team who put this together. Although I must ask, who drilled the bolts on the first three pitches (including anchors)? **Bring your helmet
  3. Pic of route: http://gumbiesoncrack.blogspot.com/2010/07/route-topo-crude-picture.html
  4. "Stupid Barley Bolts" LOL. I guess they're trying to mask the fact that Robin was part of the FA team on The Feather - he's going under the alias "Rubin"
  5. Great TR!! I'm super stoked to go to the Bugs next summer
  6. what about long overhanging TRAD routes????? lots of those in squamish... in fact, every other trad route in squamish is at least 70-80º overhung!!
  7. thx Trogdor... i just wish they didn't cost so much. i'm using it for long Squamish climbs. my 70m rope is fine, only getting down is sometimes a little iffy. and simul-rapping to stretch the rope isn't always feasible.
  8. does anybody know where i can get an 80m rope in the greater Seattle/ Vancouver (BC) area?? the smaller the better (single rope use). i've seen the Beal Joker 9.1mm online, but can't seem to locate any dealers around this area? i'd prefer 9.4mm if i could choose, but i don't think i have the option in this case. longer than 80m is fine too if that's all that's available. thx
  9. just wondering what everybody's using w/ regards to home security systems (ADT, Brinks, Voxcom etc...) it's time i got one for the house, and have never really researched it. i used to sell ADT systems like 8 yrs ago or something, but don't know how they stack up nowadays. price isn't a huge deal, and i would like something that's good. not those cheap ass things which only monitor 2 doors. i want doors, rooms, motion, panic, 911, and everything else one would want to protect their home and their belongings. thanks *i forgot to mention, i live in Vancouver BC, so i'm not sure if the US systems correspond?*
  10. makes me wanna solo Freeway now...
  11. oops did i say out of your reach... i was looking for a better word for, height
  12. interesting reply and how would you know about Battered Balls, isn't it a bit out of your reach? *edit* - that's rite, Battered Balls is right beside the trail, so everybody in the world who's climbed at the Bluffs knows it has hard starts...
  13. kinda like White Rabbit, Easter Island, Jabberwocky, Elephantiasis, etc...
  14. Tim, it's good to see the season is starting for you over there... too bad for us, it's ending here! oh well isn't there an abundance of cracks in switzerland, which would be not only cheaper, but closer than coming here? have you climbed on swiss granite, and what's the difference?? good point rumr, double up on a red, gold, and blue camalot, and you're good from bottom to top!! cheers
  15. i don't know the two people climbing the Pillar. i only know that it was their first time up there, and it took the guy over 45 mins to lead it... so we bailed and climbed Survival Enhancement on the Papoose instead. another excellent route w/ a superb 2nd pitch. the pic is quite foreshortened. i labeled the Pillar as per my way to climb it. i am in no way suggesting you run it out, unless you're comfortable taking big falls! the 'no hands rest' isn't a big ledge, but rather a small little 1/4" edge which you can happen to nicely stem off of and rest, maybe using one hand for balance. it's very easy liebacking up to the edge, and is only about 12 ft above the belay. that's where i start to hand jam until where labelled. then i find the jams too rattly w/ the runout so i quickly lieback up to that huge jug (where the climber is). then it's smooth sailing to the top. let me know if you can't read the text in the pic! shot of Perry's Lieback w/ bolts circled and another looking back at my friend seconding Perry's Lieback. w/ Apron Strings, The Flake & Merci Me far below.
  16. how's the limestone coming?? who cares what it would be. no move is harder than .8/.9 anyways. even if it is a .10b which feels like a .10d. it's cause the people are laybacking it, and not jamming it like they should be. and as for the #4 camalot... if people are referring to the older style camalots, DO NOT bring one. you will not need it anywhere on the route. it's one of those things where there's bomber gear above/ below the spot where one might place a #4. but still, i can't ever recall seeing a place for a cam that large.
  17. w/ regards to the Pillar, it's easy. if it were in the Bluffs, it'd be rated probably no harder than 5.8! i find the hardest moves to be at the bottom getting up that stupid 3 bolt ladder, up to the tree... as for your gear, you can bring 2 #3 camalots if you are scared, or just bring one, if you're not. the pillar's neat cause it starts out at a #1 camalot, then goes to #2 then #3. then you get a huge rest which you can't see from below, then you can put #1 camalots back in, and #2... but i usually run it out from the anchor until i can place a #1 or #2, then run it out and place 1 or 2 #3's. if i didn't place the #1 at the bottom, i will save it for the top. either way, 4 pieces should suffice once you've done it a few times at the top of the actual lieback, there's that rest, then you can jam up to more rests, then a chimney. my advise is that you do not enter the piss filled chimney, but rather lieback it two moves. you'll see... and it's prolly best (for me anyways), to jam from about 15-20 ft above the anchors (there's a small little ledge on left face to rest from before shooting up the actual jamming) to the section near the top of the actual lieback, where my friend is pictured below. then once you're here, use you're last jam to place that 2nd #3, then lieback until you reach the huge jug. then you can stand in the jug and rest for 20 mins should you need to. and after this is where the pillar splits into 2 cracks (#1 or 2 camalots) and heads to more rests on that sloping ledge (refer to bottom pic). then you can chill more, then move into/ up the chimney and the top!! once you get used to the pillar, it'll take you no more than 4 or 5 mins to complete!!! as for the .10b traverse (pictured below), it's well protected. you leave the belay, move across 5.5 terrain, clip a bolt, then another, then move into a funny ramp/ corner, clip another bolt, then balance up this ramp till you get to the Left Side belay... then the stupid 3 bolt ladder to the tree (hardest part, seriously!). if you feel you need more gear in the ramp/ corner, there's a fp in there and you can place small gear. so if you need anymore beta on anything else in squamish, pm me and i can help you!!! good luck. here's a pic of the belay after the traverse. i took it while hanging off jugs halfway across the traverse on the way to the dumb bolt ladder. and here's a pic looking down as my friend seconds the Pillar. note the run out from the #3 camalot to the anchors, at the top of the lieback and if you look at that chalked ledge in the foreground, well it's halfway up the chimney. so this enables you to lieback up it instead of getting inside, w/ a ledge half way up to help w/ the lieback. from the ledge you can reach the top belay ledge... but don't slip for it's a big one (you may detach the pillar if you do)
  18. the bluffs are located like 1 min from Harrison Lake, iirc.
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