cman

i'll second the anasazi, lace-up or velcro. also a shoe like the la sport muira has a pretty good edge

i am not to familiar with mt cook but presumably there is some climbing involved? maybe carrying some weight around mt. rainier would be good training? even the weakest newbie should be able to carry at least a small pack.

1-5. The Tooth - without a doubt the most boring route in WA. there are plenty of other bad routes, but no one is claiming them as classics. not to mention all the hoardes up there every summer weekend. princely ambitions is a great climb. also why so down on bbq the pope, try using some footwork. and the beckey route is where people should be starting their alpine experience instead of the tooth.

was out at index this morning and was chatting with a sheriff (deputy?), a climber. we was friendly and when i mentioned to him the reports of people trundling he said he was unaware of the recent events. he even said he might head up there to check things out. i did not get his name but a local climber/sheriff might be helpful in making a difference.

it was nice out there on sunday. pretty warm. there were a few more people out, and yea a bunch of them were aiding. apparently i had less of a problem with it than g

go to index and suck it up. just consider it alpine training. if the wind stops you should be able to avoid frostbite.

Some great pics of in the Torres del Paine, the Belgian team of Nicolas and Olivier Favresse, Séan Villanueva and Micke Lecomte repeated the 36-pitch Riders on the Storm climbing hot flash the pics http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=4362503&a=32061098&f=

climbing hot flashes http://climbing.com/news/hotflashes/aacbarber/

was great on saturday. pretty warm and everything was dry. I just need to work on my strength. did GM and had a pretty hilarious time watching my partner get bouted on the heinous aries chimney.

a slightly different image

http://www.jacksonholenews.com/ Skier hucks world record By Angus M. Thuermer Jr. Jackson Hole Daily Salt Lake City skier Jamie Pierre claimed a world-record cliff jump at Grand Targhee Resort on Wednesday, flying 245 vertical feet off the back of Freds Mountain. Pierre, 32, said in a telephone interview from his home in Salt Lake City on Friday that he made his record-breaking jump as a vehicle to spread the Christian word. A veteran cliff jumper who had dropped 180 feet previously, Pierre said his feat was calculated and his landing spot probed for perfect snow. “It wasn’t just some yahoo stunt,” Pierre said. “I chose to do it so it would open up doors so I could witness my faith in Christianity.” Pierre said he had looked at the cliff for at least seven years before determining his ability and the conditions were right for the jump. He said observers with Teton Gravity Research, a filmmaking company that specializes in radical ski feats, measured the distance from the cornice takeoff to the landing hole with a range finder used for parachute BASE jumping to confirm the world record. Such jumps are not without peril and a spokeswoman at Grand Targhee was quick to issue a warning against attempting to duplicate or mimic Pierre’s huck. “This is nothing that an average recreational skier or snowboarder should consider doing,” Susie Barnett-Bushong said Friday. Even for elite and prepared skiers “we would never recommend anybody try this,” she said. Attempting smaller jumps than Pierre’s has killed one skier in Jackson Hole. In January, 2005 valley skier Brent “Newt” Newton, 39, died after jumping a 50-foot cliff at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort. Pierre himself said his jump was dangerous. “I’m lucky I’m still alive,” he said. “I’m lucky I didn’t get hurt.” The father of a two-month-old daughter, Pierre said he took grief from his relatives. “My wife was not impressed,” he said. His parents also took him to task, Pierre said. A Minnetonka, Minn., native who moved first to Crested Butte, Colo., and then Salt Lake City to ski, Pierre said practice, preparation and patience were key. “I waited and waited and waited,” he said of the time spent anticipating the perfect snow conditions. Asked if he ever had second doubts, he responded quickly “absolutely not.” Five photographers and three cinema shooters recorded the event, said Josh Nielsen of Teton Gravity Research. “It was a really, really heavy and intense experience for all of us,” he said. The event was managed by Pierre, he said; “We were kind of along for the ride.” Observers were solemn and quiet before and during the jump, he said, and Pierre said a prayer before taking off. He clocked four full seconds of air time, Nielsen said. Some 100 feet into the jump he said Pierre could not keep his skis under him and went upside down. He landed head first and blew a hole six feet deep in the snow. Photographer Adam Clark rushed in and dug him free, Nielsen said. “Jamie pretty much walked away with a cut lip,” he said. Pierre said he doesn’t make enough money as a skier to sustain himself. He works with his father as a custom furniture maker and also on lawn irrigation systems. He said his landing was in the perfect spot; “I hit the nail on the head,” he said. “The fact I came out unscathed and landed where I planned - faith played a role in it,” he said.

that is amazing, i can't wait to see some more pictures. i wonder how his back/knees are feeling.

generally i clip twin when on bolts and double when placing gear. darrington & static have plenty of routes that have pitches of each. or just long bolted routes that you need the 2 ropes to rap.

TCUs 1-3 and Camalots .5-3 . One of each of these and a set of nuts and a few hexes is a great rack and will get you up lots of stuff. Personally I have doubles of the above plus a new 4 & 5 camalot as well as a 0 & 00 tcu. That and a set of nuts is great rack at index, squamish, or leavy. Tieton has more irregular cracks so extra nuts & hexes & tricams are good over there (so i hear i don't have any) actually my current rack is a lot and i end up leaving behind some pieces depending on the route. start with doubles of Camalots 1 & 2 and see what you need.

i had a day like that a couple years ago on dirty face. tree bombs are awesome anyways it was a good workout. you should have been home drinking beer and watching the hawks

you should just suck it up and start buying some camalots, they are what you are going to want. tricams are usefull for alpine, lightweight, and in some types of cracks but i think they are hard to place and don't use them when i am climbing anything hard.

what an amazingly relevent post, something so rare it almost make you think it's a troll that is some good info pindude. sounds like a good weekend trip exploring some new areas. you don't make it sound like the rock quality is all that stellar, hopefully there are a few things worth the trip.

18 degrees right now, sounds good some friends are going to be there, bringing ski and climbing stuff and going with what the weather gives. sounds like the plan

Seems like this geologist had some general evidence to support his conclusions but nothing specificly related to this one rockfall incident. Really he just had a theory that may or may not have been true. certainly added water could put additional pressure on the cliff below but how could he know for certain that that is the reason the rocks fell. might it have happened regardless? hopefully this matter will not get overturned on appeal and that climbers, and everyone else, will realize that the outdoors are an uncontrolled place.

don't listen to all these jokers. if you are out there having fun that is all that matters. with all this cold weather i don't doubt the north facing stuff has stayed soft, or a least not turned to ice.

C'mon, I know there are a bunch of subie owners out there who could help me out. these stupid things cost $95 new.

I need one of the factory roof rack cross pieces for my 99 subaru outback. my used car only came with one. anyone want to help me out for some cash? thanks

it was great powder up there today. i got out near source lake to friday, fluffy and deep. get out there before it is gone. btw the base is filling in pretty well in both areas but definitely still a little low

i had plenty of good times skiing in vermont and some good storms, but seriously east coast is no match for CO, not even close. all you have to say is that there is almost no backcountry skiing in the east.

i'll have to second CC on the gorge. i did my first climbing down there this fall, cruel sister and a few others, and it is awesome, sustained pure crack. a must visit on your workshop tour. also tieton should be on your list for gear placement. i find the placements tricky because of the variable size of the cracks. if you can lead pure joy then you have completed the workshop.