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Posts posted by Sol

  1. DOE takes no prisoners!!! Glad to see folks getting after it, not an easy route...!

    On the 2nd ascent of the route Jens and I broke the headwall into 3 pitches and he onsighted from a semi hanging belay near the wide section thru the roof to the belay your using on the upper headwall. No way in hell we could have freed that upper bit without the scrubbing we did on our next mission. 

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  2. I climbed on the East Face of LIberty Bell on Wednesday and it was damn near perfect. MUCH worse down valley in Mazama. Couldn't see the wine spires for most of the day but up at the pass itself condition were good.


    Worth noting I'm an east-sider and quite use to smoke. Unless my eyes are burning and i'm coughing I dont really notice it.

  3. BOOM!


    Nice work! Always interesting to hear how folks get on with this stuff.


    A couple thoughts on dealing with the aches and pains in your body of an intense training load is like you said, to build a bigger base more gradually, but also to take 3-7 days off of training every 3-4 weeks.


    What now?



  4. You might want to check out the stroke thread dude... :crazy:


    Not likely. There are two kinds of strokes: ischemic (loss of oxygen to the brain, which is usually due to arterial vessel blockage) and hemorrhagic (bleeding). Both cause irreversible damage in proportion to the size/area affected. As a long shot, this could be a temporary vessel occlusion (blockage) that is released within minutes of stopping the descent. That would be very unlikely. Add that no permanent effects have yet been detected and it seems even more unlikely to explain this. Maybe Dr Phil can help...


    I'm a certified Neurologic RN who works with acute stroke victims and I will say that these symptoms are consistent with a Transient Ischemic Attack (TIA or Mini-stroke) which only last 1-30 minutes and then completely resolve.. Might be worth a quick Head CT or MRI to rule out any type of vascular abnormalities.

  5. Trip: Mt Stuart - FA: King Kong - Gorillas in the Mist Direct Direct


    Date: 9/9/2016


    Trip Report:

    On September 9th I completed a long-term project on the West Face Wall of Mt Stuart: King Kong, AKA Gorillas in the Mist Direct Direct AKA The Joe Puryear Memorial Route


    - 11d, 900ft.




    It took multiple attempts over many years and is my most meaningful first ascent to date. This climb was a tribute to fallen alpinist Joe Puryear who died in Tibet in 2010.






    A lengthy trip report can be found on my blog which recounts not only this ascent but the first ascents of Gorillas in The Mist, Gorillas Direct, and my many failures/attempts in between:


    Sol Wertkin Blog



  6. Based on the conditions you saw, do you think it's insane to do an Enchantments thru-hike this weekend with a group that has (a) very little backpacking experience, and (b) no snow floatation equipment? I know Aasgard Pass would very challenging and probably a no-go for such a group; but that aside, are we going to be postholing the entire way?


    YES! Bad idea!


  7. As for the pitches we climbed on the South side of Grimface, it was only 2 pitches off the "cubby hole" that is described in the Beckey guide. It is on the western aspect of the south face. There is a bunch of stuff that has been climbed in there, but it was difficult to figure out what was what.


    We climbed the Left facing corner system in the center of the photo. Moving right onto a large ledge below the upper headwall.



    We climbed the squeeze/offwidth, then branched right through a fingers sections, leading to hands and off-hands.





    Me branching out in the fingers.





    This was a fun outing from camp (moderate lichen to deal with). Worthwhile if you want to do something for a couple hours after the hike in. It is an easy scramble to the summit from the top of these pitches. I would grade it at 5.10+.